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Police Bazar

Continued from Part 1..

Umiam Lake

After the boat ride we took a stroll in the park surrounding the lake. The panoramic view of the East Khasi Hills all around the lake is gorgeous. I think if this looked so surreal post rains, then during the rains this place would be a visual treat for sure.

We realized that we had arrived in Meghalaya in the wedding season. Reason being wherever we went around the state we saw pre-wedding shoots happening. The first one of many of those we witnessed in this park itself. There was a whole crew running up and down with the bride and groom to-be helping them change, pose, shoot etc. Little did we know that we would encounter such entourage almost everywhere we went. This only proves that Meghalaya has also become a very popular choice for pre-wedding shoots among youngsters because of its scenic beauty.

After strolling a bit we sat down on the manicured lawn. Once you sit down , mesmerizing view of the lake makes you feel like staring at it for hours. Even though the sun was quite strong, the breeze from the lake made it enjoyable to sit and relax. There were a lot of families and tourist groups visiting the park. We even saw a good number of locals in the park. 

Umiam Lake





Tiny bridge that leads to the watch tower

A pretty leaf somewhere in the park



 

After we had spent a considerable amount of time sitting we decided to head back. Once back to the car I noticed some kind of a watch tower peeking form behind the canopy of trees and bushes. It looked pretty so I drew the attention of my cousin towards it. He was equally curious. So we decided to look for it next. leaving behind the baffled team of elders me and my cousin darted towards the park looking for a path to reach the watchtower.

We started with a dead end but eventually found the way. It was right along the shoreline. There was a tiny bridge you need to cross which leads the way towards the watchtower. We were pretty pleased with ourselves when we finally spotted the watchtower in the distance. We were kind of sprinting to save time, so I had to catch my breath a couple of times. But the air was cooler in this part as it had a dense foliage cover around. You might even wonder whether it is a legit way to go but after like 2-3 minutes of brisk walk you would spot the watch tower.

Once we were at the tower we saw a lady and her mother climbing down the stairs of the watchtower. I was quite surprised as we caught the mother trying to scale down a uneven rocky step with the help of her daughter. And yet they didn't look hassled at all. The old lady was all smiles seeing us and we had a quick chat with them. That encouraged me, because all I could see was an uneven rocky step that led to the first steps of the watch tower. If she can do it without apprehension so can I ! Little did I know that I would be scaling many unbelievable terrain in the coming 9 days.  The mother daughter duo was from Mumbai and since both me and cousin have stayed in Mumbai, it didn't take us much time to strike up a conversation with them.

First glimpse of the watch tower





Once they left we climbed up the two storied watch tower. It looked like the watch towers from all those shooting games, giving me a vibe that an enemy might appear any moment :D. My day dreaming mode gets activated very easily you see!

The view from the top was pretty. if we had time in our hands we could have sat there for a bit. But we knew we had left behind some probably angry faced elders at the parking lot. So we wrapped up the photo session quickly and made our way back to the car. If you ask me was it worth going all the way? I would say yes, youngsters can definitely check out the watch tower for some good view and photo opportunity. Elders can give it a skip, as you would need to climb quite a number of stairs to the top. 

So after spending some good time at the Water complex we started towards our hotel. Since the driver had already informed it would not be possible to do sightseeing late afternoon we were mentally prepared. It is said the best time to visit Meghalaya is post the rains. Though we didn't exactly reach post rains but still the place had the post monsoon lush green look. We passed through the busy part of the city and reached a place called Laitumkhrah where our hotel Poinisukh was situated. One good thing about Meghalaya is that you would find ATMs of different banks at convenient locations. The most popular bank in Shillong seemed to be Meghalaya Co-operative Apex bank. We came across the branches and ATMs of this bank at regular intervals.

Laitumkhrah has a slightly colonial feel to it because of the old architectural buildings.  Though we could also see many new structures coming up right around the central chowrasta. This place is relatively cold as compared to other places in Shillong. The famous Cathedral of Mary is one of a highlight of Laitumkhrah. In Khasi language ‘lait’ meaning ‘free’ and ‘umkhrah’ is the name of a river. So ‘Laitumkhrah’ means a place where the river “Umkhrah” originates. 

The Stay: The Hotel Poinisukh

A relatively narrow road which is known as the Laitumkhrah main road leads to the hotel. This road is of historical importance in the sense that the British made and used this road for their horses to go down to Polo grounds via the Goralane-assam rifles roads. 

Frankly speaking, you might even miss the hotel entry if you are not aware. It stands parallel to the main road right before the main chowk (Police Point). Hotel Poinisuk is in the heart of the city, in Laitumkhrah, beside the Laitumkrah Post Office. They have a big parking space in the basement. Our driver dropped us in the parking. And immediately we had bell boys from the hotel tend to us. The entrance to the hotel is pretty with lots of plants along the walls. In general in whole of Meghalaya we found people are overtly plant loving. Purchasing saplings regularly is a very common affair here. 

The lobby was chic and well decorated like any 3 or 4 star hotel. they also have a metal detector at the entry, which buzzes every time you cross it. They have installed automatic sanitizer dispensers everywhere around the hotel. At first glance you will like what you see in the lobby. The local ladies at the reception were in traditional outfit and welcomed us. We had a corporate booking in the hotel so we were entitled to the premier rooms with balconies. 


