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Elephant Falls

Continued from Day 1..

We visited Meghalaya at such a time when tourism was just reopening after the long Covid shutdown. The already beautiful vistas of Meghalaya seemed more untouched with very few tourists around. 

We started Day 2 as decided but almost 30 minutes late than planned time. As mentioned in the previous blog, the plan for the day was that we would split up in 2 groups - 

  • Group 1 would go for the Mawryngkhang Trek. We heard that it takes about 4 -5 hours to complete it and hence once they complete the trek they would join group 2 where ever we were at that point in time.
  • Group 2 would start with Laitlum Canyon, come back to hotel for breakfast, wash and change and then proceed with the local sightseeing.

Group 1 comprised of my cousin and his mother. And the rest four of us were in Group 2. Since I was not part of group 1 hence I do not have a first hand experience of how the overall trek was. However I would jot down some of the overview from what I heard from my cousin and some nice pictures which will give you a glimpse of the terrain in the next blog in this series. 

Laitlum Canyon


Laitlum Canyon:

  • Entry Fee : Rs 50 / group
  • Parking Available : Yes
  • Covid Document Check : No
  • Mask Mandatory: No

From Harish Bali's Meghalaya video and other bloggers videos it was very apparent that Laitlum canyon looks like a paradise if you visit it in the wee hours of the morning in monsoon season. Since we were not visiting during the rains I thought that at least if we can be there by 6 AM we would be able to see some clouds in the valley. Accordingly I told the time to the group and no one seemed to be excited by it. Finally I managed them to all agree that we should be at the spot by 6.30 AM. 

But it turned out to be easier said than done. Group 2 started from the hotel at around 6.15 AM. By that time Group 1 was still waiting for their car. It took us around 30-35 minutes to Laitlum Canyon. We went straight from our hotel following the main road, across the circle crossing the entire market which was looking sleepy. People in Shillong are pretty early risers, we would see joggers and morning walkers as early as 5 AM on the streets, even when the light would not come up. Especially you would see lot of youngsters running on the street in the morning. With almost zero traffic at that hour and good roads with various gradients, its a very good natural cardio that one gets. 

There is something about Meghalaya that makes you wake up early. Maybe because its in further east which brings the dawn pretty early. Or maybe it was the sheer excitement of being able to travel after such a long and trying year made us wake up sharp at 5 AM everyday during those 9 days. I for one, who doesn't wake up before 7 on usual days would beat the alarm every single day! And it gave us so much more time to enjoy the day.


View from the parking space

Walk down the paved path towards the canyon



Landscape keeps changing throughout on the way to Laitlum. From city limits to meadows, low-lying pastures and quaint towns would keep you company. Almost 10 km from our hotel we came across a small village which I believe is known as Smit village. Time stands still here and technology doesn't seem to have permeated yet into the lives of these simple villagers. Traditional Khasi houses, wicker fences, fields of crops, little children playing on the road (because hardly there were any vehicles on the road apart form our car at that time), ladies and men pushing a unique looking trolley to carry water and other amenities. We even saw a small boy pushing a trolley with water. Since it was a Sunday and a Mass day so we also saw many Khasi villagers dressed up in their traditional attire walking towards the village church with their kids tagging along.

If you love the virgin air of early morning and like to get lost among the vastness of nature then definitely visit Laitlum canyon. This beautiful untouched secret of a place lies about 30 km from Shillong. Laitlum Canyons literally translates to “end of hills” and it does justice to its name. A paved concrete way leads you on towards the canyon.


Once you reach there you will see there is a designated parking space for the cars and bikes. We got out of the car as our driver found a parking spot. The first feel was - this is what infinity would look like! We couldn't see the vantage view of canyons from the parking, but we could already feel the boundlessness. The view form this side looks very pretty with undulating layers of hills covered in greens waking up to the sun. As we started walking towards the main area we saw the hill top is a vast area surrounded by fields and meadows, with just a couple of houses/tea-snacks shop on top of the hill.

While driving to Laitlum, our driver had shared a lot of stories about his film shooting crew experience at this place. He told us about the time Rock On 2 crew was here and shooting on the canyons. he also told that recently Ayushman Khurana was here for a month shooting for his upcoming film. He used to take him in his car to Laitlum and other places. After hearing this story I again checked out which part of Rock On was shot here as I had not watched the part 2. It seemed they had created a stage on the edge of the canyon for a song shoot. Frankly speaking once I knew it was shot here it felt oxymoronic. I could not believe such a concert stage tearing through the tranquility of this place which was the main asset. 

We kept walking towards the canyon, it was like a 2-3 minute walk. As expected by the time we reached there was not even a spot of cloud anywhere. The sun was high in the sky and the grassland looked more yellowish at this time of the year. I could only imagine how pretty it might look during the rains with lush green rolling grasslands.

Laitlum Canyon is also known as the amphitheater of Meghalaya and rightly so. You feel like crying out - "I am on the top of the world!" once you reach the ledge of the canyon. The breathtaking gorges and steep winding stairways that snake their way down to the lush valley makes you feel like a speckle in the landscape. You feel miniscule taking in the all encompassing nature around.   There is a small viewpoint created at short gaps where you can stand and have a look down the deep valleys and gorges. You can see a serpentine silver river snaking through the forest land below. Though the sun was up it was very windy and cold. We saw a few families had got some food and tea and were enjoying their food on the grassland. There were cleaning ladies deployed as far as our eyes could reach to pick up stray litters. It is really impressive to see how cautiously the people in Meghalaya maintain the cleanliness of the places everywhere and not just at the 'Asia's cleanest village - Mawlynnong'. 


