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Curries & Stories

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Hilsa Fry, Ilish Mach Bhaja

If there's one dish that can make any Bengali's heart skip a beat, it's Ilish Mach Bhaja. The mere mention of it evokes a wave of nostalgia, reminding us of home, family gatherings, and the monsoon rains tapping against the windows. Ilish, or Hilsa, isn't just a fish; it's a sentiment deeply ingrained in Bengali culture. And when it comes to Ilish Mach Bhaja, it's more than just a dish—it's an experience.

Growing up, the first heavy downpour of the season was always met with a buzz of excitement at home. The rain meant that the Ilish season was officially upon us, and soon the markets would be brimming with fresh, glistening Hilsa. The weekend morning would start with a trip to the local fish market, where my father would haggle with the fishmonger to get the freshest Ilish and other fishes.

Not every Hilsa makes the cut for that perfect Ilish Mach Bhaja. There are certain nuances that every Bengali knows, passed down through stories and experiences. A good Hilsa has to be just the right size—not too small, not too big, but just enough to give you those luscious cuts with that perfect marbling of fat. Yes, fat—because a good Hilsa is oily, and that’s where half the flavor comes from.

As a kid, I would sit around the kitchen, impatiently waiting for that moment when the first piece of Ilish would hit the hot mustard oil in the pan. The aroma would fill the entire house, making it impossible to wait until lunch. 


Hilsa Fry, Ilish Mach Bhaja


The Art of Frying Ilish

Making Ilish Mach Bhaja isn't just about tossing the fish into the pan and hoping for the best. There's a certain finesse to it, a delicate balance that needs to be achieved to get that perfect golden crust while keeping the fish tender and juicy inside.

First, the fish is marinated lightly with turmeric and salt, allowing the natural flavors to shine through. Mustard oil is a must here—no other oil can give you that sharp, pungent flavor that complements the richness of the Ilish. The oil is heated until it's just shy of smoking, and then the fish is gently lowered into the pan. The key is to resist the urge to flip the fish too soon. Let it develop that beautiful crust before turning it over. And once it's done, you let it rest for a minute, allowing the oil to drain off, and then you're ready to dig in.

Hilsa Fry, Ilish Mach Bhaja
View from my home in rains


Rains, Ilish & a Sense of Comfort

There’s something almost poetic about enjoying Ilish Mach Bhaja on a rainy day. The pitter-patter of raindrops, the cool breeze that carries the smell of wet earth, and the sizzle of Hilsa frying in mustard oil—all these elements come together to create an experience that’s nothing short of magical.

Rainy days are also when Ilish tastes the best. Some say it’s the freshness of the fish, others say it’s the chill in the air, but I believe it’s the nostalgia. It’s the memories of sitting by the window, watching the rain, while the aroma of frying Ilish wafts through the house. It’s the stories shared around the dining table, the laughter, the love, and the sense of togetherness that make the experience complete.

For many Bengalis, the monsoon isn’t just a season—it’s a ritual, and at the heart of that ritual is Ilish Mach Bhaja. It’s comfort food in its truest sense, a dish that warms you from the inside out. The crispy, golden exterior of the fish contrasts beautifully with the soft, delicate flesh inside, creating a texture that’s as comforting as it is satisfying.

On those rainy afternoons, when the world outside is a blur of grey and green, there’s nothing better than sitting down to a plate of steaming hot rice, a piece of perfectly fried Ilish, and maybe a drizzle of ghee. Add a side of mashed potatoes or some mustard greens, and you’ve got yourself a meal that’s simple yet profoundly fulfilling.

The First Bite: A Symphony of Flavors

There’s something almost magical about the first bite of Ilish Mach Bhaja. The crisp exterior gives way to the tender, flaky flesh inside. The flavor is rich, with a slight bitterness from the mustard oil that perfectly complements the sweetness of the fish. And then there’s the subtle heat from the turmeric, which rounds out the dish beautifully.

Pair it with some hot, steaming rice and a drizzle of ghee, and you have a meal that’s nothing short of divine. It's the kind of food that makes you close your eyes and sigh with contentment.

