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Chicken Bharta
 Hi All, how have you been, again after a break I am back with one more popular Kolkata recipe. You must be wondering why such random spells of no posts. Blame it on my zodiac but this is how a Gemini works. There are long spells when I feel very passionate about certain things like social media activity, frequent editing posting interacting and then come a spell when I happily give up all these and just enjoy some not rushed time for myself. Just to clarify I am still very much in love with eating and cooking and I quite often experiment with new dishes too, its just that not always I plan to take a picture of it and create a post out of it. Today's post would also not have materialized had it not been for a special person asking me to do so. Having said that when you have to setup the entire backdrop, food prop, food thing after such a long spell of no activity, it seems overwhelming. Especially after slogging in the kitchen for half of my precious Saturday morning in the intense summer heat, when I have to push myself to be creative in food photography too I wondered how I used to put up with this on a regular basis a year back.  But I still do it - the whole 9 yards - adjusting ambient light, setting up backdrops, rummaging through my utensil box for the perfect bowl, fishing out some napkin props from the corner of my cupboard and finally taking 50-60 odd pictures so that I can find one decent photo to edit and post. Phew! And in the middle of all this chaos, I forgot to place the meticulously cut slices of boiled egg on top of my bowl of chicken bharta before taking the shots. The realization came when I was cleaning up everything - I saw those two slices of eggs sitting there like orphans in a bowl I had put aside. For a fleeting second I did think whether I should setup everything again, but then I convinced myself out of it as I was already tired with all the running around. So readers please don't judge the photos based on the missing garnish, it tasted good actually. 

Now coming to the recipe. Kolkata loves all kind of Mughlai food. There is a plethora of Mughlai dishes tailored to the palate of Bengali food connoisseurs which you can find in all small and big restaurants across the city. Chicken Bharta is a one such Mughlai delicacy prepared with shredded chicken and hard boiled eggs cooked in selected aromatics. Usually it is considered as a dhaba style dish which pairs perfectly with roomali rotis or naans. If you are in Kolkata just step out in your neighborhood in the late evenings and you will see a beeline of people waiting outside on the road in front of small food shacks for getting the chicken bharta, chowmein or biryani packed for dinnertime. Especially if its around the weekend the crowd is more. It has almost become part of the culture there to get these delicacies packed for home on the way back to office to start off the weekend food frenzy. And when you get it so cheap in the local restaurant why would anyone slog at home to make it. 

But people like us who are miles away form the city, if we want to enjoy these we have to slog in the kitchen - there is hardly any choice there. What I have understood is that everyone has their own little formula of success for a good chicken bharta. And there are mild variations of the recipe you will find all over the net. Most of the time you will see cashew paste or  poppy seed paste being added to the dish to up the creamy quotient, but since I am making this on a hot summer afternoon, I skipped it to make it a little lighter for the tummy. Taste wise it didn't compromise anything I can say. Also at time I have seen restaurants adding Kewra scent to this dish just to make it more 'Mughlai' but I really don't like it at all. The natural aroma of the spices with the chicken feels much more authentic to me rather than loading it up with unnecessary things. I hope you like this recipe. Do comment if you have nay suggestions to make it better. I had it with homemade naan which my mother made. Maybe i will also talk about the naan recipe sometime, its an absolute hit. 

Chicken Bharta

Preparation Time : 15 minutes
Cooking Time : 60 minutes

Serves - 2 adult

Ingredients :
  • Egg - 2
  • Onion - 2 large 
  • Tomato - 1 
  • Ginger - 1 inch
  • Clove - 1
  • Cardamom - 2
  • Cinnamon - 1/2 inch
  • Nutmeg powder - 1/4 tsp
  • Turmeric - 1/2 tsp
  • Kashmiri red chili powder - 1 tsp
  • Cumin Powder - 1 tsp
  • Coriander Powder - 1 tsp
  • Tandoori Chicken Masala - 1/2 tsp
  • Refined Oil + Butter- as needed
  • Cream - 2 tbsp
  • Curd - 2 tbsp
  • Salt - as per taste
  • Sugar - as per taste
  • Chicken Stock - 1.5 cups
  • Warm water - as needed
Ingredients for Chicken Stock:
  • Chicken - 400-500 gm
  • Black peppercorn (crushed) - 5
  • Ginger (roughly sliced) - 1 inch piece
  • Garlic cloves - 5-6
  • Onion (roughly sliced) - 1/2 