We learnt that a long, narrow  and steep flight of stone stairs snake through the edge of the Laitlum canyon to the tiny hamlet of Rasong. It is the only route form this village to the nearest market, has almost 3000 stairs and takes almost 5 hours for the hike. There is a rope rope-way from the top to the village, which supplies the urgent needs to the village. It is only meant for goods transportation and not human.

While my mother and granny waited at one of the viewpoints, me and my uncle made way along the fenced ledge deeper into the canyon grassland. I must say even though it looks pretty flat at a glance but it is not so. There are places where you need to cross some kind of a thin stream and it can become tricky. Also the land is very uneven at places and if you are not used to hiking, you might even feel shortness of breath after a while. This especially happens when the weather is cold and you struggle to breath in the cold air during a brisk walk. We kept going for some time and saw a patch of potato plants. I never knew how a potato plant looks but my uncle being a specialist in this area pointed out to me to take a note of those pretty plants. We had been seeing them even on our way towards Laitlum at many places. Small plants with pretty white flowers planted in rows very abruptly in a patch on the grassland. have a look at these pretty things below in the photo series. 


Potato Flower

Potato Plants
Potato Farming Patch

Village of Rasong at max zoon form my camera
A playground (?) beside the village


We spent some more time navigating through the terrain until we decided to walk back. We had a packed itinerary today and wanted to be back to our hotel by breakfast time. After getting some more pretty photos of the place we left for our hotel. On our way back we saw a group of bikers coming towards the canyon. The group even had lady bikers. Some more construction was happening at one side of the canyon and it seemed they were coming up with some staying options and washroom facility. 

Tips: 

  • Visit the canyon as early as possible in the morning e.g. 5 AM to view the sleeping clouds or before 5 PM when the clouds again start settling down in the valley
  • This place is best visited during the monsoon when it is stunning in green
  • If you are carrying snacks or food, do not litter the grounds. There are trash bins placed at places, put your trash in designated bins only


We reached our hotel and decided to meet directly at the breakfast table. We had got information that the other group had already begun their trek to Mawryngkhang and almost half way done. So we anticipated they would be able to meet us pretty soon at some of the next viewpoint we were planning to go to.

The breakfast was served at the rooftop restaurant in Poinisukh. It was a buffet breakfast comprising of the very standard menu like - breads, sandwiches, fruits, cakes, tea/coffee, eggs, puri - subzi and some south Indian options like vada, idlis and chutneys. Unfortunately by the time we reached the place the previous group had already wiped the vadas clean and the hotel informed that they would not be repeating the vadas. I felt the south Indian menu was the best in the whole spread. We finished a nice breakfast and then headed for our next destination. The plan for the day was to do as many local sightseeing as possible. The original plan was like the below: 

  • Elephant falls
  • Umiam Lake
  • Shillong View Point
  • Don bosco museum
  • Bara Bazar & Police Bazar
  • Churches of Shillong

However we had already done Umiam lake the day before. So that was out. And as expected, our driver intervened in deciding the locations. He said Shillong view point was closed due to covid restrictions ( we didn't argue with him because there was no point). After this I simply submitted to his judgement and let him plan the day for us. The first place he took us was the Mary Help of Christians Cathedral. 


Mary Help of Christians Cathedral (both levels)
Mary Help of Christians Cathedral
  • Entry Fee : Free
  • Parking Available : Yes (There is a designated parking space inside the church premise at the first floor). However since we were only spending a short time here, we parked our car on the road itself (pretty empty at that time of the day)
  • Covid Document Check : No
  • Mask Mandatory: No

The first few things you notice about the church is the pretty powder blue color, Gothic style of architecture and how huge the place is. This church is located in the Laitumkhrah itself and was like a 5 minute drive from our hotel. This is a Roman Catholic Church and also known as the Cathedral Catholic Church. Dedicated to mother Mary, the Cathedral Church of Mary Help of Christians was built by the Germans in 1913. According to history, the construction of the present shrine was built after the first church got destroyed due to a fire accident in 1936. It got the status of a shrine in 1980, on completion of the Catholic Church's 100 years in North East India. This church falls under Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Shillong and is the principal place of worship of about 3,00,000 strong Catholics of Ri Bhoi and East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya.

The church is built on a sort of high plateau and one has to take a steep short flight of steps or a gradient to reach it. The beautiful church has two levels. Each level had a church. While the lower level is a small chapel that has a prayer hall and is filled with candles and prayer books, the upper level is a huge cathedral with big seating capacity. The upper level church seemed to be for the elite and higher class while the smaller chapel was housing the tribes of this area and less well off class. The church has high arches and stained glass windows which add to its grandeur. 

Second Level - Main Church


Garden in the second level


Since it was a Sunday and a mass day, we saw people dressed in their Sunday best waiting in a queue to get into the church. We also saw a board by the entrance to the church which said tourists not allowed inside. Maybe because of it being a mass day, the restrictions on tourist was in force or maybe because of the pandemic the entrance was restricted to outsiders - I am not sure of the reason here. So we didn't try to go in but just walked around. There is a small garden outside where you can sit and enjoy the atmosphere. We could hear the choir inside playing. People were dressed so well it appeared they were here for some high class party. We even saw ladies in LBDs and gents sporting their best suits. The upper level has a huge parking area. There are a few buildings surrounding the parking area, one of which was a bookshop/ souvenir shop. We spent some time in the open area and then headed back. There were beautiful poinsettia blossoming in the garden which added a sharp red contrast to the otherwise muted landscape.

Before getting into the car we heard that the other group has completed their trek and will be heading back soon. We gave them our next coordinate which was going to be Elephant Falls and asked them to directly meet us there.