For me, Ilish Mach Bhaja is more than just a dish. It's a connection to my roots, a bond with my past. Every time I make it, I’m transported back to those lazy Sunday afternoons, the sound of the rain outside, and the warmth of my family around the dining table. It’s a dish that tells a story—a story of tradition, of love, and of the simple joys of life.

So, if you ever get the chance to taste Ilish Mach Bhaja, take a moment to savor it—not just the flavors, but the history and the emotions that come with it. Trust me, it’s an experience you won’t forget.

Hilsa Fry, Ilish Mach Bhaja


The art of slowing down with Ilish

In a world that’s always rushing, the ritual of preparing and enjoying Ilish Mach Bhaja during the monsoon is a reminder to slow down. It’s about taking the time to appreciate the little things—the smell of rain, the taste of fresh fish, the company of loved ones. It’s about celebrating the moment, the season, and the traditions that make us who we are.

So the next time it rains, and you find yourself craving something special, think of Ilish Mach Bhaja. Whether you’re a seasoned Ilish lover or someone trying it for the first time, let the rain and the fish create a moment of joy and connection, just as they have for countless generations before. Because, after all, there’s nothing quite like the taste of Ilish on a rainy day.

Preparation Time : 5 minutes
Marination Time : 30 minutes
Cooking Time : 5-8 minutes 

Serves - 1 or 2 adults

Ingredients :

  • Hilsa Fish pieces (Peti) - 2
  • Turmeric - 1/2 tsp
  • Green Chilis ( as side) - 2
  • Mustard Oil - 1/4 cup
  • Salt as per taste
Procedure :
  1. Cut and wash the hilsa pieces, pat dry
  2. Now marinate the fish with salt, turmeric powder and 1 tsp mustard oil for about 30 minutes.
  3. Heat mustard oil in a pan, when the oil is smoking carefully slide in the marinated fish pieces. Fry evenly till the edges turn slightly brown and crispy. Flip over the fish and repeat. 
  4. Don't throw away the leftover oil in the pan, because that oil has a lot of flavor from the fish. You can pour it over steamed rice and have it along with the fish for the best flavors. 
Serve it with steamed rice, the leftover mustard oil from frying the hilsa fish, some fried green chilis, mash everything and enjoy. That's the most traditional way of enjoying a hilsa fish fry. You can also pair it with mashed potato and dal if you want.

Hilsa Fry, Ilish Mach Bhaja


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Champaran Mutton, Ahuna Mutton


When I finish a long week of work, self doubt, frustration of dealing with people and finally when the weekend comes, I feel cooking something new in the kitchen gives me that much needed happiness and kick, something I truly love and put my heart into. Standing by the hot stove, hearing the spices sizzle, getting that perfect tadka aroma, searing the beautiful portion of meat, watching it transform into that beautiful delicious gravy which tantalizes your tastebuds, I think that's my happy spot. Basking in the joy of creating something wonderful is a weekend well done. 

Today I am trying my hand at making the super famous Champaran Mutton Or Ahuna mutton. A few days back one of my friends shared a reel about a joint in Pune serving Champaran mutton. From the time this dish became viral I had been meaning to try it out somewhere but didn't find any good restaurants around my place. When I saw that reel, I was pretty tempted to try that out but it was quite some distance from my house. And as I said at the beginning, after a grueling week of dealing with humans I was not in a mood for a long ride navigating through the terrible weekend traffic. 

But once the craving sets in, you need to do something about it, so I thought why not give it a shot at home? In addition, I also have a Bihari neighbor who has treated me time and again with her dishes both veg and non veg so I could say I had a fair enough idea about typical Bihari flavors. Thus I accepted the challenge. After all it looks like a pretty easy recipe and the key to perfection is slow cooking in an earthen pot, sounds simple and that's what I needed at the moment. The small problem was that I didn't have an ideal pot or Ahuna for cooking the meat. The earthen pot I had was flat and without a lid. But necessity is a mother of invention so I brought out my deepest kadai and decided to go for it. I did have a big doubt whether the mutton will cook without any water or not, but surprisingly the mutton was falling off the bones by the end of the hour. 

