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Champaran Mutton, Ahuna Mutton


When I finish a long week of work, self doubt, frustration of dealing with people and finally when the weekend comes, I feel cooking something new in the kitchen gives me that much needed happiness and kick, something I truly love and put my heart into. Standing by the hot stove, hearing the spices sizzle, getting that perfect tadka aroma, searing the beautiful portion of meat, watching it transform into that beautiful delicious gravy which tantalizes your tastebuds, I think that's my happy spot. Basking in the joy of creating something wonderful is a weekend well done. 

Today I am trying my hand at making the super famous Champaran Mutton Or Ahuna mutton. A few days back one of my friends shared a reel about a joint in Pune serving Champaran mutton. From the time this dish became viral I had been meaning to try it out somewhere but didn't find any good restaurants around my place. When I saw that reel, I was pretty tempted to try that out but it was quite some distance from my house. And as I said at the beginning, after a grueling week of dealing with humans I was not in a mood for a long ride navigating through the terrible weekend traffic. 

But once the craving sets in, you need to do something about it, so I thought why not give it a shot at home? In addition, I also have a Bihari neighbor who has treated me time and again with her dishes both veg and non veg so I could say I had a fair enough idea about typical Bihari flavors. Thus I accepted the challenge. After all it looks like a pretty easy recipe and the key to perfection is slow cooking in an earthen pot, sounds simple and that's what I needed at the moment. The small problem was that I didn't have an ideal pot or Ahuna for cooking the meat. The earthen pot I had was flat and without a lid. But necessity is a mother of invention so I brought out my deepest kadai and decided to go for it. I did have a big doubt whether the mutton will cook without any water or not, but surprisingly the mutton was falling off the bones by the end of the hour. 

One more update, a few weeks later after I cooked this dish at home finally I had also got the chance to taste the food of the restaurant from that viral reel. Now I can say all the food that the Instagram Influencers try to influence us with are not that great. I found their Handi cooked Champaran chicken quite underwhelming. Which makes me double proud that I could nail the flavours right at my home which tasted much better than the restaurant version.

Champaran Mutton, Ahuna Mutton


Preparation Time : 20-25 minutes 
Cooking Time : 70 minutes 

Serves - 2 adults

Ingredients :

For Home Made Garam Masala
  • Coriander Seeds - 1 tbsp
  • Cumin - 1 tbsp
  • Clove - 1/2 tsp
  • Green Cardamom - 10
  • Black Cardamom - 2
  • Black Pepper - 1 tsp
  • Fennel Seeds - 1 tsp
  • Stone Flower / Dagad Phool - a small handful
  • Red Chilli whole - 3
  • Mace - 1
  • Nutmeg - 1/4 (grated)
  • Salt- a pinch
For Mutton Gravy
  • Mutton (Shoulder Portion ) - 500 Gm
  • Onion - 250 gm ( sliced)
  • Coriander Powder -  2 tsp
  • Red Chili Powder (Kashmiri) - 1/2 tsp
  • Spicy Red Chili powder - 1 tsp
  • Cumin Powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Turmeric - 1/2 tsp
  • Garam Masala (Homemade) - 1 tsp
  • Whole Red Chilis - 2
  • Bay Leaf - 1 or 2
  • Black Pepper - 6 or 7
  • Cinnamon - 1/2 inch
  • Green Cardamom - 3
  • Black Cardamom -  1
  • Fresh ginger garlic paste - 1.5 tsp
  • Green Chilli - 2
  • Fresh Coriander Leaves - small handful (finely chopped)
  • Whole Garlic - 2
  • Mustard Oil - 1/2 cup 
  • Salt - To Taste




Procedure :

1. Heat a tawa and once its medium hot, roast all the spices till fragrant stirring constantly for 3-4 minutes. Take them off into a plate and let them completely cool down. Once cooled, in a mixer grinder add all the roasted spices, add grated nutmeg and salt and blend them into a fine powder. Now take a strainer and strain the ground masala to remove any big chunks. We will need a small amount of this homemade garam masala. You can store the rest in an air tight jar.