Poinsettia blossoming in the garden of the Church
Elephant Falls
Elephant Falls
  • Entry Fee : Rs 100/per person
  • Parking Available : Yes 
  • Covid Document Check : No
  • Mask Mandatory: No
  • Covid Document Check : No

It took us about 30 minutes to reach Elephant falls from the church and falls on the road connecting Shillong to Sohra (Cherrapunji). When you reach the place you can see a number of souvenir shops, small restaurants and a gate with a flight of stairs going down towards the falls. There is ample parking space beside these shops. There is also a pretty tree canopied park behind the parking area which also has a kids play area. 

We started our descent towards the falls following the steps leading down after buying the entry ticket. It cost us Rs 100 per person and seemed kind of steep. But once you see the waterfall you will find it worth the amount. There was a shop at the starting of the stairs which was providing Khasi costumes for tourists who wanted to get themselves clicked in the traditional dress. We saw the kids were looking most excited in the costume because they were also given a fake sword which they were playing with. We passed the shop and headed downwards. The other group from Mawryngkhang Trek was yet to arrive. A man at the entrance to the first level of the falls took our entry ticket and let us enter the place. 

Shillong is especially known for some breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls it has. Out of which, Elephant Falls is the most popular. The fall is not named after the shape of an elephant as one might think, but it is named after an elephant shaped rock discovered here at the base of the waterfall at the last level, which was later destroyed by the 1897 earthquake. The original Khasi name of the waterfall is Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew, which translates to "the three - step waterfall".

Stairs going down towards 2nd level

Traditional Baskets made into litter bins 

The bridge at the second level
Light & Shade on water
Level 2 waterfall

As the name suggests this waterfall has 3 different levels and each level has a different beauty. The third and last level is the most pretty one. We visited on the last day of October and still the falls had good amount of water. I could only imagine how much more prettier it would look during the monsoon. While the first level of the falls can be easily reached by going down about 20-25 steps, the second and the third levels are much more difficult to navigate as the steps are tall and steep. Its almost 100 more steps down to the final level after the first level. Litter bins are available all over the trail so make sure you are not unnecessarily littering the place.

My mother and grandma decided to stop by the first level itself because the later part looked too daunting for them. And it is advisable that people with mobility issues should not go down all three levels because while coming back it would be very taxing. Thus only me and my uncle went down the next two levels. Going down is not that much of an effort. There are bends which is narrow and you need to make way for the people coming up but its a relatively easy climb down. 

3rd level

When you reach the base of the falls it ends in a small pool of water. There is a boating facility available and if you wish you can take a ride for an additional cost. Please note you cannot enjoy a dip in this pool, only boating is allowed. But you can definitely take some Instagram worthy pictures at this spot with the beautiful waterfall in your background. 

You can also see the The Mattilang Amusement Park from the boundary fence of this area. One might be tempted to just cross the fence and walk down to the amusement park but it is not allowed. An incident happened right before our eyes. There were a couple of over enthusiastic gentlemen who can down from the Amusement park side and tried climbing the fence of the Elephant Falls area. But immediately the guard on duty came down and scolded them. It happens that both the properties are maintained by different governing bodies and has separate entry fees so trespassing to either section is forbidden. Elephant falls is government managed while the amusement park is private owned.

Boating at the 3rd level


The climb back was really tedious. While coming down I was in a jacket but while going up I had to take off the jacket because I was sweating after going up some steps. I would recommend take frequent pauses on the way and don't try to climb at one go that will help in preserving your energy. The stairs are rather steep so just take your time to go up. We were completely dehydrated by the time we came to the first level. And I think I guzzled down two small bottles of water myself. By that time the second group - my cousin and aunt had joined us. They spoke very excitedly about their trek. After taking a breather both of them headed down while we rested in the benches around the first level. Once I was hydrated I noticed that probably the first level was the best part to sit and enjoy nature - pleasing waterfall, nice cool breeze and dense forest surrounding us. We also saw the mother-daughter duo at the falls whom we had met near the Umiam Lake on Day 1. 

The best thing about Meghalaya is that there are pay-n-use washroom facility at regular distances along the road as well as in the sightseeing spots. This place also had a pay-n-use washroom facility opposite to the parking area, which was nice and clean. You can also see some hand washing basins outside the washroom. They charged us Rs 10 per person (standard rate across the state at all pay-n-use washrooms).

As mentioned about there were a couple of restaurants around the parking spot which was serving snacks and some hot meals. Since we already had a heavy breakfast we didn't feel much hungry by that time even if it was almost lunch hour. But we saw a good number of people inside enjoying maggi and other Khasi foods. 

Tips:
  • The steps of the stairs are tall so for anyone having joint pain issues, or old people who are not used to trekking should avoid going down all three levels. They can view the falls form the first level and rest in the benches placed there.
  • Since it is quite a steep climb, wear good walking shoes
  • Carry a walking stick, it just works wonders when you climb up. You can at times get these walking sticks on rent from the shops around
  • Carry water bottle with you, its a tiring uphill climb and you will need the hydration
  • There is a provision of aquaguard water inside the entrance of the first level of the waterfall. Fill up your empty bottles at this spot with the naturally chilled mountain water.
  • If you want to purchase some souvenirs then there are souvenir shops near the parking lot.
  • This place has a good pay-and-use washroom facility which charges Rs. 10/pp
  • Tourists can get pictures in traditional Khasi costumes here.
  • If you are visiting in rains , bring your own raincoat/ umbrella or you can rent umbrellas at the shops at the entrance.


Our adventures for Day 2 will be continued in my next Meghalaya blog. Till then stay tuned and if you haven't already checked out the other three blogs in this series do check the links at the end of this blog.

Important Takeaways from this part:

1. If you plan to visit Laitlum Canyon, then make sure you reach there by 5 AM max or come in the evening time just before sunset. 

2. Laitlum feels the best in monsoon.

3. You can also hire local taxis for half or full day sightseeing in and around Shillong.

4.  If you are planning to trek down to the Rasong village, do carry water and snacks as there are no shops around the area.