One more update, a few weeks later after I cooked this dish at home finally I had also got the chance to taste the food of the restaurant from that viral reel. Now I can say all the food that the Instagram Influencers try to influence us with are not that great. I found their Handi cooked Champaran chicken quite underwhelming. Which makes me double proud that I could nail the flavours right at my home which tasted much better than the restaurant version.

Champaran Mutton, Ahuna Mutton


Preparation Time : 20-25 minutes 
Cooking Time : 70 minutes 

Serves - 2 adults

Ingredients :

For Home Made Garam Masala
  • Coriander Seeds - 1 tbsp
  • Cumin - 1 tbsp
  • Clove - 1/2 tsp
  • Green Cardamom - 10
  • Black Cardamom - 2
  • Black Pepper - 1 tsp
  • Fennel Seeds - 1 tsp
  • Stone Flower / Dagad Phool - a small handful
  • Red Chilli whole - 3
  • Mace - 1
  • Nutmeg - 1/4 (grated)
  • Salt- a pinch
For Mutton Gravy
  • Mutton (Shoulder Portion ) - 500 Gm
  • Onion - 250 gm ( sliced)
  • Coriander Powder -  2 tsp
  • Red Chili Powder (Kashmiri) - 1/2 tsp
  • Spicy Red Chili powder - 1 tsp
  • Cumin Powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Turmeric - 1/2 tsp
  • Garam Masala (Homemade) - 1 tsp
  • Whole Red Chilis - 2
  • Bay Leaf - 1 or 2
  • Black Pepper - 6 or 7
  • Cinnamon - 1/2 inch
  • Green Cardamom - 3
  • Black Cardamom -  1
  • Fresh ginger garlic paste - 1.5 tsp
  • Green Chilli - 2
  • Fresh Coriander Leaves - small handful (finely chopped)
  • Whole Garlic - 2
  • Mustard Oil - 1/2 cup 
  • Salt - To Taste




Procedure :

1. Heat a tawa and once its medium hot, roast all the spices till fragrant stirring constantly for 3-4 minutes. Take them off into a plate and let them completely cool down. Once cooled, in a mixer grinder add all the roasted spices, add grated nutmeg and salt and blend them into a fine powder. Now take a strainer and strain the ground masala to remove any big chunks. We will need a small amount of this homemade garam masala. You can store the rest in an air tight jar.




2. Wash & drain the water from the mutton. Keep aside.
Tip : Prefer shoulder cut from the mutton as they cook faster and are more tender.

3. Heat Mustard oil in a kadai. Once its steaming hot, switch off the flame and let the oil cool down completely. 

4. Take a large mixing bowl and add the sliced onion, Kashmiri chili powder, spicy chilli powder, turmeric, coriander powder, cumin powder, homemade garam masala, broken dry red chilis, cinnamon, green cardamom, black cardamom, cloves, black pepper (whole), bay leaves, ginger garlic paste, slit green chilies, 2/3rd or 60% of the smoked and cooled mustard oil, salt, chopped coriander leaves and mix everything very well with your hands. Mash the onions nicely so that some of its juices come out and the onions look slightly wilted.

5. Now add the washed mutton to the bowl and rub in all the mixture nicely. Massage the mutton with your fingers so that the spice rub is well incorporated. Do this for at least 2-3 minutes. Cover and let it marinate for about an hour.

Ahuna mutton, Champaran Mutton


Ahuna / Earthern Pot Method :

6. You need to first prep the earthen pot as per instructions or soak the pot overnight in water before cooking.
Now add the remaining of the mustard oil in the pot and spread it inside the walls of the pot. 

7. Nicely spread the marinated mutton inside the pot and place two whole Garlic bulbs inside. Now close the lid and secure the edges of the lid with dough. Make a small whole in the dough for the steam to escape. Now place the pot on a gas stove on a very low flame or preferably a sigdi (hibachi) with charcoal. Cook it on the lowest flame for an hour. Every 15 minutes pick up the pot and give it a slight shake so as to evenly cook the mutton. 

