The primary motivation for planning this trip in October was the irresistible allure of witnessing the breathtaking orange hues of the iconic Chinar trees, which are synonymous with Kashmiri autumns. I deliberately chose the last week of October as I found myself fervently wishing for a miraculous snowfall, earnestly praying to experience the magical essence of Kashmir's winters. 

And as the famous saying from the movie Om Shanti Om goes- "Agar kisi cheez ko sacche dil se chaho, tu puri kayanat usse tumse milane ki koshish mein lag jati hai" (If you earnestly wish for something, the entire universe conspires to bring it to you), the morning we left for Kashmir we heard that Gulmarg had received the first snowfall of the season. Our tour operator shared breathtaking images of his surroundings, blanketed in a serene layer of fresh snowfall. The exciting part was that, upon our arrival in Srinagar that day, we were immediately heading to Gulmarg to kick-start our journey.

Similar to every visit to Kashmir, the second trip held a special place in our hearts, as this time around, we eagerly embraced the touristy activities we had skipped during our initial visit. However, our journey encountered a minor hiccup at the outset due to a decision by our tour operator.

Given that Khursheed bhai, our driver from the first trip, had provided us with exceptional service, treating us like family, proactively taking care of mom  and ensuring our comfort throughout our travels in even the most remote areas of Kashmir, it was only natural to choose him as our driver for the second trip. Despite our insistence, the tour operator seemed hesitant, expressing a desire to avoid reliance on a specific driver. After my persistent requests, he reluctantly agreed to arrange for Khursheed bhai to be our driver.

However, halfway to Srinagar, as we were boarding our connecting flight from Delhi, I received a message from the tour operator, informing us that his brother would be our driver this time, citing the need for a better 4x4 drive due to the ongoing snowfall. It became evident that this decision was an attempt to eliminate driver preference, causing an initial lack of trust that led to challenges with the new driver in the initial days of the trip.

As the journey progressed, the issues gradually resolved, and we managed to salvage the overall experience. Nevertheless, the younger driver lacked the patience and warmth that Khursheed bhai had provided, leaving us with a lingering appreciation for the unique bond we had forged with our original driver.

One positive aspect of our new driver, Adil bhai, was his street-smart nature and a more current awareness of news and events. He also shared some excellent recommendations for food experiences that turned out to be delightful. It's this reason alone that I'm inclined to harbor a forgiving sentiment towards him. So now lets delve straightaway into the food stories from our Trip # 2.

Trip 2 - October end 2022 ( Gulmarg - Pahalgam - Aru Valley - Srinagar )

Rogan Josh (Payam Fast Food & Restaurant)

The foodie in me always wishes for every dish to be memorable on my trips. This time kick started the trip with a amazing gastronomic experience which I was least expecting.

Before boarding our connecting flight to Srinagar from Delhi, we received the exciting news that Gulmarg had experienced its first snowfall the day before. This heightened our anticipation as we were scheduled to stay in Gulmarg that day. Our Air India flight touched down in Kashmir past 1 PM, and by the time we exited the airport, we were super hungry. Our driver for this trip was Adil Bhai, and with the cold damp climate outside, we sought refuge in the warmth of the heated car. We were eager to reach Gulmarg before taking a lunch break, but our hunger won over our will power and we decided to break on the way. About 30 kms from the airport, Adil Bhai made a U-turn on the Srinagar-Gulmarg highway, leading us to a roadside dhaba named Payam Fast Food and Restaurant.

As we arrived and Adil Bhai dropped us off at the parking area, he mentioned that this joint was renowned for its non-vegetarian offerings. It's worth noting for first-timers not to be confused with the vegetarian place of the same name on the opposite side of the road. If traveling from Srinagar to Gulmarg, the restaurant will be on your right, requiring a U-turn to reach. If coming from Gulmarg towards Srinagar, the restaurant will be on your left.

Externally, the place had a charming ambiance with greenery, trees, and ample parking, evident from the number of cars already parked. Inside, however, it was unpretentious—a simple arrangement of tables and chairs, and the place was fully occupied. Fortunately, as we entered, a table became available, and we were seated. Sharing the table with another couple, we quickly glanced at the menu. Though their menu had Wazwan mentioned just like any restaurant in Kashmir, but I was not in a mood for wazwan given my last experience in Gurez. So we just asked one of the waiters what can be served quickly.  He suggested rogan josh would be quick so we just ordered it without much afterthought. 

The service seemed a bit slow, causing initial concern about the food quality. However, when our Rogan Josh was served with hot roti, our reservations vanished. The fiery red hue of the Rogan Josh, a signature characteristic, was immediately noticeable. The taste surpassed expectations – slow-cooked mutton, perfectly seasoned, tender meat falling off the bone, and a medley of delightful Kashmiri spices (fennel, ginger, cardamom, etc.) creating a flavorful gravy. It was an unexpected delight, arguably one of the best Mutton Rogan Josh experiences in all my trips to Kashmir, surpassing even the one at the famous Ahdoos in Srinagar.