2. Wash & drain the water from the mutton. Keep aside.
Tip : Prefer shoulder cut from the mutton as they cook faster and are more tender.

3. Heat Mustard oil in a kadai. Once its steaming hot, switch off the flame and let the oil cool down completely. 

4. Take a large mixing bowl and add the sliced onion, Kashmiri chili powder, spicy chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder, cumin powder, homemade garam masala, broken dry red chilis, cinnamon, green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, black pepper (whole), bay leaves, ginger garlic paste, slit green chilies, 2/3rd or 60% of the smoked and cooled mustard oil, salt, chopped coriander leaves and mix everything very well with your hands. Mash the onions nicely so that some of its juices come out and the onions look slightly wilted.

5. Now add the washed mutton to the bowl and rub in all the mixture nicely. Massage the mutton with your fingers so that the spice rub is well incorporated. Do this for at least 2-3 minutes. Cover and let it marinate for about an hour.

Ahuna mutton, Champaran Mutton


Ahuna / Earthern Pot Method :

6. You need to first prep the earthen pot as per instructions or soak the pot overnight in water before cooking.
Now add the remaining of the mustard oil in the pot and spread it inside the walls of the pot. 

7. Nicely spread the marinated mutton inside the pot and place two whole Garlic bulbs inside. Now close the lid and secure the edges of the lid with dough. Make a small whole in the dough for the steam to escape. Now place the pot on a gas stove on a very low flame or preferably a sigdi (hibachi) with charcoal. Cook it on the lowest flame for an hour. Every 15 minutes pick up the pot and give it a slight shake so as to evenly cook the mutton. 

Tip: Cut the bottom of the garlic bulb so that the juices are absorbed into the whole garlic.

Kadai Method :

6. Take a deep and heavy bottom Kadai or a deep pressure cooker. Heat it on low flame. Once warm add the remaining of the mustard oil and then add the marinated mutton. Add a little water to the bowl where you marinated the mutton and scrape off any leftover masala into the water. Add this water into the kadai. Now place two garlic bulbs in the mutton and cover it with a heavy lid. Start cooking on the lowest heat. 

Tip: Cut the bottom of the garlic bulb so that the juices are absorbed into the whole garlic.

7. Every 15 minutes open the lid and give the mutton a good stir, checking for any masala or mutton getting stuck to the bottom. Repeat this for a good hour or till the mutton is falling off the bones. 


Remember patience is the key to making a perfect Champaran mutton. So you have to diligently keep a watch on the mutton and keep stirring the mutton every 10-15 minutes for a uniform cook on the meat. After an hour you will see oil has separated and  floated on top. With a fork check the doneness of the mutton. If there is still some rubberiness you can keep repeating the process till the meat is done. Give everything a good stir and your are ready to serve.

Serve this with white rice or Indrayani Rice ( sticky fragrant rice found in Maharashtra). Squeeze out the buttery soft garlic cloves from the bulb and enjoy it with every bite you take. It will be as divine as it sounds!

P.S. For everyone wondering how I served the mutton while I didn't have a suitable earthen pot, the pot in which the mutton is served is very shallow so I couldn't use it for cooking but for serving purpose it ticked the right boxes! 





 


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September 28

Who doesn't love a good surprise? We all do! Especially if its related to food, I think nothing can be a better surprise than that. Well that's what happened with me a few days ago. I am part of a few food groups on FB you can kind of say a pretty active contributor on the Pune food groups. I have mentioned earlier also that while interacting on those groups I met many nice folks who shared the same love as me for food. We keep having so many interactions on a daily basis that at times I forget certain things discussed over there. 

So one day while I was busy in office work from home, I received a call. The guy on the other end said -
"Mam where exactly if your apartment located, I have come for a delivery but seems like I have come ahead?"