Second Floor Room

The formalities included giving them the dual vaccination reports, ID card and reservation email. We were given 3 rooms, 2 at 3rd floor and one at the second floor. We took the lift to our respective floors while the bell boys brought in our luggage later. The boys were very cordial and helpful. Since we got the premier rooms, the size was pretty big. It had a double bed, flatscreen tv, mini refrigerator, safety vault, big cupboard, electric kettle, a separate seating section with plush sofas, a small table and chair and a small balcony. They have ample plug points so it feels like a boon for people like me carrying N number of gadgets. The bathroom is also pretty spacious with a big bathtub and hand shower and a separate shower section. Standard set of toiletries were provided in the bathroom. At first glance the room definitely looked premium. But the trouble started soon after. 

Out of the 3 rooms, ours was the one which had a bunch of problems from day one. Since they only had 4 premier rooms and none empty they couldn't move us around. The first problem detected was the door to the balcony didn't close, so at night it would be a problem when the temperature dropped. The second problem was that the key card when inserted in the power slot would not work at times, hence we were not able to switch on the lights at times. The third problem was the bedside power switches were made in a funny manner and you wouldn't really understand which is a functional switch because it looks flat like a empty slot on the board. And finally to get hot water you have to keep the geyser running all day long and even after that let the water flow for about 5-10 minutes before hot water started. So over the 2 days of our stay in Poinisukh we had to call for housekeeping staff multiple times and at some point it started feeling like they would surely throw us out for making so many complaints. So to sum up, even in premier rooms we faced certain challenges. However I would say that the particular room on the 3rd floor had all these problems. The other two rooms we had got for our group didn't face most of the challenges apart from the hot water issue.

We had decided that we will check out the nearby market area and have lunch somewhere outside (We had only two meals with our package so for lunch we were on our own). Once we were done with check ins we stepped out of the hotel. There is a small grocery story right across the street which sells some pretty fancy stuffs as well. Some of the food items and drinks I saw there was pretty unique. There is also a KFC bang opposite to the hotel. So if you are craving for some fried chicken, you know where to go.

KFC & Post Office on the right hand side of the hotel, photo taken from balcony of 3rd floor room

Main Chowk on the left hand side of the hotel, photo taken from balcony of 2nd floor room at 6 AM

Around the Hotel : Laitumkhrah Bazar

On both sides of the main road of Laitumkhrah just after the chowk, you would find vendors selling different things on the footpath. It becomes a busy bazar area after 11 am. There are also many big shops on either side of the road. You can find all sorts of fresh vegetables, fruits, fish, chicken, snacks, flowers, saplings, seeds in addition to the grocery and other stores. We even found an Archies there. We had learnt many of the fresh produce comes from Assam, hence the cost of fresh produce was a tad more expensive in Shillong. Also our driver mentioned that the bazar of Laitumkhrah was expensive compared to the other vegetable markets like Bara Bazar. I would agree to that as most of the things were priced at rates which you find in any metropolitan city. In fact they costed more than what we get in the local produce market of my locality in Kolkata. So yes its expensive. be ready to shell out more if they get a hint that you are a tourist. We were fleeced by a shopkeeper on the last day of our stay, but I will come to that story later.

So the main purpose that day was to explore what unique produce we can find in Shillong which is not that common in Kolkata. And to add to that, I love exploring local produce markets wherever I go. It feels like a treasure hunt to me and I end up buying something or the other. This time also we had planned that we will do produce shopping when we come back to Shillong the day before we left for Kolkata. 


1 & 2. Some unique vegetables - one looking like kundru but is spongy in texture, 3. Herb with fishy smell

Even though expensive we found the market to be very vibrant and interesting. There was a lot of flower shops as well selling bouquets and floral wreaths. I have mentioned before that the people of Meghalaya absolutely love plants. We saw small Maruti Omnis parked with potted plants and saplings and local people were thronging to buy plants. Since we were new to the place, we didn't know that even seeds were being sold for potting. So we went to one vendor who had laid out a basket containing what looked like Sichuan peppercorn and rajmas. I was actually on the lookout for Sichuan pepper  so I was overjoyed. But when we started asking the vendor about price he informed that those were seeds that needs to be planted and not to be cooked as is. It was a little funny as we realized our mistake. 

The most attractive thing was the different vegetables some of which I saw for the first time like Dhekiya Shaak (fiddlehead ferns), fresh bamboo shoots, wild mushrooms, Sohphlang, tree tomato (looks like small brinjals)etc. These tomatoes grows on a seven feet tall plant and is mainly used for chutney or Tung tap (fermented fish chutney). Other than that there was the usual squash, yam, pumpkins of all shapes and sizes, tiny potatoes (signature to this part of the country), broccoli, different types of mustard seeds etc. Then there was a herb, forgot the local name, but the locals have it raw as a salad. I had seen it in Harish Bali's video as well, so when we saw it we tasted it a bit and immediately almost threw up! the herb had extremely fishy smell - felt almost like eating raw Hilsa. I am not sure how the people consume this but for us it was not palatable. And coming to chillies. One would get baffled by the number of chilli variety you would find here. They come in all shapes and sizes and the heat content is also different for each. the most famous chilli of the region - Bhut Jholokia (Ghost chili, king chili) is sold in abundance in all produce market. There was a peculiar type of banana being sold. On the exterior it had hundreds of spots and looked as if it is spoiled, but when we tasted one it was super sweet and awesome!  If you love exploring bazars, the view of these will definitely make your heart happy!