After savoring every bite, we were left wanting more, but the only drawback was the restaurant's pricing which was on the higher side. The Rogan Josh, which included four pieces of mutton, came to around 649 rupees. Despite not trying anything else, the place is reputed for its various Kashmiri preparations, making it a must-visit on this route, especially if you are a large group and can indulge in their full Wazwan to sample every dish.

It was a overcast and rainy day at Srinagar. Here we are exiting the airport

We could see the kangri being sold in many roadside shops

The Pherans had come out as it was a cold October day

Entrance of Payam

The patio outside the main dining hall

Crowd at Payam

Roti & Rogan Josh

Meal at a Local Home (Khursheed Bhai's home)

You might be pondering how to arrange a meal at a local's home, especially if you're a tourist. I agree it can be a challenging prospect, particularly during your first visit to the valley when you don't have any connections. However, it's not an insurmountable task. Kashmiri people are inherently friendly and hospitable, surprising you with their warmth in a matter of minutes. If you're fortunate, much like we were, your driver for the trip might extend an invitation to their home for a meal. If such an opportunity arises, seize it without hesitation; otherwise, you'll miss out on a uniquely personalized experience of sharing food with the locals in the traditional manner.

As I previously mentioned, we only learned about the driver switch once we were on the aircraft. It turns out that Khursheed bhai also received a similar surprise on his end; upon reaching the tour operator's office, he was informed that his services were not required for the trip. The original plan involved Khursheed bhai picking us up from the airport and then taking us to his home for lunch. We had even asked him to cook Kahsmiri Haak for us. For this visit to Kashmir, we had brought gifts for his family and kids, knowing we would be visiting his home. However, all our plans took an unexpected turn with the change in the driver.

Upon reaching the airport, I briefly connected with Khursheed bhai and learned his side of the story. At that point, I didn't have the heart to inquire about lunch plans, and we proceeded to meet our new driver, Adil bhai. However, after savoring the delicious Rogan Josh at Payam, I received a call from Khursheed bhai, sounding upset. Adil bhai had informed him while checking our coordinates that we had stopped at some restaurant for lunch. Khursheed bhai was quite agitated, wondering why we had chosen an alternative when the original plan was to have lunch at his home. It took a while to calm him down after assuring him that we still intended to visit him.

Now faced with a dilemma, we were already full, but Khursheed bhai was adamant about us having food at his home. The only option left was to try and eat as much as we could at his home, aiming to salvage the situation. It was at this moment that I realized how seriously Kashmiri people take their hospitality.

So then we headed straight towards Tanmarg where Khursheed bhai's home is. Tanmarg is situated at a distance of 30 min from Gulmarg. The more we progressed towards Tanmarg we could feel the mercury drop, no wonder it was snowing in Gulmarg. Upon our arrival at the Tanmarg market, Khursheed bhai awaited us, offering a warm welcome adorned with a subtle blend of both awkwardness and sadness stemming from the unexpected change in plans that prevented him from driving us this time. Nevertheless, he invited us to follow his car to his home.

Tanmarg, I soon realized, possessed its own unique beauty – sweeping undulating landscapes, tall pine trees interspersed throughout, and scattered wooden houses that resembled scenes from a foreign country. As we neared his home, Khursheed bhai directed us to disembark from the car. The remaining journey involved a brief walk across a small bridge spanning a nallah, followed by a stroll along the nallah's edge to reach a wooden gate. Descending a set of steps down a steep incline eventually led us to a two-story building, Khursheed bhai's home.

Since it was winters so the tiny kitchen garden didn't have any fresh produce growing. Khursheed bhai's wife emerged with their shy children hiding behind her, extending a warm welcome. Inside, we were ushered into their wooden sitting room adorned with wall-to-wall traditional carpeting. Soon, the rest of the household joined us in the sitting room: Khursheed bhai's mother, the matriarch of the home, along with two of his brothers, their wives, and children. The room suddenly came alive, particularly with the infectious energy of Khursheed bhai's mother, a very jovial person who spoke the best Hindi among all present. She captivated us with numerous stories, while the daughters-in-law swiftly prepared food. Despite my hope for a modest serving, I was aware that when a Kashmiri invites you into their home, the feast is bound to be anything but limited. My assumptions proved to be right - we were presented with a spread featuring fresh haak saag, fried potatoes, rajma, cauliflower with potatoes, beans subzi, steamed rice, roti, and salad. There was no escaping the hearty meal, as everyone eagerly looked at us. Although I initially questioned our capacity to eat, the delectable taste of each dish erased any doubts, and we found ourselves indulging in more, even though we were already full from the previous meal. The standout items were the haak saag, stealing the spotlight, followed closely by the cauliflower. We thanked our hosts wholeheartedly for the amazing meal and mealtime stories. The meal was followed by photos with their family and we gave gifts to the kids. After spending some more time we left, Khursheed bhai and his wife came to see us off. That day we left his home with both our tummy and hearts full. 