5. Elephant Falls is a must visit place. Till Level 1 everyone can walk down. Level 2 & 3 are pretty steep and not recommended for people having any kind of mobility issues. Ample seating is available at Level 1, if you want to sit and enjoy.

6. Carry a small bottle of water with you when you walk up and down the levels, you will feel dehydrated with the tedious climb. 

7. Refill your bottles with the aquaguard placed at the entrance of the 1st level. The aquaguard is fed by the mountain water, is super chilly and tastes wonderful. 

8. Wear good shoes, especially if you are going there during the rains. The steps might become slippery.

9. Paddle boating facility available at the 3rd and lowest level of the falls. You are however not allowed to go into the water for a swim.

10. Trash bins are available everywhere in Meghalaya viewpoints, so try not to litter any spot you visit.

11. Pay and use washroom facility is available at Elephant Falls. We did not see a functional washroom at Laitlum.

12. Ample parking space available both at Laitlum and Elephant Falls. 

13. Food/snacks facility is available at both the spots.

14. Mask is mandatorily used within Shillong city limits but in both the viewpoints we didn't see people wearing masks and it was safe. 

To be continued in Next Part 

Other posts in this series:

  • Meghalaya Trip Summary
  • Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 1) - Umroi Airport, Umiam Lake
  • Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 2) - Umiam Lake, Shillong, Laitumkhrah, Police Bazar


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Police Bazar

Continued from Part 1..

Umiam Lake

After the boat ride we took a stroll in the park surrounding the lake. The panoramic view of the East Khasi Hills all around the lake is gorgeous. I think if this looked so surreal post rains, then during the rains this place would be a visual treat for sure.

We realized that we had arrived in Meghalaya in the wedding season. Reason being wherever we went around the state we saw pre-wedding shoots happening. The first one of many of those we witnessed in this park itself. There was a whole crew running up and down with the bride and groom to-be helping them change, pose, shoot etc. Little did we know that we would encounter such entourage almost everywhere we went. This only proves that Meghalaya has also become a very popular choice for pre-wedding shoots among youngsters because of its scenic beauty.

After strolling a bit we sat down on the manicured lawn. Once you sit down , mesmerizing view of the lake makes you feel like staring at it for hours. Even though the sun was quite strong, the breeze from the lake made it enjoyable to sit and relax. There were a lot of families and tourist groups visiting the park. We even saw a good number of locals in the park. 

Umiam Lake





Tiny bridge that leads to the watch tower

A pretty leaf somewhere in the park



 

After we had spent a considerable amount of time sitting we decided to head back. Once back to the car I noticed some kind of a watch tower peeking form behind the canopy of trees and bushes. It looked pretty so I drew the attention of my cousin towards it. He was equally curious. So we decided to look for it next. leaving behind the baffled team of elders me and my cousin darted towards the park looking for a path to reach the watchtower.

We started with a dead end but eventually found the way. It was right along the shoreline. There was a tiny bridge you need to cross which leads the way towards the watchtower. We were pretty pleased with ourselves when we finally spotted the watchtower in the distance. We were kind of sprinting to save time, so I had to catch my breath a couple of times. But the air was cooler in this part as it had a dense foliage cover around. You might even wonder whether it is a legit way to go but after like 2-3 minutes of brisk walk you would spot the watch tower.

Once we were at the tower we saw a lady and her mother climbing down the stairs of the watchtower. I was quite surprised as we caught the mother trying to scale down a uneven rocky step with the help of her daughter. And yet they didn't look hassled at all. The old lady was all smiles seeing us and we had a quick chat with them. That encouraged me, because all I could see was an uneven rocky step that led to the first steps of the watch tower. If she can do it without apprehension so can I ! Little did I know that I would be scaling many unbelievable terrain in the coming 9 days.  The mother daughter duo was from Mumbai and since both me and cousin have stayed in Mumbai, it didn't take us much time to strike up a conversation with them.

First glimpse of the watch tower





Once they left we climbed up the two storied watch tower. It looked like the watch towers from all those shooting games, giving me a vibe that an enemy might appear any moment :D. My day dreaming mode gets activated very easily you see!

The view from the top was pretty. if we had time in our hands we could have sat there for a bit. But we knew we had left behind some probably angry faced elders at the parking lot. So we wrapped up the photo session quickly and made our way back to the car. If you ask me was it worth going all the way? I would say yes, youngsters can definitely check out the watch tower for some good view and photo opportunity. Elders can give it a skip, as you would need to climb quite a number of stairs to the top. 

So after spending some good time at the Water complex we started towards our hotel. Since the driver had already informed it would not be possible to do sightseeing late afternoon we were mentally prepared. It is said the best time to visit Meghalaya is post the rains. Though we didn't exactly reach post rains but still the place had the post monsoon lush green look. We passed through the busy part of the city and reached a place called Laitumkhrah where our hotel Poinisukh was situated. One good thing about Meghalaya is that you would find ATMs of different banks at convenient locations. The most popular bank in Shillong seemed to be Meghalaya Co-operative Apex bank. We came across the branches and ATMs of this bank at regular intervals.

Laitumkhrah has a slightly colonial feel to it because of the old architectural buildings.  Though we could also see many new structures coming up right around the central chowrasta. This place is relatively cold as compared to other places in Shillong. The famous Cathedral of Mary is one of a highlight of Laitumkhrah. In Khasi language ‘lait’ meaning ‘free’ and ‘umkhrah’ is the name of a river. So ‘Laitumkhrah’ means a place where the river “Umkhrah” originates. 

The Stay: The Hotel Poinisukh

A relatively narrow road which is known as the Laitumkhrah main road leads to the hotel. This road is of historical importance in the sense that the British made and used this road for their horses to go down to Polo grounds via the Goralane-assam rifles roads. 