Spotted Bananas
The fish stalls on the road had a handful of different type of fishes like puti, rohu and other river fishes.  There is something different or interesting you can say we noticed about the way chicken is sold in Meghalaya. The whole chicken are skinned and hung in full view and whenever a customer comes they cut and clean it from the skinned chicken. We didn't see live chicken being held up in coops in the shops. Pork is very common and a local favorite so you would find shops selling porks as well. Some 10 minutes walk from our hotel is the main subzi and non veg mandi ( big produce market). Its a two level market with vegetables and fruits in the top level and all non veg in the lower level. We visited this market on our last day in Meghalaya so I will talk about it later.
1. Fish Shops on the footpath, 2. puti mach

Local Food: Tasting 'Jadoh' at Hamkom Pyrbot Jadoh Stall

All this exploration of the produce market made us hungry. It was already close to 2 PM so we decided to have lunch. Now from the suggestions that I had got in TripAdvisor of the local food to try Jadoh was one thing I definitely wanted to give a shot. Being a Bengali and a foodie, gastronomic adventure is equally important for me as is the real sightseeing adventure. I had already looked up for the recommended jadoh stall in Laitumkhrah - Hamkom Pyrbot, it like 10 minutes walk from the hotel.  I managed to coax half of the group to have Jadoh while the rest decided to go for a safer option KFC. 

Jadoh is to Meghalaya what Biryani is to Hyderabad. It is Meghalaya's traditional dish of the Khasi tribe. In Khasi language, 'Ja' means rice and 'Doh' means meat. Jadoh is a laboriously-made dish made with rice and meat. Being a Khasi cuisine, it takes hours to get the recipe done. Jadoh is red rice, cooked with generous amounts of pork meat. Sometimes, it is also cooked with chicken or fish. A mix of green chilies, onions, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, and bay leaves is made. Pieces of pork are then added and fried off, after which the red rice is added and cooked off. The addition of turmeric imparts the rice its rich yellow color and an aromatic flavor.

Hamkom Pyrbot Jadoh Stall

Located within walking distance from Laitumkrah Post Office Hamkom Pyrbot is mostly frequented by the locals looking for some mouth watering Khasi food at pocket–friendly rates. Tourists who love trying out indigenous food over typical restaurant food, you can give it a try. It is a small place and nothing fancy like a big restaurant.  The seating arrangements are also very basic - some wooden long tables and wooden benches (somewhat like what we see at chai tapris). The place maintains basic cleanliness. The restaurant starts operating form 9 Am and different dishes are made in batches all through the day. So if you come very early you might not get everything which you get at lunch hours. Again if you come late, most of the options would be already sold out. So go around 12-1 PM which is the lunch hour. 

The different menu items are all laid out on a big table behind the counter. For those who are not aware of what to eat, can have a look ad then decide like we did. This place offers plenty of vegetarian and non vegetarian food options like Doh-mud which is Pork liver curry, Doh (pork) Khelia - salad made out of minced pork, onions and chillies, Dohjam which is a mixed pork curry, a pungent salad made of mooli, Ja-stem made from rice and turmeric powder, bamboo shoot and chilli, river fish fry, yellow daal, a couple of different chicken curries (which I tried) among many others that this place serves. The food has a lot of smokey flavours as it is cooked over wood fire. I opted for Jadoh, some salad, vegetables and fish fry while the other members tried Jadoh with Chicken curry and vegetables. The mooli salad was something I loved. The total bill came around Rs 280 for 4 people.

Jadoh being cooked on charcoal oven, the non veg and veg plates

Array of dishes you can try

Now coming to the important question whether we liked Jadoh or not? When I tried it the first day I liked it, because by that time we were super hungry. I wont say it was super amazing but it was like homely food, low on spices and with local flavors. Also, the fish fry was good, I liked the fish better than the chicken. The rice was adequately moist and flavorful. The vegetable fries were simple and good. The salads were very unique and I liked them as well. But the second time I tried it with the Bamboo shoot curry I didn't like the flavor of the bamboo shoot as it was too overpowering for me. I have had bamboo shoot earlier, but for me these were very strong flavored and not much of my liking. Overall its good for one time experience for any food enthusiast.

Since I love exploring local food, so while doing research on Shillong I had created a list of restaurants one should check out in Shillong. This is based on the suggestions of locals in Tripadvisor forum and some of the Shillong travel videos on Youtube. I am giving the list below if it helps anyone:

Sightseeing: Police Bazar

After lunch we came back to our rooms and had some rest. The sun sets pretty early by 4.30 PM  in Shillong. So by the time it was evening Chai time it was already dark. We all came together in one room for a chai time adda. After chai, me and cousin decided to visit Police Bazar. The rest of our group bailed out on the plan because they were tired. So we got dressed warmly considering it was getting quite cold by 5 PM itself and made our way out of the hotel.

Here let me tell you that we had already planned what all sightseeing points we wanted to cover in and around Shillong. My cousin however wanted to do a particular trek known as the Mawryngkhang Trek. He wanted to do this trek badly. Now Mawryngkhang Trek is famous for being one of the scariest treks in Meghalaya. So very obviously we could not take the senior folks over there. Even I have some problem of heights when trekking so I opted out of that trek plan. I had told my cousin to choose a buffer day when the rest of the gang would either rest or do some other sightseeing while he can go for this trek. Originally we had thought it would be the day we travelled form Dawki to Sohra. But it seemed that the trek route was nearer from Shillong than from the other route we had planned. So he changed his plan and wanted to do the trek the day after while the rest of the group proceeded with the Shillong in and around sightseeing. 