I quickly tried to recollect if I had any deliveries scheduled that day. Now, over the past month I have been on a binge buying food related things for my blog. So every alternate day I had some deliveries planned, thanks to amazon, that even after ordering together they would send me all the items on separate dates. The harder I tried to recollect but nothing came out as scheduled for today so after I explained to him the address I asked -

"Are you from amazon?"

"No I am from <courier company name> and there is a achaar delivery for you" 

Now hearing this I was pretty sure that the courier guy must have mistaken the address because I didn't remember ordering any achaar. Actually I am not much of an achaar person. Most of the time it would happen that I buy myself some fancy achaar just out of curiosity and then totally forget about it even if its languishing right under my eyes on the center table. Then one fine day my mom would drop in or any of my friend and draw my attention towards it. I cannot say I hate achaar, as then I wouldn't have had any fascination towards buying it, but its just that I don't feel anything amiss without it in my meals. Now coming back to the point. I was very sure there was some mistake in this but before I could ask or tell the guy had disconnected. He was nearly five minutes away from my home location so I decided to go down anyway to the entry gate and check what is this all about.

Now a days it is a real hassle going down to pick up any deliveries. You need to be armed with mask, you need to wear a different dress because you don't want your home clothes to be contaminated on the way and all that. Usually I ask our security guard to keep it and when I get time in the day I go down and collect it. But with food items you cannot do that. So half confused half curious I walked all the way to the gate practicing what I need to tell the delivery guy.

There at the gate was a well dressed guy in his middle ages in a tee and jeans talking over phone sitting on a bike. he definitely didn't look like a courier person. I couldn't locate anyone else over there who looked like a delivery guy so hesitantly I walk up to him and ask a floating question -

"Are you...?" I didn't complete it in case he is not, the acharwala, it would be very weird asking just anyone standing on the way, did you bring achaar for me?

He nodded and asked me to wait for his call to get over. He finished his call and brought out a nicely wrapped package and handed over to me. I was just about to say, "I think you have got the wrong address", but my eyes fell on the parcel and there it was written in bold my name and address. I looked at him blankly and he looked at me weirdly. I was still wondering where did the achaar come from when I turned the packet and saw the from tag. It was from a friend Dahlia from the food group! I was relived that at least now I know who sent it. The why part still remained a mystery.

Now since all this calculation was going on in my head I was a bit messed. It was a mixed feeling of surprise, joy, astonishment and bafflement. Also since the guy didn't look like a delivery person I don't know why on the earth I blurted out before I could control - " Are you from ... you know Dahlia's home?"

Maybe I was thinking I need to be extra courteous or maybe even call him up for a cup of tea  if he says he is some relative or friend of her. I feel my question made him cringe fleetingly and he gave me a real stoic expression and said - " No I am from the delivery company"

That's when I realized I have already messed it up. He must be thinking what a weird mad lady this is! I tried to salvage the goof up with a nervous smile. But he maintained his stoic expression and drove away without another word. Yes I was holding back my breath all the while, just in case I get into another foot in the mouth situation.

After coming back home I immediately dialed the number mentioned below Dahlia's name (yes I didn't have her number also till then!). Thankfully she picked up and I got to know that like 3 months ago I had randomly commented on some of her post that I want the achaar she had posted about. She remembered it and send me this surprise. It was from a local vendor who makes this achaars at home. The package had two mango jam bottles and two "pani ka achaar" ( mango pickle in water).  I was overwhelmed. Surprises are awesome but when its from a totally unexpected person then it just is super awesome. I mean I felt like I must have done something right that people I met on a social forum remembered me. These kind of gestures remains with you even if you forget other things. 

Now coming to this unique pani ka achaar. This was the first time I came to know that pickles could be made without oil, and more specifically with water! By the initial look you would never guess it doesn't have oil. Later when I started googling it I saw there are many kinds of achaar which can be made in water. The taste is really amazing too. I mean me who is not an achaar lover started having this pickle almost everyday with her meals! That goes to the length of saying how good it is. The shelf life is not as long as traditional pickles but nonetheless this tastes so good, that you really are going to finish it off in just a matter of days.