The hearty meal

Photo with our hosts. Khursheed bhai is the one in check jacket standing & his mother is the one with black glasses

Khursheed bhai's wife and youngest son, and his house in the background

The place where we got down from the car and walk along the nallah

The bridge over the nallah

Tanmarg market area

Dry Bhel & Kahwa (Gulmarg Phase 1 - Kongdoori)

Bhel is a is a popular Indian street food snack. Most state in India have a specific version of bhel as per their culture and preferences. The standard Bhel is made from puffed rice, sev (crispy chickpea noodles), chopped vegetables like tomatoes and onions, various chutneys (such as tamarind and mint chutney), and spices. In Bengal we have fresh chopped cucumber, fresh coconut slices, peanuts and a drizzle of mustard oil to jazz things up. But all over the country it is one of the most loved snacks. Now why am I giving this gyan on bhel? That is because on our second trip to Kashmir I found a super yummy bhel being sold at one of the most unexpected places and this story is about it.

As you already have read that we started our Trip 2 in Kashmir with Gulmarg. So after that scrumptious meal at Khursheed bhai's home we headed straight to Gulmarg. On the Tanmarg-Gulmarg route, there is a section characterized by numerous S bends, each adorned with a number of beautiful trees. Despite it being the late stages of autumn, we were delighted to encounter the mustard and red-hued leaves, presenting a spectacle reminiscent of the vibrant foliage scenes one might expect to witness in foreign countries during the autumn season. As the journey progressed and we gained height, the first hints of a winter magic started to unravel. The air became crisper, and we got the first glimpse of a pristine layer of snow blanketing the sides of the road. Approaching Gulmarg, the scenary became more dramatic- a scene straight out of a Harry potter movie - everything was covered in a soft, powdery snow blanket. The trees, once clad in evergreen foliage, now stood as enchanting silhouettes against the snowy backdrop wearing long white capes. Pockets of fog billow around us enhancing the magical aura of the surroundings. The child inside me felt ecstatic looking at this winter wonderland. As we entered Gulmarg we could see the entire meadow grassland covered with snow, a cinematic experience that can only be experience with the naked eye. That evening we just rested in our hotel still marveling at the beautiful weather. 

The next morning we reached the Gondola Station super early ( we were the second group in the line) and there was hardly a couple of families. We got ourselves a guide kind of reluctantly but later on we found him rather useful as he was carrying all our stuffs  bags, cameras, jackets etc. and we could roam around hands free. but not only that if you have a senior citizen travelling with you, then taking  a guide is a great option as they also take care of the senior citizens in navigating through the snow. We reached phase 1 and then made way to Phase 2 immediately since we knew that during winters the weather in the higher reaches were unpredictable. And if the visibility reduces they usually stop the lifts to Phase 2. So we wanted to be there bright and early and enjoy the nice sunny weather. It was a very good decision as when we stepped out at Phase 2, we were the first batch of people there who stepped into the first snow of the season. The experience was akin to stepping onto the untouched surface of the moon, leaving behind our footprints in the pristine snow. After spending a good hour and a half we made back our way to Phase 1. 

We were feeling a little cold and hungry after being at 14000 feet. As we came out of the Gondola station, we saw a couple of folks selling tea and bhel. Finding a seller selling bhel at 8500 feet was something I had never envisioned. So we had to experience it. We ordered kahwa and bhel for all three of us. I think it was one of the best food decisions we made. The Kahwa was simply out of the world. The uncle selling kahwa said everyday he will prepare kahwa at home and bring it to Phase 1. The best thing was that after we had the kahwa , uncle asked us to give back the paper cups and he put them in a bag he was carrying. he said it was to ensure no one was littering the place. We were so touched with this simple man's consciousness about the environment where as some of the tourists who are much more educated and well off than this man didn't hesitate to litter anywhere and everywhere. 

The bhel was also superb. The crunchy puffed rice with the assortment of spicy masalas was just the thing we needed in that cold. If you ever happen to be in Gulmarg Phase 1, try out both of these items.