When we came out, right below the hotel there were 4 to 5 taxis standing. Since it was near the chowk mostly it was some kind of a taxi stand. My cousin talked with one of them regarding the cost to take him to the Trek point. The taxi driver was a Bengali guy and my brother was satisfied with the price he offered. He quoted Rs. 3000 for a hotel to hotel drop including waiting charges at the trek point. However since it was never a good idea to just talk to one person, I suggested he should talk to a couple more taxi drivers before finalizing.

So then we went to the bus stop of Laitumkrah, which was just the opposite side of the taxi stand. A small bus was already standing there. My cousin had been previously to Shillong so he was aware of the bus service. Had it been just me I would have considered a taxi. The bus is a cheaper option plus you get to experience the local transport as well. It was pitch dark outside by that time and the temperature had also dropped a few notches. I think it felt like 18-19 degrees outside r. The bus already had a few locals. We got a seat easily as this is the first stop for the route. The bus waited till it was full and then we started. We paid Rs. 10 per person one way.

Police Bazar is 3.4 Km from Laitumkrah. Some people also call it by the name Khyndailad Bazar. At first it was good. But just after 5 minutes we hit a traffic snarl. And that continued almost till police bazar. What ideally is a 10 minutes journey turned out to be 25 minutes journey due to the heavy traffic jam on the narrow roads. Now we understood what our driver had earlier meant by bad traffic jams late in the evening. 

Finally we got off at one of the signals of Police Bazar. The conglomeration of shops, arcades, hotels, eateries in iridescent display dazzled us in the first look.  And the next thing that hit us was the sea of people at that place. It was teeming with thousands of tourist and locals alike. 





Police Bazar is considered as the heart of the city. The market is laid out in the form a huge circle (chowk) right in the middle of the police bazaar with beautiful landscaping, surrounded by 7 roads emerging from the circle to the different points in the city. Some of the roads in here doesn't allow vehicle entry which makes it easy for the pedestrians to navigate and shop. There are police positioned at the chowk, who would fine you for any wrongful driving.

Its said the best time to be in Police bazar is in the evenings. As then the place comes alive with lights and crowd. Even there is a street food stall section which comes up in the evening. The bazaar is a blend of traditional as well as modern, the chic as well as classic. 

I wanted to buy some local handicrafts for props to be used for my food blogging. We spotted a big shop something like a Khasi Emporium with some bamboo and cane handicrafts on display and headed towards it. It had a good collection. I do not remember the name of the shop but it was right behind the food stalls on the right.  After browsing through their collection I got some cane tray and fridge magnets and my brother got a bamboo mug - our very first purchases in Meghalaya. They had GPay options for payment as well. 

The evening food stalls set in the center of the bazar serves some interesting local cuisines in makeshift shops. After our little retail therapy we headed straight for the food stalls as we both felt hungry. There were a lot of choices. We went around checking out the options first before finalizing what we wanted to eat. Veg and chicken momos, chowmein, rolls, Jadoh, chicken drumsticks, flame grilled chicken, pork & fish, fried eggs, parathas were some of the things we could spot. All of these food items are available at pocket friendly prices. We had some steaming chicken momos to start with. It cost Rs. 35 per plate and had 5 momos in each plate. Though the vendor was from Bihar, the momos tasted pretty good. 

The next things we wanted to try was the flame grilled meat. This looked pretty interesting because of the tall orange flames going up from that stall. He had marinated chicken drumsticks, pork and chicken skewers. We ordered grilled chicken. The vendor held the skewers over the flames as they sizzled and the edges were nicely charred. Once the chicken was done he handed over the skewers to a lady at the back who then laid them down on a disposable plate and drizzled lemon juice generously. She added some chutney and salad on the side and handed it over to us. The chicken was infused with smoky, barbecue flavor. Tough it looked good but taste was average. Seasoning was not up to the mark is what we felt. However the overall experience was worth spending some time. Each plate of grilled chicken costed us Rs. 50. 

Chicken and Pork Skewers



Lady at the back seasoning the grilled meats

After satiating our hunger we now headed towards one of the shopping lanes. The market is made up of a labyrinth of narrow lanes that are bustling with activity. A variety of electronic goods, woolens, beauty products, potted plants, chilies, bakeries, bags, shoes, handicrafts, flowers, restaurants and other shops are scattered around both sides of the lane. If you are good at bargaining, then its a good place for you. You can get lots of souvenir options here. Out of all the things, I liked the variety of chilies a vendor was selling. If it was our last day in the city I would have got a bunch of those chilies back with me. We saw people buying potted plants even in the evening.

For Indian sweets and snacks you can try the big outlet of Delhi Mistan Bhandar. It looked like any big Haldiram outlet and the place was crowded. Once we stepped in we saw they have sweets, chaats, breads etc. This place is good for vegetarians in a predominant non-veg area. Some of the sweets looked interesting. My cousin bought a loaf of bread. 

Sweets at the Delhi Mistan Bhandar



Apart from food and retail therapy, there is lot of stay options available in Police Bazar. From lodges to three star properties, one can book any category of stay as per the budget. This is of course not place for peace seeking tourists, but is heaven for foodies and shopaholics visiting Shillong. 

Please note that Meghalaya has predominantly Christian Population. All main markets remain closed on Sunday as its the day of the Sunday Mass and most people spend their time in the church in the morning and rest of the day with their family and friends.