Tip: Cut the bottom of the garlic bulb so that the juices are absorbed into the whole garlic.

Kadai Method :

6. Take a deep and heavy bottom Kadai or a deep pressure cooker. Heat it on low flame. Once warm add the remaining of the mustard oil and then add the marinated mutton. Add a little water to the bowl where you marinated the mutton and scrape off any leftover masala into the water. Add this water into the kadai. Now place two garlic bulbs in the mutton and cover it with a heavy lid. Start cooking on the lowest heat. 

Tip: Cut the bottom of the garlic bulb so that the juices are absorbed into the whole garlic.

7. Every 15 minutes open the lid and give the mutton a good stir, checking for any masala or mutton getting stuck to the bottom. Repeat this for a good hour or till the mutton is falling off the bones. 


Remember patience is the key to making a perfect Champaran mutton. So you have to diligently keep a watch on the mutton and keep stirring the mutton every 10-15 minutes for a uniform cook on the meat. After an hour you will see oil has separated and  floated on top. With a fork check the doneness of the mutton. If there is still some rubberiness you can keep repeating the process till the meat is done. Give everything a good stir and your are ready to serve.

Serve this with white rice or Indrayani Rice ( sticky fragrant rice found in Maharashtra). Squeeze out the buttery soft garlic cloves from the bulb and enjoy it with every bite you take. It will be as divine as it sounds!

P.S. For everyone wondering how I served the mutton while I didn't have a suitable earthen pot, the pot in which the mutton is served is very shallow so I couldn't use it for cooking but for serving purpose it ticked the right boxes! 





 


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Mashed Potato


Last week there was a customer visiting one of our Pune offices from US. I was asked to anchor a few presentations for the customer for which I went to office - first time after November 14 last year. That was the fateful week when I got diagnosed with Sciatica followed by a very painful period of 3 months to recover. I think I will write about my Sciatica recovery journey in details so that it may help anyone looking for some light in the dark tunnel. But that's for a different blog. Let's come back to the present, when I was asked to visit office for the customer visit. The visit went really well as the customer was one of the most kindest and delightful personality, almost felt like he was just like Santa Claus by his personality and looks. So after wrapping up our presentation it was time for lunch. For all such corporate lunch events, usually our company has tie ups with various five star hotels who provide the food based on customer preference of cuisine. This time the food was from Sheraton grand, it was a complete Western platter - Chicken Steak in brown gravy, mashed potato, fish schnitzel and stir fried vegetable as salad. Looking at the brand name of Sheraton, my expectations rose and I was salivating at the thought of having a succulent piece of well seasoned chicken followed by some dreamy creamy mashed potato. In case if you did not know, I just love a good mashed potato, and this was the first time I was about to try one from a five star kitchen. It took just a bite of the mashed potato to abruptly crash my billowing expectations. The mashed potato was bland, grainy, dry and seemed like someone had just literally mashed a boiled potato and served. No where, I repeat not where it resembled a traditional mashed potato, which is supposed to be fluffy, creamy, melt in mouth gorgeous. The Chicken steak  lacked seasoning and the gravy was just a lumpy mass. The icing was the fish schnitzel which had a very thin layer of fish and had become cold by the time it reached the table. The customer in fact asked me what was he eating, might be because he did not identify any of the dishes which were supposed to be made as per his palate. No offence to Sheraton Grand, but I felt mortified in front of my customer. At the same time I also realized the mashed potato I make at home is hundred times more delicious and authentic than the one served by the five star hotel. 

So it was the obvious decision to share my version of mashed potato recipe with all of you. Mashed potato is like a Bengali Aloo seddho on a sedative! Hence I strongly feel all Bengalis would any day love a mean potato mash. This mashed potato can be enjoyed on its own or you may also make a traditional brown gravy to serve along. I would definitely recommend making the gravy as it just compliments the mashed potato and levels it up deliciously.