The Kahwa Seller

Our Guide with us - he was mighty helpful for the entire day

The Bhel Seller

Scenery around from Gondola

View From Second Phase

View from Second Phase

Tanmarg to Gulmarg journey

Phase 1 covered in Snow

Phase 1 Gondola

Mutton Pakoda (Gulmarg Phase 1 - Kongdoori- Ramzana Dhaba Restaurant)

After having bhel and kahwa we had gone for a sledge ride and a snowmobile ride. The idea of riding a sledge has always captivated me, likely influenced by my readings of Archie comics, where characters would play in the snow on a sledge. Although the sledges in Gulmarg are not extravagant, the experience is still worthwhile. A modest wooden sledge, guided by a person pulling it across the snow, invites you to simply sit back and enjoy. Initially, witnessing the effort required to pull people across the snow made me hesitant about taking a ride. However, the sledge owners were persistent in coaxing us. Since not many people were opting for this activity, with most choosing snowmobile rides, we decided to go for the sledge ride, considering it a gesture to support the small business owners. The sledge dropped us off at the snow mobile counter and we got our tickets. The snow mobile ride was pretty dramatic. Since there was a good snow cover over the hill top, the snow mobiles zoomed across the snow maneuvering over uneven terrain and took us to a hilltop where we got a fabulous view of the entire Phase 1 and it also gave us some great photo opportunity. After all this adrenaline rush we felt hungry as it was already lunch time. There are quite a few shacks in Phase 1 for food. Towards the rear, there are residences with kitchens, and in front of them, there are makeshift covered areas with seating arrangements. Opting for Ramzana Dhaba Restaurant, one of the bustling spots, we found a comfortable spot where ample sunlight streamed through, providing warmth to our cold hands. We ordered a plate each of chicken chowmein and mutton pakoda. The prices were a tad expensive, Rs 300 for each dish, but given the location you cant complain much. We sat there chatting for a while and watching tourists around. We could see that slowly cloud cover was coming over the Phase 2 peak which meant the weather was getting bad at the top. 

Soon the piping hot pakodas were served. The amount was god enough to be shared between two people. Bite sized pieces of succulent mutton dipped in a batter of chickpea and spices, deep fried and then some tangy chat masala sprinkled on top - I never imagined mutton pakodas could taste so good! It was a very simple dish but packed a punch. The mutton was deliciously soft which was a big plus. It actually justified the price tag. The chicken chowmein was like any hakka chowmein but it was also good and very filling.  Overall both dishes were great at this restaurant, no wonder it was a clear crowd pleaser. We were so full after the meal that we could have fallen asleep right away if we were inside the hotel room. 

Following the delectable meal, it was time for us to make our way back. Upon reaching the gondola station for the descent, the Apharwat peak (Phase 2) had become entirely shrouded in clouds, and the temperature had noticeably dropped even at Phase 1. We bid a fond farewell to Phase 1, cherishing the memories of the fantastic and joy-filled day we had experienced.

Menu card of the restaurant

The delicious mutton pakoda

The Sledge ride

Beautiful snow all around

View from the snow mobile ride

Clouds covered entire Phase 1 & Phase 2 when we were making our way back

Shepherd's homes covered in snow - View on the way to base station

Base Station at a distance

The base station

Government Guest houses on way, on our 3rd trip to kashmir we stayed in one of these

On our way back to Hotel

That's the base station as viewed from our Hotel room

Apple Juice  & Apple Orchard Experience (On srinagar-pahalgam road, Fresh & Fine Apple juice point -first shop towards Pahalgam)

After staying in Gulmarg for 2 days we headed to Pahalgam. As we left Gulmarg there were no traces of snow anymore on the highway or towards Pahalgam. We had already told our driver to stop at an apple orchard to experience what it is like. He stopped by the first shop that comes when you are travelling from Gulmarg to Pahalgam.

The shop is owned by a mid aged couple. The lady is so fair and pretty her cheeks look like freshly picked apples! She smiled and posed with us for some photos. Most of the apple orchards have a shop where they sell apple juice and pickles and then take the tourists for a apple orchard trip.

We ordered two glasses of fresh apple juice and the lady helped us taste some of the pickles and jams available. Everything tasted unique and awesome. We opted for the apple pickle and nadru pickle. The man then led us to the orchard. It was a couple of mins walk to the back of the shop and we never expected it to be such a large orchard. We stepped into the orchard through a rickety wooden door.

The orchard framed by the breathtaking backdrop of the distant mountains, offers a captivating scene of lush greenery and bountiful apple-laden trees. Our host led us through the orchard. We could also see some brinjals and other vegetable patches at the entrance of the orchard.

As we ambled through the orchard, we could feel the air is infused with the sweet fragrance of ripe apples, which heightened the sensory experience. Approaching the heart of the orchard, we witnessed a hive of activity as locals meticulously sorted and packaged the freshly harvested apples. There were tons of apple stacked on the ground looking like small hills themselves. The process of packing unfolds with a rhythmic precision that reflects years of expertise passed down through generations. Each apple is carefully inspected for quality, size, and ripeness before being neatly packed into paper cartons.