Taxis are available near the chowk for local sightseeing and for Guwahati drop. We checked with some of the drives about the cost of Mawryngkhang Trek drop. They demanded much more from what the guy at Laitumkrah had asked. So it was final that my cousin was going with the earlier guy he spoke to.

After spending almost an hour at the Police bazar we headed back to our hotel. The bus this time was absolutely jam packed. People were standing as well inside the bus. Meghalaya had almost nil Covid spread at that moment hence in most of the tourist places we didn't see anyone wearing masks. However in the crowded Police bazar or any crowded place people did wear masks. It being our first day in the city we followed the mask protocol everywhere we went. But with so many people packed inside the bus it felt a little uncomfortable considering the Covid scare was still lurking out there. Fortunately this time we faced a short traffic snag and reached Laitumkrah in about 10-12 minutes. 

Coffee Break: Café Shillong, Laitumkrah Main Road

A little before the chowk area, there was again a traffic jam so we got out of the bus. It was a nice chilly evening. We could hear some music being played somewhere down the street. There were some posters of rock concerts put up at places on the road. It was not surprising as the city’s affinity for music is well known. Even the main road of Laitumkrah looked jazzy by the night. As we walked we spotted a quaint café on the first floor of a building. We still had some time for the dinner hour which was at 8.30 PM so we decided to checkout the café.

When we stepped into this café I didn't realize it was one of the recommended places on my eatery list. We went up a flight of stairs, which didn't look anything like a café ambience, deliberation whether it was the right way to the café but eventually we saw a plaque with the name Café Shillong and a quaint rustic space from across the glass door. 

The ambience is no doubt stellar at this place. Comfy couches, quaint tables and chairs adorn the cafe. The yellow lighting seemed pretty.  Apart from the indoor seating they have a small patio where two tables are laid out for outdoor seating, mostly for the smokers. But most of the time it is occupied by couples. 

We didn't realize 6.45 PM was very late by the café timings. They take the last order by 7 PM and in the next half an hour they close shop. We saw very less number of people at the café when we went. Most of the sitting areas were empty and the outside sitting place looked very pretty so we decided to occupy those seats. But soon we understood our folly. It was very cold outside and we didn't have adequate warm clothes on us. But who cares cold when you want to enjoy the ambience right? So while we shivered we placed our orders. 

Looking at their menu we lamented at being already full. There was a lot of items which sounded delicious in both veg and non veg options. The only downside was that after seeing the dirt cheap prices at Police Bazar this came across as an extremely expensive place. Prices were like any other high end cafes in a metropolitan city. As we were already full from the police bazar snacking, my brother opted for a Cappuccino with cinnamon and I opted for a Passionfruit drink ( don't remember the name). I was so full that having a huge cup of coffee was like a death wish before dinner. 

The people in Shillong definitely were tuned into the finer things in life looking at all the retail outlets they had around the city. Bang opposite to the café, is a computer shop selling all high end models like MSI, apple, and other gaming laptops. The downside of this café is any was the extremely slow service. The servers at the counter were busy talking than making the orders which should have taken 10 minutes at maximum. But we were kept waiting for about 15-20 minutes in the cold before we received our orders. By that time I felt numb when I tried the passionfruit drink. It had good amount of ice and it was not even real passionfruit. Some canned syrup was used which tasted very average. The coffee seemed better than my choice, plus it came hot. 

The café is ideal to sip your coffee on a cold evening as you watch the people go by but then choose the indoor seating if you really want to enjoy. Constantly shivering kills half of the joy. And that is teh reason I did not feel like capturing any good pictures at this place.

We had kind of lost track of time sitting on the patio of the cafe until we got a call from my mom who asked about our whereabouts. It was already around 7.30 PM and they were about to close the cafe, so anyway we had to leave. We quickly paid up our tabs and left. 

Dinner : At Hotel Poinisukh

The hotel was barely a 5 minute walk form the café. We reached and freshened up and directly came down to the hall at the ground floor where a buffet dinner was to be served for us. 

The banquet hall was large and mostly it was used for some parties and official meetings too. They had laid down the buffet in one corner. The menu was optimal - one soup, 2 kinds of vegetables, daal, rice, biryani, roti, fish, mutton, salad, papad and sweet. Everything tasted decent. We were the only boarders who were there for the buffet at that time so it felt like the whole place was for us. We wrapped up dinner in 30 minutes and everyone decided to call it day. 

Plan for Day 2 at Shillong:

The plan for the next day was that we would split up in 2 groups - 

  • Group 1 would go for the Mawryngkhang Trek. We heard that it takes about 4 -5 hours to complete it and hence once they complete the trek they would join group 2 where ever we were at that point in time.
  • Group 2 would start with Laitlum Canyon, come back to hotel for breakfast, wash and change and then proceed with the local sightseeing.

Our adventures for Day 2 will be continued in my next Meghalaya blog. Till then stay tuned and if you haven't already checked out the other two blogs in this series do check the links at the end of this blog.

 Important Takeaways from this part

1. Use applications like Splitwise to manage your expenses if you are travelling in a group

2. Try the local food at Shillong. List of recommended eateries given in blog

3. If you are staying at Laitumkrah, you can take a local bus to Police Bazar which starts at Laitumkrah chowk 

4. All main markets are closed on Sundays.

5.  Meghalaya has ATM facilities of different bank at convenient locations across the state. 

6. If you love a chic cafe, check out Café Shillong in Laitumkrah for the vibe and the coffee

7. For Khasi handicrafts, souvenirs, cheap local food check out Police Bazar

To be continued in next part.