Preparation Time : 15 minutes 
Cooking Time : 40 minutes 

Serves - 2 adults

Ingredients :

For Mashed Potato
  • Potato - 2 big (skin on)
  • Water - for boiling
  • Milk - 1/2 cup
  • Fresh Cream - 3 tbsp
  • Butter - 2 tsp
  • Fresh Garlic - 3 cloves 
  • Fresh ground pepper powder - 1 tsp
  • Salt - As per taste
For Gravy
  • Chicken Stock - 3 cups
  • Chicken bullion cube - 1
  • All purpose flour - 2 tsp
  • Milk - 1/4 cup
  • Butter - 3 tsp
  • Thyme - 1 sprig 
  • Salt - To Taste

Mashed potato with gravy
Mashed potato topped with brown gravy


Procedure - Mashed Potato:

1. Wash and rinse the potato, making sure there is no dirt on the potato skin.  Make deep gashes on the potato to ensure it is cooked through. Now take enough water in a pressure cooker and add salt. Boil the potatoes in a pressure cooker for 3-4 whistles with skin on. Adjust the whistles as per the quality of the potato.

Tip: Instead of boiling the potatoes with skin on, you can peel off teh skin, chop the potatoes in small pieces and boil in water as well. But boiling the potato with skin on ensures the potato does not get watery when mashed. 

2. Once the potato is cooked drain the water and peel off the skin. This needs to be done when the potato is still hot so be careful.

3. Using a masher mash the peeled potatoes into a uniform texture. Use your fingers to feel any lumps in the mashed potato. If you still feel lumps then best way is to sieve the mashed potato through a steel strainer, pressing hard to ensure all lumps are broken down and the final mashed texture is lump free. Mash till you get a smooth, fluffy and light consistency. Do not mash too much as this will break down the starches more and make for a gummy texture.

4. While the potatoes are still hot you need to add the butter. If either the mashed potato or the butter is cold then you can put the mashed potato in the microwave for 20 seconds and then add the butter. This will help the butter to melt evenly. Mix well.

5. Now finely grate the garlic cloves and make it into a paste. Add to the mashed potato and mix well.

6.  Now fold in the fresh cream and milk mixed together. 
Tip: warm the fresh cream and milk a bit before adding to the mashed potato for best results. You can always add more butter, warm milk , fresh cream to get your desired consistency.

7. When everything is well integrated and the texture is silky and smooth, add the seasoning and the pepper powder.
Tip: The salt balance is the game changer in this recipe. You need to add the right amount of salt as per your taste to avoid it being bland.

Serving Tips: Mashed potatoes are served warm. So you can make mashed potatoes in advance and while serving warm it in the oven and add a few teaspoon of milk while you are reheating, then give it a nice stir and serve. You can top it off with some fresh herbs, pepper powder or some butter. 

Procedure - Mashed Potato 

1. Take a microwave safe mixing bowl and break the chicken bullion cube. Add milk and the chicken stock to this and give it a nice stir. Pop it into the microwave for about 30 seconds making sure the chicken bullion cube is dissolved well. 

Check the seasoning in this mixture, sometimes the chicken bullion cube contains a lot of salt, so make sure you check the seasoning and adjust accordingly.

2. Now melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour, thyme and whisk together till it turns golden brown.

3. Now add the stock mixture into teh saucepan and give it a good stir. Add pepper powder and stir constantly till the mixture comes to a boil.

4. Reduce heat and continue to stir until thickened. You will see they are slowly turning a shade of light brown. That's your cue to take it off the heat. Do a final taste test and you are good to go.

Serve it over your warm mashed potatoes, steamed chicken or rice and enjoy!

Additional Tip : If you have some leftover gravy then just fry some chicken cubes with salt and pepper and then pour over this gravy, cook for 5 minutes and you have a quick chicken gravy good to go with rice!



 




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Here's just wishing all my dear readers a very happy Makar Sankranti, Pongal, Bihu, Lohri! Not a recipe post today, but I ordered these very delicious Puran Polis from one of the home food startups called Mamas Kitchen. Once a year at least on Sankranti I love to have Puran Polis just like Maharashtrians. And these turned out to be really amazing - soft, sweet, delicious with a deep aroma of ghee. I will just add a few more photos to this post and take a leave.









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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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