Procedure:

1. Start by cleaning the chicken pieces. Take a stock pot or a deep kadai and add 3 cups of water. Place all the ingredients for Chicken Stock in the pot over medium-high heat. Bring it to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to low heat and simmer for 30 minutes or until the chicken is just cooked. You can check the doneness of the chicken by piercing near any of the bone area and if the juices run clear or just light pink, then the chicken is cooked. Strain the stock and keep it aside. Separate the chicken from the spices and vegetables. Now transfer the chicken into the stock and keep it covered till you are ready to cook with it. Discard the vegetables and spices.

Tip : The key to a juicy succulent chicken is the slow simmer for extended time. If you cook your chicken in a rolling boil water then the chicken tends to dry out.
Tip: Always use chicken with bones, the bones have a lot of flavor which gets added to the stock
Tip : Keeping the chicken submerged in the stock prevents it from drying out till you are ready to cook. You can reserve the stock and use it for making fragrant pulao or soups.

2. Boil two eggs and keep aside.

2. Now get the masala ready. In a small bowl add the turmeric, coriander power, cumin powder, tandoori chicken powder, red chili powder. Now mix a little water and make a masala paste.

3. Make a paste of 1 onion, 1 tomato and 1 inch ginger. Keep it aside

4. In a kadai, heat 50/50 refined oil and butter. Now temper it with cinnamon , cloves and cardamom. When the spices are fragrant add 1 onion (finely chopped). Fry till the onions are a light shade of brown. 

5. Add the onion paste from Step 3. Adjust salt and cook this till the raw smell goes off. 

6. Now add the masala paste from Step 2. Fold in and cook till the oil separates from the masala.

7. Now add about 1.5 cups ( or as needed) of the reserved chicken stock. Add about 1/4 tsp of nutmeg powder. Adjust the salt and sugar. Mix well with the masala and let it simmer for about 5-7 minutes. Occasionally give it a stir to prevent the masalas from sticking.

Tip: If you want to add cashew paste you can add at this step. I didn't add it.
Tip : In Kolkata chicken Bharta is made a little sweet, if you want to skip the sugar you can.

8. I wanted a little tanginess in the bharta so at this point I switched off the gas and added 2 tbsp of whisked curd. Switching off the gas and then only mixing the curd will prevent it from curdling. Once its well incorporated turn the gas on and let it simmer. 

9. While the gravy is simmering, shred the boiled chicken with two forks. Discard the bones. Once the gravy has cooked for about 7 minutes add the shredded chicken and fold in. Let it cook covered till oil floats up.

10. Now chop the hard boiled eggs and add it to the gravy. By this time the gravy would have thickened up a bit. When you add the boiled eggs it will further thicken the gravy. 

11. Add 2 tbsp of fresh cream ( you can add more if you want) and stir in. Let everything simmer for about 5 more minutes. 

12. As a last step you can add some Kasuri methi or just garnish it with some fresh coriander leaves and slices of boiled egg.

Serve it with your choice of Indian flatbread like roomali roti or naan and fresh salad and enjoy!

Chicken Bharta



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Back in Pune the weather is right now in a transitional phase - neither hot nor cold. A couple of days last week we even got Kalboishakhi during afternoon hours which brought down the temperature considerably. But the morning hours especially around noon time is pretty hot. This kind of weather makes you feel lazy and I am no exception. I just want to have a good plate of wholesome meal and lay back with my books or indulge in writing. One pot meals are my usual go to thing when I am especially in the lazy zone but still want to have something delicious. Shah Jeera chicken pulao is one such recipe which I made by chance one day.