Other posts in this series:

  • Meghalaya Trip Summary
  • Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 - Umroi Airport, Umiam Lake (Part 1)






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Umaim Lake from Viewoint

Welcome to the first day of our Meghalaya travel. I am someone who loves to meticulously plan out most of the details possible before starting a trip. Months of research and rework would go into all my travel plans in a pre Covid world. Fast forward to a post Covid world and I had nearly forgotten what planning for a trip meant. Last year the only place I went to was a resort near Pune for a couple of days in December. And that's what I could manage at max in the whole of last year. Now are travel plans have become completely dependent on the Covid situation everywhere. Plus when you think about the rules and regulation that have been enforced at any major tourist place, you feel its better to be at home than go through all the hassles. 

I will break up this entire travel diary into small parts as they might otherwise get too long to read. Hence splitting day 1 into two parts, the first of which is below.

Before the Trip

So to start with, I didn't have any plans for any kind of travel until September. Then one fine day while watching a travel vlog series on Meghalaya we fell in love with the place, the greenery, the people, the food and the unique culture of that place. Me and mom had a casual discussion on the desire to visit this place someday. And then it was put on the backburner. Then suddenly a couple of days later my aunt called and she informed that they were planning to visit Meghalaya from where my cousin was planning to do a work from hills. So if we are interested maybe we can also join them. The opportunity felt godsend and even without giving it a second thought I jumped at the proposal. 

What started as a casual work from hills idea slowly transformed into a full blown travel plan of 9 days thanks to yours truly. Well, in my defense I can only say that considering the ever changing Covid situation, getting the next opportunity to travel is very uncertain so I wanted to fully utilize the single opportunity that was knocking at my door.

There are a couple of things I did straightaway-

1. Referred to some YouTube vlogs on Meghalaya and got a visual idea about which all places seemed interesting and feasible for us. (feasible because we had a couple of senior citizens with us in the group)

2. Post a question on the trip advisor forum asking about a indicative trip plan. This became a very helpful thing in the whole planning. The 'local guides' who are basically reviewers who are having an in-depth knowledge about the region provides various recommendations depending on the questions you ask. If you want to checkout my discussion thread head over to the link HERE.

3. Looked up on the internet for all covid related norms and procedures. Entering into Meghalaya mandates that you either are double vaccinated or having a negative RTPCR report with you. Everyone in our group was double vaccinated. So we carried multiple print outs of the vaccination certificate.

4. We booked the flights (direct flights - Indigo) before finalizing the hotels and places. You usually get cheaper flights if you book early. But this proved to be both a boon and bane for us. Boon because we got cheaper flights. Bane because we realized later that if we had booked the return flight from Guwahati, it would be shorter distance for us from Tura - our last destination. And also we could have spent a couple of days in Assam to checkout a few places near Guwahati. I will talk more about this in my blog which will cover Tura. But keep in mind if you are keeping Tura as your end point opt for Guwahati Airport for return.

5. You need to generate an e-invite for entry in Meghalaya. This invite basically has all the details (address, aadhar no, photo, age) of all the members in the group. In addition to that it would also need your trip plan and the address of first 2 days of your stay at least. Since the hotel in Shillong was booked by my Uncle's office so we already had the address handy. You most definitely should generate the e-invite before you travel so that you do not have to waste time at the Shillong airport for completing the formality. Trust me its a real hassle to do the same sitting at the airport when you cant wait to step out!

 For all the details of TO DOs refer to my last blog on the trip HERE.

Trip Starts

On a relatively warm morning of October, we started from Kolkata. Our Indigo flight was at 8 AM from Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Airport. We were a total of 6 people from two families including a couple of senior citizens. So basically our group comprised of youngsters, mid aged folks and senior citizens. Hence during the course of this trip we set our destinations keeping in mind of this mixed age group. 

Boarding the Indigo Flight from Kolkata with single entry/exit door

Our flight duration was of 2 hours approximately. The flight travels over Bangladesh before entering Meghalaya. The landscape changes drastically once it reaches Meghalaya. Plain land and fields get replaces by mountainous terrain. Miles of undulating hills with dense forest cover and varying shades of green enthrall the eyes. As you go deeper into the state you would start seeing the quaint towns and the beautiful serpentine mountain roads dotted with farming lands. The plane was flying at very low altitude by then and we could feel we would almost touch the mountains. 

Indigo operates an ATR flight ( lighter, smaller aircrafts for shorter durations) in this sector. Though I was aware about the ATR flight but I forgot to consider the fact that these aircrafts has only one exit gate and for this flight it was in the back. We booked all our seats in the front rows so we were the first to enter and last to depart. This seemed like at disadvantage at first but there was one perk that we got. The first row of Indigo flights are XL seats ( more leg space and comes with a higher cost) and most of the times these seats are empty. But as the evacuation route was situated near these seat so at least one passenger needs to be seated in these seats as per mandate. So the airhostess randomly asks someone from the nearby rows to occupy the XL seats. While going to Shillong my uncle was asked which he happily agreed to. And while coming back we proactively asked the airhostess regarding the XL seats to which she agreed immediately. So this is a simple trick to get a free upgrade to XL seats. 

Arial view of Meghalaya from flight
The greenery of the land is mesmerizing
The aircraft was flying so low we felt we could touch the mountains!