Now coming to the other surprising find. Summer has long gone and the other day I was browsing through the vegetable list of one of the delivery partners and guess what I found raw mangoes in the list. Initially I couldn't believe it, but yes right there on the screen was the picture of green mangoes sitting in a basket. 

It didn't take me any coaxing to immediately order them. And I knew just the thing I wanted to make with this raw mangoes - Mutton curry cooked unhurriedly over low flame along with big halved potatoes letting the tartness of the raw mangoes seep into the meat as they got cooked.  Quite spicy, a whole lot tangy, little sweet and bursting with flavors of dry roasted whole spices - if there is heaven in a dish this is it! In Bengali it is called Kacha Aam diye Mangsho. This recipe is kind of a legacy recipe which has been handed down the generations of Bengalis, everyone giving it their own twist. 


Marination Time : Overnight
Cooking Time : 60-65 minutes
Serving : 4 Adult

Ingredients :
  • Mutton - 1 kg
  • Coriander Seeds - 2 tsp
  • Fennel Seeds/ (Sauf) - 1 tsp
  • Green Mango - 1 ( 3/4 grated, 1/4 chopped in chunks)
  • Grated Coconut - 1/2 cup
  • Ginger - 1 inch
  • Garlic - 1 clove + 1 clove
  • Yoghurt - 100 gm
  • Onion - 2 big, dry roasted and made into paste
  • Red Chilli powder - 6 tsp *
  • Whole red chilli - 7-8
  • Potato - 2 medium, diced
  • Green chilli - 6 -7
  • Salt to taste
  • Sugar To taste
  • Ghee 
Method:

1. Marinate the mutton overnight with yoghurt.

2. In a flat skillet dry roast Coriander seeds and fennel seeds for a 3-4 minutes until fragrant on a medium flame and stirring frequently. Once fragrant transfer them to a grinder and coarsely grind it. 

Note : I used a mortar pestle to roughly grind the roasted spices.



3. Dice the onions and separate out all the layers. On the same skillet dry roast the onions (refer to image). Keep turning the sides until they get slightly charred in the edges. Similarly char the ginger, garlic and 2 dried red chilli. It should be done in about 2 to 3 minutes on medium flame.

Then finally add one 1 tsp oil to the tawa and fry the grated coconut till a nice aroma comes and it starts to lightly brown on edges.

Tip: Charring the onion has two fold benefits. It adds a distinct flavour to the curry and secondly due to charring most of the water is evaporated, hence it cooks faster. 

Note: No oil is used for onion, garlic and ginger. This is simple dry roasting method.



4. Grind the charred onion, garlic, ginger, dried red chilli and coconut to a smooth paste with a little water and mix it with the marinated mutton. This needs to be done before you start to cook. Add the red chilli powder to the mutton as well and mix well. Also add about 1 tsp of grated raw mango and fold in.

5. Take a deep bottomed pan and add ghee. Let it get heated and become fragrant. Lightly fry the diced potato for 2-3 minutes and keep aside.

6. In the same ghee, break the red chillies into two and toss into the ghee. Add one bruised garlic clove with it. Sauté it for about a minute. Now add about 1 tsp of the grated mango and saute.

Tip: If you do not purely want to use ghee, you can take half and half of ghee and refined oil. But for a robust flavour ghee is recommended.

Note: Reduce/Adjust the number of chillies as per your tolerance level



6. Add the marinated mutton along with the marinade. Stir everything in nicely. Cook it for about 5-10 minutes on medium to high flame without the lid, stirring frequently. Adjust the salt and sugar.

Note: No turmeric is added in this preparation.


7. At this stage you can lower the flame and cover and cook it on dum till mutton is cooked. Or else if you want to save time, you can transfer it all to a pressure cooker, add enough warm water to the cooker and cook it for required number of whistles. I used the cooker here.

Tip: If you are adding the potato along with the mutton like I did, cook it for one or two whistles, take out the potato and then again put the mutton on pressure and cook it for about 5-6 more whistles or as long as your mutton takes to cook.