Engaging in conversation with the locals, we gained insights into the intricacies of apple cultivation, learning about the nuances of different apple varieties, the significance of proper sorting, and the artistry involved in packaging. The locals, with their warm hospitality, shared anecdotes about the challenges and joys of orchard life, offering a glimpse into the close-knit community that thrives on this land. Our host offered us a few of the apples to taste and they were delicious.  We departed the apple orchard with a basket of freshly picked apples at a very competitive rate.

Once back in the shop we saw how the apple juice was made. The juice was absolutely divine. The mildly cool weather and the sweet juice was just a magnificent combo. We thanked the hosts for the experience and then started for our journey towards Pahalgam.

Visiting the apple orchard in Kashmir becomes not just a journey through nature's bounty but a cultural immersion, where the beauty of the landscape is intertwined with the warmth of the people and the richness of their stories.

The shop

Apples waiting to be made into juice

Juice being extracted

The smiling lady of the shop

The owner and the shop

Apples being packed

Checking out the apples

Apples being packed

Candid talks with the locals

Tons & Tons of apples being sorted everywhere

Food at Homestays

What is the best way to experience the culture of a place? I believe its through their food. And what is the best way to taste local food? Of course at a local's home! Kashmir is no exception in this matter. If you cant manage to get yourself invited to a local's home for a meal, at least book yourself in some of the beautiful and quaint homestays in the offbeat locations of Kashmir to taste some of the most rustic meals. We had one such experience at Aru Valley. Now usually people would not prefer to stay back in Aru overnight. The tour agents make you think there is nothing in the Aru valley to stop overnight. But if you are a nature lover I would highly recommend to stay the night at this beautiful tiny town of Aru. After the morning bustle of tourists from Pahalgam when everyone departs, you will practically have the whole place to yourself. Walk around this sleepy little town without any fear. Me and my mom walked around the place during the evening and even got invited to a couple of local's home to have tea. At one such local's home we saw the newly wedded daughter in law who was getting ready to visit her home post marriage. The entire household ladies came together and helped her get ready. Even I helped her apply eyeliner. So that's how from complete strangers within minutes the locals make you feel at home and part of their family. We spent a lot of time there talking to ladies of all ages, we got offered the best walnuts we had in entire Kashmir. My mother wanted a rubber band for her hair which we couldn't get in Aru, so one of the ladies gave a scrunchie to her without any money in return. After the eventful evening we headed back to our hotel which felt more like a homestay. The dinner was absolutely homely, cooked by the owner's son. No overpowering spices, just the very organic taste of the vegetables along with rice. Simple yet delicious meal on such a cold night hit all the right checkboxes. The second night at Aru was no exception, that day we also had one of the best halwas as desserts.

Day 1 Dinner - Salad, White rice, Chicken Curry, Dal and Cauliflower Potato curry

Day 2 Dinner : Bhindi Fry with onions and Potato curry

Day 2 Dinner : Fried potato and chicken curry

Day 2 Dinner - Chicken Curry

Day 2 Dinner - Halwa

Noodles with Turmeric & cooked in Mustard Oil ( Sun Rise Food Point Restaurant, Aru Valley)

You might have tasted noodles with turmeric in it but I had never tasted noodles cooked in mustard oil before. Since I am a Bengali, mustard oil is one of the most common oils used in our kitchens and yet I never had tasted any noodle cooked in mustard oil. The idea may sound a bit riveting at first but i must tell you you have to taste this to believe how good it is! It was day 2 at Aru for us, and we had spent the entire day walking in the park, walking to the beautiful river bank and just soaking in the nature as much as we could. The river point is one of the best points in Aru and the horse men would tell you that you cant travel to the point without a horse. Totally untrue. Its a 10 minutes leisurely walk from the park. If my mother can walk to the point easily anyone can. And the walk is so beautiful, you can stop by look at the hundred feet drop, and below the river gushing by. Then slowly the land flattens out and you meet the river by the bank. Small rapids are created between the big boulders on the river bed. Its an absolutely peaceful and gorgeous place where you can spend hours just sitting by and literally not doing anything. People who visit Aru for a few hours I would recommend don't just sit in the park, walk down the park and head to this river point and spend time, you will love it. The horse men give a very limited time to the tourists they bring to this point, that is why you need to spend a day in Aru to truly give time to nature and yourself and soak in the immersive experience of the place. After spending almost half a day by the river when we started coming back for the town it was past lunchtime and we were super hungry. Aru has a number of restaurants but you may or may not get everything listed on the menu. Like we asked for Trout fish but didn't get it. Though we were hungry we didn't want to eat a heavy meal. We found one restaurant just adjacent to teh car parking area which had noodles on the menu. The sitting area is pretty big and its an absolutely no frills restaurant. Basic sitting area where you need to share the long table with other tourists if its a busy time of the day. We ordered onion pakodas and veg noodles because the guy waiting the table told us it would take least amount of time. The pakodas came first and they were also fried in mustard oil and tasted good for our hungry souls. Next came the noodles. To be honest it was dripping in oil and looking at it I was doubtful how it might taste, But when we had the first bite it was definitely good and unique. Al dente noodles, carrot slices, capsicum slices, onion, Indian spices (probably coriander powder), turmeric - all cooked in mustard oil for that earthy aroma and very different from typical Chinese noodles. The taste felt so good that we emptied the plate in a matter of minutes. When you are in Aru, give it a try.