Frankly speaking, you might even miss the hotel entry if you are not aware. It stands parallel to the main road right before the main chowk (Police Point). Hotel Poinisuk is in the heart of the city, in Laitumkhrah, beside the Laitumkrah Post Office. They have a big parking space in the basement. Our driver dropped us in the parking. And immediately we had bell boys from the hotel tend to us. The entrance to the hotel is pretty with lots of plants along the walls. In general in whole of Meghalaya we found people are overtly plant loving. Purchasing saplings regularly is a very common affair here. 

The lobby was chic and well decorated like any 3 or 4 star hotel. they also have a metal detector at the entry, which buzzes every time you cross it. They have installed automatic sanitizer dispensers everywhere around the hotel. At first glance you will like what you see in the lobby. The local ladies at the reception were in traditional outfit and welcomed us. We had a corporate booking in the hotel so we were entitled to the premier rooms with balconies. 


Second Floor Room

The formalities included giving them the dual vaccination reports, ID card and reservation email. We were given 3 rooms, 2 at 3rd floor and one at the second floor. We took the lift to our respective floors while the bell boys brought in our luggage later. The boys were very cordial and helpful. Since we got the premier rooms, the size was pretty big. It had a double bed, flatscreen tv, mini refrigerator, safety vault, big cupboard, electric kettle, a separate seating section with plush sofas, a small table and chair and a small balcony. They have ample plug points so it feels like a boon for people like me carrying N number of gadgets. The bathroom is also pretty spacious with a big bathtub and hand shower and a separate shower section. Standard set of toiletries were provided in the bathroom. At first glance the room definitely looked premium. But the trouble started soon after. 

Out of the 3 rooms, ours was the one which had a bunch of problems from day one. Since they only had 4 premier rooms and none empty they couldn't move us around. The first problem detected was the door to the balcony didn't close, so at night it would be a problem when the temperature dropped. The second problem was that the key card when inserted in the power slot would not work at times, hence we were not able to switch on the lights at times. The third problem was the bedside power switches were made in a funny manner and you wouldn't really understand which is a functional switch because it looks flat like a empty slot on the board. And finally to get hot water you have to keep the geyser running all day long and even after that let the water flow for about 5-10 minutes before hot water started. So over the 2 days of our stay in Poinisukh we had to call for housekeeping staff multiple times and at some point it started feeling like they would surely throw us out for making so many complaints. So to sum up, even in premier rooms we faced certain challenges. However I would say that the particular room on the 3rd floor had all these problems. The other two rooms we had got for our group didn't face most of the challenges apart from the hot water issue.

We had decided that we will check out the nearby market area and have lunch somewhere outside (We had only two meals with our package so for lunch we were on our own). Once we were done with check ins we stepped out of the hotel. There is a small grocery story right across the street which sells some pretty fancy stuffs as well. Some of the food items and drinks I saw there was pretty unique. There is also a KFC bang opposite to the hotel. So if you are craving for some fried chicken, you know where to go.

KFC & Post Office on the right hand side of the hotel, photo taken from balcony of 3rd floor room

Main Chowk on the left hand side of the hotel, photo taken from balcony of 2nd floor room at 6 AM

Around the Hotel : Laitumkhrah Bazar

On both sides of the main road of Laitumkhrah just after the chowk, you would find vendors selling different things on the footpath. It becomes a busy bazar area after 11 am. There are also many big shops on either side of the road. You can find all sorts of fresh vegetables, fruits, fish, chicken, snacks, flowers, saplings, seeds in addition to the grocery and other stores. We even found an Archies there. We had learnt many of the fresh produce comes from Assam, hence the cost of fresh produce was a tad more expensive in Shillong. Also our driver mentioned that the bazar of Laitumkhrah was expensive compared to the other vegetable markets like Bara Bazar. I would agree to that as most of the things were priced at rates which you find in any metropolitan city. In fact they costed more than what we get in the local produce market of my locality in Kolkata. So yes its expensive. be ready to shell out more if they get a hint that you are a tourist. We were fleeced by a shopkeeper on the last day of our stay, but I will come to that story later.

So the main purpose that day was to explore what unique produce we can find in Shillong which is not that common in Kolkata. And to add to that, I love exploring local produce markets wherever I go. It feels like a treasure hunt to me and I end up buying something or the other. This time also we had planned that we will do produce shopping when we come back to Shillong the day before we left for Kolkata. 


1 & 2. Some unique vegetables - one looking like kundru but is spongy in texture, 3. Herb with fishy smell

Even though expensive we found the market to be very vibrant and interesting. There was a lot of flower shops as well selling bouquets and floral wreaths. I have mentioned before that the people of Meghalaya absolutely love plants. We saw small Maruti Omnis parked with potted plants and saplings and local people were thronging to buy plants. Since we were new to the place, we didn't know that even seeds were being sold for potting. So we went to one vendor who had laid out a basket containing what looked like Sichuan peppercorn and rajmas. I was actually on the lookout for Sichuan pepper  so I was overjoyed. But when we started asking the vendor about price he informed that those were seeds that needs to be planted and not to be cooked as is. It was a little funny as we realized our mistake. 