8. Transfer the mutton and the potatoes back to the deep bottomed pan and cook on medium flame.  Add the ground masalas to it which you had prepared in step 3. give it a nice stir and let it cook for about 5 minutes covered.


9. Now add the remaining grated and chunks of mango to the curry and fold everything in. Let it cook for about 5 more minutes covered.

Tip: You can chop or dice the mangoes instead of grating as well and add to the curry.


10. Once the cooking is done, top it off with a little ghee and let it remain covered till you are ready to serve. It will be a nice sweet, sour, and salty curry which pairs well with about anything.

11. Slit some green chillies and fry them in oil and then garnish the mutton before serving. The green chilli will add a nice zing to the tangy mutton gravy.

Serve it with steamed rice or Indian flatbread.












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The super hot summers are back again. Its really sweltering outside as I write this blog. Whole of Maharashtra is facing huge water crisis this year due to poor rains last year. Regular water cuts and new rules are being put up to stop water wastage. Thankfully everyone promoted a dry Holi this year and conscious efforts have been made by every housing society to conserve water. I just wish we get some good rains this time around. Last weekend we went to Mahabaleshwar with a group of friends on bike ride. landscape was pretty dry and mornings were very hot in the hill station as well. But I tell you the evenings are a delight over there. We went to Mapro Garden and had the amazing fresh strawberry with cream. The strawberries and Mulberries at this time of the year are totally out of the world. After that we had a long long ride under the star light sky thorough the serpentine roads of Panchgani, the twin city of Mahabaleshwar where we were staying. Had the T20 match between India-Pakistan not been on that day, we would not have returned to the rooms before midnight. The added benefit was it was an off-season weekend. Panchgani was practically touristless. It was almost like having the entire hill station to ourselves :).

Since the summers have set in its been mostly light tangy recipes on the menu in our home, easy to digest and less spicy. Also fish is the only non-veg being made off late, chicken and red meat are almost off my pantry.  Aam Daal or Mango lentil is the preparation I am making most of the days. It really helps to beat the heat. Also we are guzzling down like 5-6 glasses of juices or drinks that we got from Mapro. Kokum Sherbat is a very very potent drink when the heat is on. Today we experimented with the kokum sherbat a bit and it came out pretty well. Maybe someday I will put that down in the blog.

So as I was saying I am giving myself a break from all kinds of fancy cooking now a days. But the other day when I was chatting with Ma while coming back from office she told me about a mutton recipe she came to know that day. Pepper was the main element of the dish and sounded quite simple. Now pepper, garlic and butter are the three things which when comes together can create magic. The combination works pretty well with mushroom or paneer. This recipe also had this terrific ingredients combo. I wanted to make mutton with pepper from long time ago, but the recipes I found on net were not very much to my liking somehow. You know after a point of time you just read a recipe and you know whether it will suit your palate or not. Same was happening with me. But this particular recipe I liked and decided to try out even in this terrible heat. It turned out to be very simple and quite flavorful.


Preparation Time: 30 minutes  

Cooking Time: 60 minutes

Serves: 3

Cuisine: Bengali 

Ingredients:
  • Mutton - 700 gm 
  • Curd - 150 gm
  • Fresh Garlic Paste - 1 tbsp + 1/2 tbsp
  • Fresh Coconut Paste - 2 tbsp
  • Pepper Paste - 2 tbsp + 1/2 tbsp
  • Onion - 2 Medium sliced thinly
  • Peppercorn Whole - 5-6
  • Bay Leaf - 1 + 1
  • Red Chilli Dried - 2
  • Ghee - 2 tbsp
  • Refined Oil - 4 tbsp
  • Salt & Sugar as per taste
Procedure:

1. Clean the mutton. Take enough water in a pressure cooker and pressure cook the mutton with a bayleaf and a few pieces of garlic, till tender. Drain and keep aside the stock. 