While the flight was taxing on the runway. The Umroi airport is visible in distance

Since we were seated at the very first set of seats, we were the last to de-board the plane. The moment we stepped out of the aircraft, cool and pollution free air of Meghalaya greeted us. It seemed as if we have stepped into a place which didn't look like India anymore! It was a short walk from the aircraft to the airport. It felt a little like the Pune airport because of the size of the airspace and the mountains surrounding it . But the major difference was that the hills surrounding the Umroi airport was covered in a thick carpet of green. It was just an amazing sight to behold. Walking down the tarmac, with seasonal blossoms adorning the sideways and the towering mountains hugging the quaint airport form all sides. 

Umroi is a small airport and very limited number of flights ply to and from this place in a day. So the number of passengers you will see here is very less compared to any other airport. When we landed we only saw one queue of passengers waiting outside the airport, mostly to board the flight in which we had just arrived. And apart form those passengers the arrival hall was completely empty for us.

Scenic walk from the flight to the airport

We got our bags within 5-10 minutes of landing. There is a couple of belts only so its well managed and everything is pretty much in the accessible distance. Coming to the washroom in the airport. They are nice and clean. Do not expect anything jazzy like in big airports. But I was pleased with the number of washrooms present in this small airport. It is actually more than sufficient. 

Before you can exit the airport or basically enter Meghalaya you need to complete the exit formalities. There is a small counter just before the exit of the airport where two young ladies were verifying all the documentations of the passengers. We asked the seniors to wait at the seating area while me and my cousin got into the queue to complete the formality. It was a small queue of about 10-15 people only. Every tourist is expected to produce the following documents at the counter:

  1. Double Vaccination Certificate ( or RTPCR if you do not have a double vaccination certificate)
  2. ID cards ( e.g Aadhar cards work at all places)
  3. E-invite ( complete with all the necessary details of the passengers)

Now if you are having these three set of documents in place, it would hardly take 5 minutes to complete the exit formalities. Their database already would have your details (photographs, ID cards etc.) and they would just cross verify them with the documents you produce. But surprisingly what we saw that most of the tourists were completely clueless about the E-invite. The mandatory E-invite is mentioned almost everywhere if you do a little research or even in your flight ticket instructions. Still most people were caught unawares. They were then asked to download the app, and fill in all the details on spot before they were allowed to exit the airport. I would again mention that please get the e-invites done before your journey. It saves a lot of time and energy because its an exhaustive list that you need to fill in. 

The ladies handed us a slip which had to be shown at the entry point of Shillong. It was a proof that we had completed all entry formalities at the airport. Do not loose this slip! Once the formalities were done we stepped outside. It was a bright sunny and cool morning. The view from the exit point of the airport seemed prettier. The green hills against the sharp blue sky was a treat to the eyes. 

We already had a pre-booked car from my uncle's office which was supposed to pick us up form the airport. the same car would be with us for the entire duration of the trip. Please note Uber or Ola is not operational in Meghalaya. So you need to always avail local transportation or local cabs for travel. Since Umroi Airport isn't a very big airport so I would recommend you pre-book your car who can also come and pick you up form the airport. There seemed to be a taxi stand at the back side of the exit gate, but we did not check that out. 

The Exit side of the Umroi Airport

Since the car still had some time to reach the airport we took the opportunity to click some photos around the area while my mom and grandma sat in the chairs outside and chatted. There was a covid counter outside, which was providing covid related information to tourist who went up to them. A point to note, there is no restaurants or food shops inside or outside the airport. So if you want to grab a quick tea or coffee that is not possible in the airport.

Rear side of the Airport from where you exit
Cab drivers outside the airport waiting for their passengers

Soon our car arrived. We had booked an Innova for the entire trip duration. It could snugly fit in maximum 7 adult passengers + 1 driver. But that would be very uncomfortable especially in the back seat by the boot. we were 6 people so it was good for us. We had 5 big suitcases and 4 backpacks with us. So some of the suitcases had to be put on the roof of the car. It took the driver almost 10 minutes to get all the luggage arranged and properly fastened. Once done we were on our way. 

I had heard that the driver had already expressed his displeasure over our plan to visit Tura to my uncle before we reached. He again started asking us why we were planning for Tura and kept giving us reasons why it is not a good place. The weather is warm, not like Shillong he started with. The distance is too much, there is nothing much to do around - his ranting continued for a bit and my uncle did his best to bypass them. While me and cousin were pretty adamant that Tura definitely needed to be included as we wanted to touch upon all the major regions of Meghalaya. Finally when the driver got to know that we have pre-booked our stay in Tura he gave up hope of coaxing us out of that plan. 

The place where we stopped for tea

Since this was Day 1 of our Meghalaya trip we wanted to checkout a few places nearby after reaching hotel and freshening up. While researching about the places we could cover on day 1, I did see that Umiam lake would be on our way to Shillong. But I had thought that with so much of luggage and the disheveled look we should better not stop at the Umiam lake enroute. But when we spoke to the driver he mentioned that it would be better to stop and check out the lake on way than try to come back in the afternoon, because by that time the traffic would be bad. It was almost 11 and folks wanted to get some tea. So we stopped by a tea shack on the highway for a quick break. The shop owner was already prepping up for lunch time. He was chopping some vegetables to be added to the chowmein he was making. But he happily agreed to make tea for us. The interesting bit was that this guy was from Kerala and he had come all the way to Meghalaya and was now settled here owning a business. Once done with the tea we were on our way again.