During my last summer visit to Kashmir I had got some really good quality Shah Jeera from the Gurez hotel chef. Shah Jeera is something which usually is very rarely used in Bengalis cuisine. So it never was a pantry staple for me. But post my Kashmir visit, since the chef had advocated about the aroma these tiny little things impart to any dish I was curious to try it out in some of my rice preparations to start with. The first thing I had made was a simple Jeera rice substituting the regular jeera with shah jeera and oh boy what a taste transformation it was! I was hooked after that. Usually during weekends I would prepare quick and dirty veg pulaos to go with some non veg dish. I started using Shah jeera in some of my veg pulaos and definitely it was a game changer for me. Without too many masalas the pulao would still turn out yummy. 

This gave me the thought to try making a very simple chicken pulao in which shah jeera dominated the flavor profile. That's how this recipe was born. Folks who like a really masaledar biryani type pulao would find this one a tad too simple. But if you are one of those people like me who doesn't like too many spices in their pulao then you might give this one a try. A new recipe with a hint of Arabic flavor profile. It also reminded me of some of the dishes  I had tasted in Gurez.

Interesting to note is you can skip the complete chicken part to just make a yummy shah jeera veg pulao.

Marination Time : 30 minutes
Preparation Time : 10 minutes
Cooking Time : 30 minutes

Serves - 1 adult

Ingredients :
  • Ambemohar / Gobindobhog / Fragrant Rice - 150 gm
  • Chicken Thigh - 1
  • Shah Jeera - 1/4 tsp
  • Ginger Paste (fresh) - 1/4 tsp
  • Clove - 1
  • Cardamom - 1
  • Cinnamon - 1/2 inch
  • Red Carrots (diagonal half moon / matchstick)  - 20 gm
  • French Beans (diagonally chopped) - 15 gm
  • Turmeric - 1/4 tsp
  • Refined Oil + Ghee - 2 tsp
  • Salt - as per taste
  • Sugar - as per taste
  • Warm water - as needed
Ingredients for marination:
  • Shah Jeera - 1/4 tsp
  • Black peppercorn - 10
  • Bay Leaf - 1/2
  • Lemon - 1/4th
  • Red Chilli Powder - 1/4 tsp
  • Turmeric - 1/4 tsp
  • Turmeric powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Refined Oil - 1/2 tsp
  • Salt - as per taste

Procedure:

1. Start by toasting the Shah Jeera and bay leaf on medium flame on a tawa, continuously using the spatula so that it does not get burnt. When you get a nice aroma take it off and let it cool down. Then grind it using a mortar pestle or a masala grinder.

2. Coarsely grind the peppercorn

3. Now marinate the clean chicken with the ground shah jeera, bayleaf and black pepper along with the other ingredients mentioned under marination. Rest it for about 30 minutes to 1 hour.



4. Now take any steamer ( as per the size of the chicken). I had used a steel perforated steaming bowl. Oil it nicely to prevent chicken from steaming. I kept the steamer on a stand inside a pressure pan filled with 2 cups of water. Then placed the marinated chicken on the steamer. Post that close the lid of the cooker but don't put the vent weight. Keep the gas flame in the lowest (sim) and steam for 10-15 minutes. Open the lid and take out the chicken. The chicken should be around 80-90% done. Preserve the water which is there in the bottom to cook the pulao.

5. Wash the pressure cooker and let it heat. Add any neutral oil when hot. Let the oil heat up then fry the steamed chicken for a couple of minutes by turning side. Keep it aside.


6. Now for prepping the rice. You can take any fragrant rice, wash it and let it dry for an hour before cooking

7. In the same oil in the pressure cooker where you shallow fried the chicken, add your spices for tempering - one cardamom, two cloves, 1 inch cinnamon stick and 1/4 tsp shah jeera. 