2. Soak the peppercorns for an hour in some water, that way it will be easier to make a smooth paste.  In a grinder make a fine paste of the peppercorns. Add water as required to make the texture smooth.

3. Make a paste of the fresh garlic. I would not prefer using a store bought garlic paste as they have some preservatives which alter the taste of the dish.  

4. Take the warm boiled mutton in a mixing bowl and add 100 gm beaten curd, 1 tbsp fresh garlic paste and 2 tbsp fresh pepper paste. Mix well and keep it for at least 15 minutes. The more time the merrier. But I would not recommend to keep it overnight in a fridge as it would cool down the mutton and the rest of the cooking process would take time again.

5. Chop the onion into thin slices and keep aside.

6. Make a paste of the fresh coconut pieces and 50 gm curd. Adding coconut is optional. But I liked it as it added a texture to the dish without overpowering the main flavors.



7. Take a deep bottomed wok and heat the oil and ghee. This will be a bit dry dish hence go a bit liberal on the oil otheriwse the dish may stick to the wok when you fry on high heat.

8. Once the ghee is hot enough and flavorful, add the bayleaf, whole peppercorns and dried red chillies. Add the onions after that, with a pinch of salt and sugar. Remember you need to cook the dish on high heat, taking care it doesn't get burnt.

9. As the onions get slightly pink add the marinated mutton and fry for a while till the onions are soft.

10. Add the remaining 1/2 tbsp of garlic paste. Adjust the salt and sugar levels. Fold in

11.  Add the coconut curd paste and cook till oil separates. Add a little mutton stock, enough to ensure the mutton doesn't stick to the wok. But don't put too much stock, we don't want a runny gravy.

12. Add the remaining 1/2 tbsp of pepper paste. You can leave this step if you feel the dish already has enough heat in it. 

You should be able to see the oil separated and the dish has no moisture left. Add 1/2 a spoon of pure desi ghee to enhance the flavors. Serve the dish with any kind of sweet pulav. I served it with a simple carrot and Kismis pulav.

1. Heat level of this dish is mildly high. The heat is not as spicy as from a chilly but you will feel pretty warm inside. So take care while serving it to kids

2. The recipe asked for ghee but next time around would try it out with butter alone





Before signing off wish a very happy Easter to all the readers!








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First of all wish you all a very happy new year 2014!

After a long time I am back on my blog. The month of December has been quite hectic and eventful. Office work had kept me busy in the first half and in the second half of the month I was vacationing in Kolkata. I have a lot to write about my trip back home but that will have to wait for my next blog. Anyway I am now catching up on all the things that have happened in the blogspace since last month.

Of late I have been very engrossed in Google plus posting recipes, reading a plethora of recipes from far and wide, making new acquaintances who are themselves super innovative chefs and realizing that G+ is the in thing if you really want to reach out to meaningful people with a common interest. I never knew Tetor Macher Jhol - the very unassuming fare from a Bengali household could stir up so many intriguing comments especially from people living on the other part of the world. Their genuineness is so touching when they ask questions about the recipe that I feel humbled and happy at the same time. After I posted my Dak-bungalow Chicken Curry recipe over there a fellow blogger wanted me to share more recipes from the time of the Raj since his wife had forefathers who served the British east India Company.

Frankly speaking I have only heard and read about the old times when the foundation of modern India was being laid and a revolution was taking place in the Kitchens of this country - mélange of Indian flavors and British tastes. Thus was born a hybrid cuisine the Anglo-Indian cuisine, probably the first example of fusion food in the world. This cuisine is mostly prepared using English spices such as Pepper, bay leaves, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, etc. Indian condiments such as chilies, cumin, coriander, turmeric, ginger, garlic etc, are also added in moderation. Yogurt and milk are also used in certain preparations to offset extra pungency. People of my generations were not fortunate enough to taste the original recipes from the time of Raj but what we have now is somewhat the adapted version of the original ones. Adapted according to the regions and palate of the different states of India. I will still try to recreate traces of the culinary history associated with the recipe I am going to write about today.