Since the driver was showing his reluctance for some of our planned areas while we were talking earlier, when he suggested this, there was an iota of doubt in our minds that he didn't want to drive later in the day hence he wanted to finish everything at one go before dropping us off at the hotel. But there was no way we could verify at that point whether it was a genuine suggestion so we agreed.

The lake can be viewed from various points on this stretch of road. There is a viewpoint further down the road which gives a bird's eye view of the lake. But first we wanted to get a closer look of the lake. The entrance is by the side of beautiful orchid resort. It has chalet style cottages which you can see from below and would be tempted to spend the night there. There was an entry fee at the entrance of the gate. We paid Rs 360 for 6 people ( Rs 60/per person). The pretty road led us to the entry of the Water Sports Complex.

There is ample parking space at this place. We parked our car and headed towards the entrance. There was a nice park area to start with. Manicured lawns and lot of shady tall trees surrounding the cobblestoned pathway that led to the water sports area. There was some very unique flora and fauna around. The place had considerable number of tourists since it was a Saturday. It was both a mix of locals and tourists who were seen in the park. A few steps along the way and you get the first glimpses of Umiam lake shimmering in the background. The lake hugs the shore of the water sports complex. There is also washroom facility inside the complex park. 

Umiam Lake is one of the biggest artificial lakes in Meghalaya that is situated about 15 km from Shillong. It is more popularly known locally as Bara Pani, and covers an area of about 220 sq km. Encircled by the lush green East Khasi Hills, Umiam Lake came into existence in the ‘60s due to the damming of the river Umiam. The importance of this lake is manifold as this lake is the outcome of the first-ever hydel power project in the region. The dam, built on the Umiam River, gave birth to the lake after having diverted the flow of water of the River Umiam.

Legend has it that once upon a time, two sisters were descending from heaven to earth to visit Meghalaya. On the way, one of the sisters got lost. And the other sister cried so much that the lake was formed by her tears. The literal translation of the word Umiam in Khasi language is ‘water of tears’.

Umiam Lake from a Distance

Park in the Water Sports Complex (Pic courtesy : cousin, Editing : Me)

A boat on the Umiam lake
Umiam Lake

We walked all the way down to the lake. There was a small deck on the right hand side. This was a perfect place to get some beautiful shots of the lake. A few steps ahead was the small jetty or platform which led to the boats for water activities. After taking a considerable amount of photos against the beautiful backdrop of the park and lake we went to enquire about the charges of the boats in the small ticketing counter situated near the jetty.

We could see some open boats on the water. These were small boats probably seating a couple of people. But since the sun was pretty strong at the time, we wanted to check out the cost of the covered boat. These covered boats could seat 10 folks. We got to know that the charge was Rs100/person for the covered boat and it would only go if the boat was full or if you paid for 10 seats in total. So either you cough up Rs 1000 or try to get some more people added to make the total 10. We first tried to get some other folks, but it seemed people were more interested in taking selfies than getting into the water. So after 10 minutes of futile attempt when we were almost ready to give up, a man asked us if we wanted to take the boat. We nodded and he said that he had already booked for his family and there were 3 seats empty so we could occupy those. We felt it was like godsent. But the next challenge was that out of 6 4 of us wanted to do the activity but only 3 seats were present. What happened next was unexpected for us. The man told that he anyway was not interested in going so he can offer his seat as well to us. We leapt at the offer with much gratitude. 

Other Boats
Our Boat

Our Boat
So finally it was 4 of us - me , my cousin, my granny and my mom who boarded the boat. The platform is pretty stable so getting into the boat is not much of a struggle. Even my grandma who was wearing a saree could easily get into the boat so anyone can do that. The family with whom we went had small kids as well and it was a really good company.

The ride was almost of 5-7 minutes. At first it might sound very less but believe me that's optimum ride time. In that short time itself the boat went almost to the mid of the lake and back. Now even if I am a mountain person I really love to get into clear waters at times especially for sports activities. I have had multiple experiences of boat rides but everyone of them is a unique experience in itself. Riding in the clear turquoise waters of Umiam lake while the water sprayed on your face at every turn the boat made was an exhilarating experience to tell the least. It is something you should definitely do. And if you have some senior folks in the group make them experience this as well, because its truly amazing. And pretty safe too. You do not need to worry too much as there are no sharp turns anywhere. 

Beautiful waters of Umiam Lake during the boat ride


After a really fun ride when we were back on the shore we offered our share of the money to the family. But the brother of the man who initially offered us the ride refused to take money saying that anyway they would have gone empty, it was good that we joined them. We were overwhelmed at the gesture by the completely stranger family. We got to know they are form Bihar but stay in Gujarat and this was their last day in Meghalaya. After exchanging pleasantries we parted. 

Important Takeaways from this part:

1. Ask the airhostess if you can occupy the XL seats. If they are empty once boarding is completed, chances are high that you will easily get a free upgrade.

2. Ensure you generate the e-invite in advance

3. Entry fee at Umiam : Rs 60/person

4. Cost of the 10-seater covered boat ( 5-7 min ride) - Rs 1000 (full boat) / Rs 100 per person

Next Part : Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 2) - Umiam Lake, Shillong, Laitumkhrah, Police Bazar

Other posts in this series:

  • Meghalaya Trip Summary
  • Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 2) - Umiam Lake, Shillong, Laitumkhrah, Police Bazar


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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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