The most attractive thing was the different vegetables some of which I saw for the first time like Dhekiya Shaak (fiddlehead ferns), fresh bamboo shoots, wild mushrooms, Sohphlang, tree tomato (looks like small brinjals)etc. These tomatoes grows on a seven feet tall plant and is mainly used for chutney or Tung tap (fermented fish chutney). Other than that there was the usual squash, yam, pumpkins of all shapes and sizes, tiny potatoes (signature to this part of the country), broccoli, different types of mustard seeds etc. Then there was a herb, forgot the local name, but the locals have it raw as a salad. I had seen it in Harish Bali's video as well, so when we saw it we tasted it a bit and immediately almost threw up! the herb had extremely fishy smell - felt almost like eating raw Hilsa. I am not sure how the people consume this but for us it was not palatable. And coming to chillies. One would get baffled by the number of chilli variety you would find here. They come in all shapes and sizes and the heat content is also different for each. the most famous chilli of the region - Bhut Jholokia (Ghost chili, king chili) is sold in abundance in all produce market. There was a peculiar type of banana being sold. On the exterior it had hundreds of spots and looked as if it is spoiled, but when we tasted one it was super sweet and awesome!  If you love exploring bazars, the view of these will definitely make your heart happy!



Spotted Bananas
The fish stalls on the road had a handful of different type of fishes like puti, rohu and other river fishes.  There is something different or interesting you can say we noticed about the way chicken is sold in Meghalaya. The whole chicken are skinned and hung in full view and whenever a customer comes they cut and clean it from the skinned chicken. We didn't see live chicken being held up in coops in the shops. Pork is very common and a local favorite so you would find shops selling porks as well. Some 10 minutes walk from our hotel is the main subzi and non veg mandi ( big produce market). Its a two level market with vegetables and fruits in the top level and all non veg in the lower level. We visited this market on our last day in Meghalaya so I will talk about it later.
1. Fish Shops on the footpath, 2. puti mach

Local Food: Tasting 'Jadoh' at Hamkom Pyrbot Jadoh Stall

All this exploration of the produce market made us hungry. It was already close to 2 PM so we decided to have lunch. Now from the suggestions that I had got in TripAdvisor of the local food to try Jadoh was one thing I definitely wanted to give a shot. Being a Bengali and a foodie, gastronomic adventure is equally important for me as is the real sightseeing adventure. I had already looked up for the recommended jadoh stall in Laitumkhrah - Hamkom Pyrbot, it like 10 minutes walk from the hotel.  I managed to coax half of the group to have Jadoh while the rest decided to go for a safer option KFC. 

Jadoh is to Meghalaya what Biryani is to Hyderabad. It is Meghalaya's traditional dish of the Khasi tribe. In Khasi language, 'Ja' means rice and 'Doh' means meat. Jadoh is a laboriously-made dish made with rice and meat. Being a Khasi cuisine, it takes hours to get the recipe done. Jadoh is red rice, cooked with generous amounts of pork meat. Sometimes, it is also cooked with chicken or fish. A mix of green chilies, onions, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, and bay leaves is made. Pieces of pork are then added and fried off, after which the red rice is added and cooked off. The addition of turmeric imparts the rice its rich yellow color and an aromatic flavor.

Hamkom Pyrbot Jadoh Stall

Located within walking distance from Laitumkrah Post Office Hamkom Pyrbot is mostly frequented by the locals looking for some mouth watering Khasi food at pocket–friendly rates. Tourists who love trying out indigenous food over typical restaurant food, you can give it a try. It is a small place and nothing fancy like a big restaurant.  The seating arrangements are also very basic - some wooden long tables and wooden benches (somewhat like what we see at chai tapris). The place maintains basic cleanliness. The restaurant starts operating form 9 Am and different dishes are made in batches all through the day. So if you come very early you might not get everything which you get at lunch hours. Again if you come late, most of the options would be already sold out. So go around 12-1 PM which is the lunch hour. 

The different menu items are all laid out on a big table behind the counter. For those who are not aware of what to eat, can have a look ad then decide like we did. This place offers plenty of vegetarian and non vegetarian food options like Doh-mud which is Pork liver curry, Doh (pork) Khelia - salad made out of minced pork, onions and chillies, Dohjam which is a mixed pork curry, a pungent salad made of mooli, Ja-stem made from rice and turmeric powder, bamboo shoot and chilli, river fish fry, yellow daal, a couple of different chicken curries (which I tried) among many others that this place serves. The food has a lot of smokey flavours as it is cooked over wood fire. I opted for Jadoh, some salad, vegetables and fish fry while the other members tried Jadoh with Chicken curry and vegetables. The mooli salad was something I loved. The total bill came around Rs 280 for 4 people.

Jadoh being cooked on charcoal oven, the non veg and veg plates

Array of dishes you can try

Now coming to the important question whether we liked Jadoh or not? When I tried it the first day I liked it, because by that time we were super hungry. I wont say it was super amazing but it was like homely food, low on spices and with local flavors. Also, the fish fry was good, I liked the fish better than the chicken. The rice was adequately moist and flavorful. The vegetable fries were simple and good. The salads were very unique and I liked them as well. But the second time I tried it with the Bamboo shoot curry I didn't like the flavor of the bamboo shoot as it was too overpowering for me. I have had bamboo shoot earlier, but for me these were very strong flavored and not much of my liking. Overall its good for one time experience for any food enthusiast.

Since I love exploring local food, so while doing research on Shillong I had created a list of restaurants one should check out in Shillong. This is based on the suggestions of locals in Tripadvisor forum and some of the Shillong travel videos on Youtube. I am giving the list below if it helps anyone:

Sightseeing: Police Bazar

After lunch we came back to our rooms and had some rest. The sun sets pretty early by 4.30 PM  in Shillong. So by the time it was evening Chai time it was already dark. We all came together in one room for a chai time adda. After chai, me and cousin decided to visit Police Bazar. The rest of our group bailed out on the plan because they were tired. So we got dressed warmly considering it was getting quite cold by 5 PM itself and made our way out of the hotel.