The menu outside the restaurant

The outside looks run down but there is enough seating space inside

Onion Pakoda

Noodles in Mustard Oil

Walking towards the River Point

You will see many such views while walking

A fallen tree over the river

We met an aged couple by the River Side

Opposite side of the River Bed

Rapids formed

Nun Chai and Sheermal (Chai Jai Café, Srinagar)

If you are looking for an Insta worthy cafe which also serves delicious food head over to Chai Jaai, a cute tea room on the banks of the Jhelum river and in a quiet part of Srinagar away from the hustle and bustle of dal lake. This artsy café in Srinagar overlooking the Jhelum is home to various kinds of tea. Let me also add this place is very popular among tourists and locals for its looks and vibe so best time is to head out in the late afternoon. If you are lucky, your wait time will be limited to 15-20 minutes only. But if its season time be ready to wait for an hour or more. We went around 4 PM when it was already crowded so we had to wait for around 30 minutes. I would recommend going in the off hours like post lunch when the crowd might be a little less and you will get more attention.

They have books in the waiting lounge so you wont get bored. There are many teacups and tea pots for sale which look very cute. Since the place was crowded and we were waiting for a long time, one mid aged Kashmiri couple (from a very affluent family who were visiting their hometown from Dubai) invited me and mom to share table with them, which we happily obliged as we didn't want to wait longer.  

Once we got a place to sit, we ordered noon-chai and sheermal to kick off the afternoon. Sheermal comes in two variants - sweet and savory. I wanted to taste the sweet one, however we visited Chai Jaai, they were out of the sweet one so we opted for the savory sheermal. Soon our food arrived. It was the first time mom was having noon chai and surprisingly she loved it! Me and the waiter both were equally surprised actually. I however didn't like it much as it takes time for teh palate to adjust to the unknown taste. The waiter became very enthusiastic once mom told him that she liked the chai and started giving more information about the chai and their shop. He even came and showed us the tea leaves with which noon chai is prepared. We made a mental note to ask our driver to get that particular chai for us. The Sheermal was really good, I wanted to order more but they were already out of it. So as I said before if you really want to spend time having good food go early to beat the evening crowd. The place is not very easy on the pocket - Noon chai came at Rs   285/ pot.

Tsot Bread

Nun Chai & Sheermal

Entrance of Chai Jaai dressed in Fall theme

Entrance to Chai Jaai

Entrance to Chai Jaai

Book collection in the waiting area

The waiting area in the ground floor

Beautiful collection of teapots

Beautiful Cups for sale

Paintings

Beautiful Cups for sale

Beautiful cups & teapots for sale

The various kinds of teas available at this cafe

It was night by the time we left the cafe and it was lit up beautifully

The dramatic Harissa (Chai Jai Café, Srinagar)

While enjoying the Sheermal and chai we also ordered their Harissa. I came to know about this dish from one of the many Vlogs I saw about Srinagar. This meat preparation is typically available only during the six weeks of chillai kalan (the harshest period of winter, from December 20 to the end of January), the chillai khurd (the 20-day-long period that follows) and the subsequent 10-day phase of chillai bacha that marks the end of the cold season. However if you are lucky like us you can get Harissa in October also in Chai Jai Cafe. 

Harissa, a traditional winter delicacy hailing from Kashmir, is a mutton curry enjoyed alongside the local bread known as tchot. Prepared through slow cooking, this dish features tender sheep or goat meat simmered with short-grained rice and seasoned with a blend of spices including fennel seeds, cinnamon, and cardamom. Mutton kebabs and methi maaz (lamb intestines cooked with dried fenugreek) are added and the dish is finished with a drizzle of smoking mustard oil. Rich and full of flavor, this dish is a perfect match for the chilly weather. Its roots can be traced back to Central Asia, with historical records suggesting its introduction to Kashmir during the 14th century by the Sufi saint, Mir Syed Ali Hamdani, who hailed from Persia (modern-day Iran).