The Railways were a way of life during the days of the British Raj. Travelling First class was an experience in itself. The Burma teak cabins , plush interiors, classic railway cuisine, the servers in perfectly starched uniforms serving lunch to the sahibs – everything about a train journey was nothing short of collecting a bagful of memories, each unique from the other. Bengal,  the first stronghold of British rule, was heavily influenced by English cuisine. Many British families in India hired local cooks, and through them discovered local foods. The spiciness of foods had to be toned down or modified to suit the palates of the 'memsahibs'. Very distinct influence is seen in the desserts, some of which were created specifically to satisfy the British – most notably the very popular sweet LeÄ‘ikeni named after the first Vicereine Lady Canning. The other most popular remnants of that era is the Railway Mutton curry, which earned its name because it was served on the first class dining carriages.

As a kid I remember travelling to Darjelling in First class compartment with the entire gamut of relatives. My Mashi (aunt) used to stay in Darjelling with her family at that time as Mesho was posted there as a doctor. My Grandpa served as a doctor in the Railways for which he got First class passes. This first class was nothing like that of the British era but was definitely different and plush from the present day first class coaches. There were no aisle seats and there was a sliding door for each coup which ensured complete privacy. The first travel happened when I was some 5 year old and something really funny happened. We were some 10 odd people travelling together including  couple of kids so it goes without saying that there was never a dull moment. I remember we had got home cooked food in the big 3 tier tiffin carriers. At dinner time a newspaper would be spread out and everyone would be handed out steel plates on which the food which would consist of Daal, rice, a vegetable and a sweet would be served.  Post dinner we went to bed and were lulled to sleep by the swaying of the moving train.  The next morning I was woken up by mom. Reluctantly I followed her to the bathroom to brush. After cleaning me up she told me to walk down to our coupe which was quite near to the bathroom while she would finish brushing. Super confidently I started walking back, the third coup from bathroom was supposed to be ours. I entered the third and saw that everyone was asleep head to toe covered in quilt. Even my mom’s berth was occupied. When I left to brush I clearly remembered that granny and grandpa were already up, my other mashis (aunts) were up and preparing the beds and the kids were being woken up by their moms. How come within ten minutes everyone went back to sleep? Suspiciously I called out one of my Mashi’s name, the brush held firmly in my hands. No one answered. I was about to call once more when I felt someone tugging at my hands. I looked back to see the same Mashi whose name I was calling. She asked me what I was doing there in someone else’s coup. I realized the mix up and thanked my stars that no one woke up. Later on this story was reiterated a number of times to everyone adding all sorts of spice and tart. Poor me!

Train journeys had always been memorable for me, even the local train ones. The array of snacks that were sold during the journey was something I always looked forward to. Jhalmuri  with a slice of Coconut(puffed rice medley), veg-cutlet, mochar-chop (banana flower cutlet), chana chat (spicy chickpea) , ghughni,  tok jhal misti toffees (sweet & tart candies), chine badam beetnun diye (peanuts with black salt), seddho dim (boiled eggs), shal patae mora tatshaas (fruit of Palmyra Palm) etc. Not only the food but the chit-chat of the passengers, folk songs sung by the beggars, the passing paddy fields and different character of each station made up for a colorful experience. Before I digress more talking about train journeys coming back to the dish I am supposed to talk about.

Railway Mutton curry is a toned down version of the classic mutton curry (Manghor Jhol), with coconut milk diluting the spices and served with rice, bread or dinner rolls. Vinegar was added to the mix of mutton and potatoes to increase the durability of the meat during long journeys. The curry was not too spicy keeping in mind the delicate palates of the British. Though the dish originated in the colonial times it continued to be served in railway refreshment rooms and on long distance trains till much later.