Here let me tell you that we had already planned what all sightseeing points we wanted to cover in and around Shillong. My cousin however wanted to do a particular trek known as the Mawryngkhang Trek. He wanted to do this trek badly. Now Mawryngkhang Trek is famous for being one of the scariest treks in Meghalaya. So very obviously we could not take the senior folks over there. Even I have some problem of heights when trekking so I opted out of that trek plan. I had told my cousin to choose a buffer day when the rest of the gang would either rest or do some other sightseeing while he can go for this trek. Originally we had thought it would be the day we travelled form Dawki to Sohra. But it seemed that the trek route was nearer from Shillong than from the other route we had planned. So he changed his plan and wanted to do the trek the day after while the rest of the group proceeded with the Shillong in and around sightseeing. 

When we came out, right below the hotel there were 4 to 5 taxis standing. Since it was near the chowk mostly it was some kind of a taxi stand. My cousin talked with one of them regarding the cost to take him to the Trek point. The taxi driver was a Bengali guy and my brother was satisfied with the price he offered. He quoted Rs. 3000 for a hotel to hotel drop including waiting charges at the trek point. However since it was never a good idea to just talk to one person, I suggested he should talk to a couple more taxi drivers before finalizing.

So then we went to the bus stop of Laitumkrah, which was just the opposite side of the taxi stand. A small bus was already standing there. My cousin had been previously to Shillong so he was aware of the bus service. Had it been just me I would have considered a taxi. The bus is a cheaper option plus you get to experience the local transport as well. It was pitch dark outside by that time and the temperature had also dropped a few notches. I think it felt like 18-19 degrees outside r. The bus already had a few locals. We got a seat easily as this is the first stop for the route. The bus waited till it was full and then we started. We paid Rs. 10 per person one way.

Police Bazar is 3.4 Km from Laitumkrah. Some people also call it by the name Khyndailad Bazar. At first it was good. But just after 5 minutes we hit a traffic snarl. And that continued almost till police bazar. What ideally is a 10 minutes journey turned out to be 25 minutes journey due to the heavy traffic jam on the narrow roads. Now we understood what our driver had earlier meant by bad traffic jams late in the evening. 

Finally we got off at one of the signals of Police Bazar. The conglomeration of shops, arcades, hotels, eateries in iridescent display dazzled us in the first look.  And the next thing that hit us was the sea of people at that place. It was teeming with thousands of tourist and locals alike. 





Police Bazar is considered as the heart of the city. The market is laid out in the form a huge circle (chowk) right in the middle of the police bazaar with beautiful landscaping, surrounded by 7 roads emerging from the circle to the different points in the city. Some of the roads in here doesn't allow vehicle entry which makes it easy for the pedestrians to navigate and shop. There are police positioned at the chowk, who would fine you for any wrongful driving.

Its said the best time to be in Police bazar is in the evenings. As then the place comes alive with lights and crowd. Even there is a street food stall section which comes up in the evening. The bazaar is a blend of traditional as well as modern, the chic as well as classic. 

I wanted to buy some local handicrafts for props to be used for my food blogging. We spotted a big shop something like a Khasi Emporium with some bamboo and cane handicrafts on display and headed towards it. It had a good collection. I do not remember the name of the shop but it was right behind the food stalls on the right.  After browsing through their collection I got some cane tray and fridge magnets and my brother got a bamboo mug - our very first purchases in Meghalaya. They had GPay options for payment as well. 

The evening food stalls set in the center of the bazar serves some interesting local cuisines in makeshift shops. After our little retail therapy we headed straight for the food stalls as we both felt hungry. There were a lot of choices. We went around checking out the options first before finalizing what we wanted to eat. Veg and chicken momos, chowmein, rolls, Jadoh, chicken drumsticks, flame grilled chicken, pork & fish, fried eggs, parathas were some of the things we could spot. All of these food items are available at pocket friendly prices. We had some steaming chicken momos to start with. It cost Rs. 35 per plate and had 5 momos in each plate. Though the vendor was from Bihar, the momos tasted pretty good. 

The next things we wanted to try was the flame grilled meat. This looked pretty interesting because of the tall orange flames going up from that stall. He had marinated chicken drumsticks, pork and chicken skewers. We ordered grilled chicken. The vendor held the skewers over the flames as they sizzled and the edges were nicely charred. Once the chicken was done he handed over the skewers to a lady at the back who then laid them down on a disposable plate and drizzled lemon juice generously. She added some chutney and salad on the side and handed it over to us. The chicken was infused with smoky, barbecue flavor. Tough it looked good but taste was average. Seasoning was not up to the mark is what we felt. However the overall experience was worth spending some time. Each plate of grilled chicken costed us Rs. 50. 

Chicken and Pork Skewers



Lady at the back seasoning the grilled meats

After satiating our hunger we now headed towards one of the shopping lanes. The market is made up of a labyrinth of narrow lanes that are bustling with activity. A variety of electronic goods, woolens, beauty products, potted plants, chilies, bakeries, bags, shoes, handicrafts, flowers, restaurants and other shops are scattered around both sides of the lane. If you are good at bargaining, then its a good place for you. You can get lots of souvenir options here. Out of all the things, I liked the variety of chilies a vendor was selling. If it was our last day in the city I would have got a bunch of those chilies back with me. We saw people buying potted plants even in the evening.

For Indian sweets and snacks you can try the big outlet of Delhi Mistan Bhandar. It looked like any big Haldiram outlet and the place was crowded. Once we stepped in we saw they have sweets, chaats, breads etc. This place is good for vegetarians in a predominant non-veg area. Some of the sweets looked interesting. My cousin bought a loaf of bread. 

Sweets at the Delhi Mistan Bhandar



Apart from food and retail therapy, there is lot of stay options available in Police Bazar. From lodges to three star properties, one can book any category of stay as per the budget. This is of course not place for peace seeking tourists, but is heaven for foodies and shopaholics visiting Shillong. 

Please note that Meghalaya has predominantly Christian Population. All main markets remain closed on Sunday as its the day of the Sunday Mass and most people spend their time in the church in the morning and rest of the day with their family and friends.