Since the place was packed when we visited, so it took a lot of time for the Haleem to arrive. But when it arrived it was the moment I was eagerly looking forward to. The harissa was placed in a traditional bowl and then came the hot oil which was gently poured over the meat in the bowl. The burst of flame and the sharp sizzle on the meat was like a theatrical masterpiece (check out the video below). After the theatrics it was time to taste the famous dish. Since this was my first time trying this dish so I couldn't judge whether it was the best or not. The dish was however very heavy and hence its understood why only during winter months it is consumed. If you finish this one bowl I don't think you can eat anything else, it's that heavy. Just like the tea, the harissa also didn't come cheap. Though I don't exactly remember the cost but it was one of the most expensive dishes on the menu. But for the sake of experiencing something unique at times you got to try what you got to try. After the heavy meal at Chai Jaai, you can take a leisurely stroll by the lake side which will be like an icing on the cake.

The Harissa

Harissa with the breads

Grilled Trout with Lemon Butter ( Cafe Log Inn Pahalgam)

If you are a fish lover like me you cant miss this. This is a must must visit place when you are in Pahalgam. For folks who have never been to Pahalgam, the Pahalgam market area especially the main road with quaint shops on either side looks right out of a Hallmark Movie Town. Down that road there are these twin beautiful cottage-like restaurants flanking the entrance of Pahalgam Hotel - Trout Beat and Cafe Log Inn. Both these restaurants are owned by the same group of Pahalgam Hotel, so obviously the menu is upscale and expensive. I got to know about this restaurant as I was specifically looking for eateries serving qualiy trouts and frankly the reviews didnt lie. In both the restaurents you can enjoy the trout preparation but when we visited the Trout Beat restaurant was not operational so we went to cafe Log Inn. The interior is tastefully done, combining rustic charm with modern elegance. The soft lighting, comfortable seating, and soothing background music create a cozy and relaxed environment. They are known for their coffee, desserts and trouts. Naysayers might say this place is too expensive, but believe me the best trout I had in Kashmir was from this place. So dont think much about the right hand side of the menu, just order! We had 3 types of Trout preparation - 1. Trout in Lemon Butter Sauce (Pan fried Trout with lemon butter sauce and vegetables) 2. Trout Menuiere (pan fried trout in a butter garlic sauce with potato wedges) and 3. Almond Trout ( Shallow fried trout with almond served on a a bed of assorted vegetables). Cost for all 3 is Rs 745. The size of the trout was not too big and not too small and hence the grill on the fish was spot on every single time! I don't know how they do it, but they maintain the same standard and taste every time I have been there. Your heart will crave for more once you finish a plate.  I loved the Trout with lemon butter sauce best - the fish had piquant, soft meat and tasted heavenly. This place is always full, but all 3 times ( 2 different time of the year) we went we got the same table by the window! One thing to be aware is that they don't accept card or digital payments, only cash, so when you get the big bill you need to shell out hard cash to the last change. But don't let that deter you, go ahead and enjoy this beautiful piece of culinary delight right in the heart of Pahalgam.

First Time Visit : Look at the beautiful char on the fish, the lemon butter was absolutely a zingy combination with this

Small tables all around

Feedbacks left by guests

Feedback by Guests

The cafe is known for its cakes & desserts as well

More feast for the eyes

Entrance

From outside

From outside

Second Time Visit next day

Second time visit next day

The exterior of the restaurant exudes old world charm set in the beautiful landscape of the towering mountains around

Whole Grilled Trout and Trout Soup (Kashmiri Trout, Srinagar)

The trout in Pahalgam was so finger licking good that we were still hungover with its memories when we reached Srinagar. I was resting at the hotel when randomly I looked up for any restaurants in Srinagar which served Trout. And to my surprise and delight I found one right away! The place didn't look anywhere near to where we were staying. But I still wanted to try out their Trout as I felt obsessed with the fish by then. Our plan for the day was to visit Hazratbal Mosque, Spend time in Dargah market, then head over to the Shalimar Bagh Mughal garden, have lunch and check into our stay for the day - houseboat. We went early in the morning to the Hazratbal dargah, it was so very peaceful to walk around the place. Especially the stretch beside the lake was lovely. There are a few places inside the mosque where women are not allowed to enter but you can take in the essence of the place from outside as well. If you are not in a hurry you can spend a considerable amount of time sitting around the lawns or by the lake side. 