When I searched the net I found quite a few variations of the recipe which is a clear indication of the train routes on which they were served. Coconut milk, tamarind and curry leaves were used in the recipe followed in Southern Railways. Whereas the northern and eastern railways adapted a recipe minus these. Sandeepa’s recipe (Bong Mom Cookbook) adapted from Pritha Sen’s recipe was the one I liked among all the others because of the presence of fennel seeds. Mutton and fennel seeds go hand in hand and I love the flavor a lot.

So here’s the recipe.
Preparation Time: 5 minutes 
Serves : 2

Ingredients :
For Marinade:
  • Mutton - 1 Kg
  • Ginger-Garlic Paste - 3 tsp
  • Mustard Oil - 1 tsp
  • Whisked Curd - 1/2 cup
  • Red Chilli Powder - 2 tsp
  • Turmeric Powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Salt
 For Paste:
  • Sauf/ Fennel Seed - 1 tsp
  • Coriander Powder - 1 tsp
  • Cumin Powder - 1 tsp
  • Black Peppercorn - 5-6
  • Dried Red Chilli  Whole- 7-8 
  • Garlic clove - 5
  • Ginger - 2" inch piece
  • Red chilli powder - 2 tsp
  • Sugar - As per taste
For Gravy
  • Onion - 2 large sliced finely
  • Tomato (pureed) - 1 big
  • Potato - 2 large, each halved
  • Curd - 1/2 cup whisked
  • Cardamom - 4
  • Cinnamon -  2" stick
  • Clove - 4 cloves
  • Nutmeg - 1/4 th tsp
  • Bay Leaf - 2
  • Ginger -Garlic Paste - 1 1/2 tsp
  • Warm Water - As required
  • Mustard Oil - 4 tbsp
  • Sugar & Salt - As per taste
Method:
1. Clean the mutton and marinate overnight with  the ingredients mentioned under marinade.

2. Heat a wok and add fennel seeds, peppercorn, dried red chillies. Stir for a few seconds then add the cumin and coriander powder. Roast till fragrant. 

3. Add the roasted spices mentioned above along with garlic clove, chopped ginger, red chilli powder and 1 tsp Mustard oil in the blender and blend into a fine paste. Keep aside.

4. Now fry the halved potatoes till edges turn a slight hint of brown. Keep aside.

5. Heat a wok and add 3 tbsp of mustard oil, when oil is steaming toss in the roughly ground whole garam masalas and bay leaf. Once the spices are fragrant add the ginger -garlic paste. Fry for a couple of minutes till raw smell is gone.

6. Now add the chopped onions and add a pinch of salt and sugar. Fry the onions till they start turning brown.

7. Add the pureed tomato and cook till it becomes a consistent mixture and raw smell is gone.

8. Lower the heat and add the whisked curd . Slowly stir it into the mixture. Cook for a couple of minutes.

9. Add the marinated mutton pieces into the mixture now and fold in.Cook on high flame for 3-4 minutes stirring continuously so that it does not stick to the wok. The pink colour of the mutton will turn a shade of light brown. Lower the heat and let the mutton slow cook.

10. Keep cooking the mutton and stirring occasionally till the mutton begins to release oil. It will require a patient cooking of nearly half and hour. If this process is done well the taste of the gravy will be good.

11. At this stage add the masala paste prepared separately and fold in with the mutton. Cook for 5 minutes.

12. Add the fried potatoes to the wok now.

13. Transfer all the contents of the wok into a pressure cooker and add required amount of warm water (water will be according to the water required for mutton to get properly cooked and get the desired amount of gravy). Close the lid and cook for 2 whistles on medium flame. (remember the number of whistles depend on the quality of mutton you have, sometimes it requires more than 2 whistles to cook the meat properly).

14. Once you turn off the heat after 2 whistles, let it sit for sometime till the pressure dies down. Open the lid and give everything a good stir. Add a spoon of ghee(clarified butter - optional) and 1/2 tsp of powdered garam masala. Close the lid and let the flavours seep into the meat properly for 30 minutes.

I served it with traditional Bengali pulao. You can also serve it with any kind of Indian bread (Roti/Naan etc).

Have a great year ahead and lots of mouthwatering foods!



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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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