Taxis are available near the chowk for local sightseeing and for Guwahati drop. We checked with some of the drives about the cost of Mawryngkhang Trek drop. They demanded much more from what the guy at Laitumkrah had asked. So it was final that my cousin was going with the earlier guy he spoke to.

After spending almost an hour at the Police bazar we headed back to our hotel. The bus this time was absolutely jam packed. People were standing as well inside the bus. Meghalaya had almost nil Covid spread at that moment hence in most of the tourist places we didn't see anyone wearing masks. However in the crowded Police bazar or any crowded place people did wear masks. It being our first day in the city we followed the mask protocol everywhere we went. But with so many people packed inside the bus it felt a little uncomfortable considering the Covid scare was still lurking out there. Fortunately this time we faced a short traffic snag and reached Laitumkrah in about 10-12 minutes. 

Coffee Break: Café Shillong, Laitumkrah Main Road

A little before the chowk area, there was again a traffic jam so we got out of the bus. It was a nice chilly evening. We could hear some music being played somewhere down the street. There were some posters of rock concerts put up at places on the road. It was not surprising as the city’s affinity for music is well known. Even the main road of Laitumkrah looked jazzy by the night. As we walked we spotted a quaint café on the first floor of a building. We still had some time for the dinner hour which was at 8.30 PM so we decided to checkout the café.

When we stepped into this café I didn't realize it was one of the recommended places on my eatery list. We went up a flight of stairs, which didn't look anything like a café ambience, deliberation whether it was the right way to the café but eventually we saw a plaque with the name Café Shillong and a quaint rustic space from across the glass door. 

The ambience is no doubt stellar at this place. Comfy couches, quaint tables and chairs adorn the cafe. The yellow lighting seemed pretty.  Apart from the indoor seating they have a small patio where two tables are laid out for outdoor seating, mostly for the smokers. But most of the time it is occupied by couples. 

We didn't realize 6.45 PM was very late by the café timings. They take the last order by 7 PM and in the next half an hour they close shop. We saw very less number of people at the café when we went. Most of the sitting areas were empty and the outside sitting place looked very pretty so we decided to occupy those seats. But soon we understood our folly. It was very cold outside and we didn't have adequate warm clothes on us. But who cares cold when you want to enjoy the ambience right? So while we shivered we placed our orders. 

Looking at their menu we lamented at being already full. There was a lot of items which sounded delicious in both veg and non veg options. The only downside was that after seeing the dirt cheap prices at Police Bazar this came across as an extremely expensive place. Prices were like any other high end cafes in a metropolitan city. As we were already full from the police bazar snacking, my brother opted for a Cappuccino with cinnamon and I opted for a Passionfruit drink ( don't remember the name). I was so full that having a huge cup of coffee was like a death wish before dinner. 

The people in Shillong definitely were tuned into the finer things in life looking at all the retail outlets they had around the city. Bang opposite to the café, is a computer shop selling all high end models like MSI, apple, and other gaming laptops. The downside of this café is any was the extremely slow service. The servers at the counter were busy talking than making the orders which should have taken 10 minutes at maximum. But we were kept waiting for about 15-20 minutes in the cold before we received our orders. By that time I felt numb when I tried the passionfruit drink. It had good amount of ice and it was not even real passionfruit. Some canned syrup was used which tasted very average. The coffee seemed better than my choice, plus it came hot. 

The café is ideal to sip your coffee on a cold evening as you watch the people go by but then choose the indoor seating if you really want to enjoy. Constantly shivering kills half of the joy. And that is teh reason I did not feel like capturing any good pictures at this place.

We had kind of lost track of time sitting on the patio of the cafe until we got a call from my mom who asked about our whereabouts. It was already around 7.30 PM and they were about to close the cafe, so anyway we had to leave. We quickly paid up our tabs and left. 

Dinner : At Hotel Poinisukh

The hotel was barely a 5 minute walk form the café. We reached and freshened up and directly came down to the hall at the ground floor where a buffet dinner was to be served for us. 

The banquet hall was large and mostly it was used for some parties and official meetings too. They had laid down the buffet in one corner. The menu was optimal - one soup, 2 kinds of vegetables, daal, rice, biryani, roti, fish, mutton, salad, papad and sweet. Everything tasted decent. We were the only boarders who were there for the buffet at that time so it felt like the whole place was for us. We wrapped up dinner in 30 minutes and everyone decided to call it day. 

Plan for Day 2 at Shillong:

The plan for the next day was that we would split up in 2 groups - 

  • Group 1 would go for the Mawryngkhang Trek. We heard that it takes about 4 -5 hours to complete it and hence once they complete the trek they would join group 2 where ever we were at that point in time.
  • Group 2 would start with Laitlum Canyon, come back to hotel for breakfast, wash and change and then proceed with the local sightseeing.

Our adventures for Day 2 will be continued in my next Meghalaya blog. Till then stay tuned and if you haven't already checked out the other two blogs in this series do check the links at the end of this blog.

 Important Takeaways from this part

1. Use applications like Splitwise to manage your expenses if you are travelling in a group

2. Try the local food at Shillong. List of recommended eateries given in blog

3. If you are staying at Laitumkrah, you can take a local bus to Police Bazar which starts at Laitumkrah chowk 

4. All main markets are closed on Sundays.

5.  Meghalaya has ATM facilities of different bank at convenient locations across the state. 

6. If you love a chic cafe, check out Café Shillong in Laitumkrah for the vibe and the coffee

7. For Khasi handicrafts, souvenirs, cheap local food check out Police Bazar

To be continued in next part.

Other posts in this series:

  • Meghalaya Trip Summary
  • Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 - Umroi Airport, Umiam Lake (Part 1)






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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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