But we had a few things to do so next we made our way to the Dargah market. The Dargah market was a bustling place, with so many kinds of vegetables, snacks etc. available. Just to walk around the Dargah market on a busy day is a treat in itself. My target was to buy Haak saag and fortunately near the market entrance we saw a man selling fresh haak saag. We saw a local woman buying the saag so we also joined her and soon we started talking. She was curious why two lady tourist were buying saag leaving aside souvenirs. I explained to her that I really loved this saag when I had it during our trip and wanted to take some back to home. She then encouraged us to buy it and we spoke for some more time. We also checked out a few bakery shops in the aisle selling local breads. We got some kind of a poppy sprinkled biscuits from one of the shop. 

After spending some more time in the alleyways we headed to Shalimar Bagh which was on the other side of the town. Shalimar Bagh was like a surprise package. the last time we were in Kashmir we had visited Nishat Bagh and were taken away by its larger than life beauty. But Shalimar Bagh is what you can call a very traditional Mughal garden full of Mughal era architectures. To be very frank we cant compare Nishat Bagh with Shalimar Bagh. Both are very different in terms of the vibe. I loved Shalimar bagh, this was one garden where you truly feel like you are taken back in time. The autumn season was also showing in the colour of the chinar trees in the garden. The architecture inside was beautiful. After spending considerable time at the garden we now wanted to checkout the trout restaurant. When I told my driver the address he kind of grumbled. And there was a fair reason to it. Seems like the restaurant was situated in the other side of the town near the Hazratbal Dargah area from where we had come all the way to teh Mughal Garden. Nonetheless I still emphasized on going to teh restaurant so he took us. 

The restaurant was situated in the same premise form which you can take a cable car to Hari Parbat fort. There is ample car parking. The restaurant is not just a place to eat. When you enter the main building, the ground floor is like a mini museum  with many information boards put up in the walls with the information about Mughal rule, Nagar-Nagar, Fishing equipment's, in the center of teh room there is also a spinning wheel on display. You cross all of this and head towards the first floor which is beautifully and aesthetically decorated in traditional woodwork. There is two types of seating available - indoor and on the patio (partially covered). We chose to sit on the patio as it gave us a beautiful view of the cable cars going up till Makhdoom Sahib. It was past the lunch time and thee was not much crowd. But soon we understood that their service is extremely slow. No one showed up for a long time to take the orders. Finally I wanked inside and asked someone to be sent to the table. Even after that, it tool around 5-7 minutes for someone to come. We were wondering what was taking so much time since there wasn't much crowd inside. We ordered whole grilled trout and trout soup. The concept of trout soup sounded interesting. The cost at this place was sightly less compared to Cafe Log Inn. Whole grilled trout came at Rs 650 and the trout soup came at Rs 270. You can also order live or gutted trout from this place. They also have a Health Trout option for Gym Lovers where they grill a trout without oil.

The wait time for food was quite frustrating. The main problem of this place is the snail pace service. So in case you want to dine here be mentally prepared to at least sit for 30 minutes for the food to arrive after you give your order. Finally the soup arrived. It looked somewhat like an egg drop soup. The taste was quite good so I could somewhat forgive the slow service. Next came the grilled fish and the size of Trout served was huge, it even didn't fully fit the plate in which it was served! It came with a side of vegetables, mashed potato and mayo. The fish was fresh and flaky but the grill was very superficial as this was a big fish. The grill on the trout we had at Cafe Log Inn was better as it rendered with the fish with a very crispy skin. Here the fish skin was not that crispy. But nonetheless since I love having fish, I enjoyed it a lot. I was completely full by the time I could finish half of the fish. Overall Paisa wasool food. Come here with a big appetite and lot of spare time to enjoy a good meal.

Trout Soup

Whole Grilled Trout

The Menu

View from the Patio sitting area

View from Landing area

Indoor Seating

Landing Area - you can see the cable car outside

The museum like place in the ground floor

Patio Sitting Area

Stairs to go to the first floor

The Cable car office - opposite to teh restaurant in the same premise

The exterior of the restaurant, besides is the fish shop where they sell fresh Trout

Shalimar Bagh's Mughal Architecture

Chinar Leaves floating in the water

Fall Colors in Shalimar Bagh

Bengali Meal thali

This is a little anti climax to the Kashmiri food list. But if you are a Bengali and looking for a homely meal thali you can head over to Samad Darbar on the Boulevard road. Its tucked inside a small lane and you may need to take the help of google maps and teh locals to figure out the shop for the first time. We had food twice at this place during two of our trips to Kashmir.

Unfortunately I do not have a photo of this place because we were too hungry to take pics when our food arrived. And after eating so many different things throughout your tour when you see a food which resembles your home food you really do not want to wait anymore. 

We had ordered the fish thali which came with rice, daal, alu fry, one subzi and fish curry. The rohu fish was fresh and very tasty. They also have chicken and egg options in thali.

With that I am ending this super long blog about all the various food items we were fortunate enough to try in Kashmir. Hope you are linking the series, thanks for your time.