8.  When the spices are fragrant, add grated ginger and toss it for a minute. Now add the chopped vegetables. Stir fry for a couple of minutes. At this stage if you want you can add cashew nuts and raisins as well.


9. Now add the washed and dried rice. Fold in and fry for a couple of minutes.


10. Add turmeric, salt and sugar. 


11. Now you need to use the reserve stock water from Step No 4. Add double the amount of water to rice ( 2:1). Fold in everything.


12. Now place the chicken thigh in the middle. And add a slitted green chili. Pressure cook it for 2 whistles or till rice is cooked. Let the pressure die out.


13. Open the lid and using a fork fluff the pulao. The simple and easy pulao is done. Serve this with your choice of accompaniments. 



Do let me know how you liked the simple and easy pulao recipe. You can make a good raita or serve this with some fresh salad. The flavors of this chicken are somewhat like Mandi chicken (Get the recipe HERE) but its much simpler to make.  



 



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Iskon Mayapur, Radha Madhav, TOVP
Radha Madhav during Pushya Abhishek on 6th Jan 2023

First of all wish you a very happy new year. I have been away from blogging for a while now as I was visiting my hometown Kolkata and wanted to take things a bit slow and enjoy my time here. There are a couple of places I visited while I am in my hometown and will write one by one about them. One of the places I visited in the very first weekend of 2023 was Iskon Mayapur. This was on my bucket list for long as I had really enjoyed visiting the Iskon temples in Mumbai and Pune. So the beginning of the new year felt like a perfect time to visit this holy place. 

Though one needs to hardly do any planning for visiting the other Iskon temples, for Mayapur you need to have a proper plan in place if you want to get the complete essence of the place, especially if you are visiting Mayapur for the very first time like me. I read a lot of blogs, went through a number of videos to create a detailed plan and schedule of my travel. And you will know why planning is crucial once you go through all the details I have given below. Also I thought it would be good to make a complete summary of the travel plan so that anyone planning to visit Mayapur finds it easy to plan themselves. 

If you are visiting for the first time I would recommend you to stay for at least a night so that your itinerary is not very hurried and you can cover everything at a relaxed pace. I will be talking in details about the overall Mayapur experience in my next blog where we also covered Ghurni and Krishnanagar Rajbari on our way back. This post is mainly for capturing the entire details of Iskon Mayapur which will help you plan your trip. We visited Iskon Mayapur in the first weekend of January 2023, so all the details mentioned below are as per current information.

1. Where to Stay: 

Iskon has several stay options with various tariff ranges, within the campus itself. And without a doubt these are the best options for you, as everything will be within walking distance. Some of the most popular stay options inside the campus are (Rates are as of January 2023):

Name Cost Remarks
Gada Bhavan Rs 500- Rs 5000 Most popular
Chaitanya Bhavan Rs 500 – Rs 1900 Situated in the Brahmachari kitchen
Conch Bhavan Rs 1500 – Rs 6000 Beside Sri Sri Radha Madhab Mandir, most expensive
Gita Bhavan Rs 400 Rupees – Rs 3000 Far away from main campus
Vamsi Bhavan Free for Life Members Beside Ishodyan Bhavan
Isodyan Bhavan Rs 1000 Rupees - Rs 3000 Newest Building, excellent condition, lift present, ICICI ATM, Ample parking space
Namhatta Bhavan 1 and 2 Rs 600- Rs 2500 Right beside the entry gate
Gauranga Kutir Rs 150 Shared bathroom, Cheapest Accommodation
Nityananda Kutir Starts from 300 Rupees Brick rooms, shared toilet
Sruti Bhavan specially made for youth and students
Gour Nitai Dharmashala Starts from Rs 150 Shared bathroom, Location Besides Namhatta Bhavan

The bhavans are maintained very nicely so the condition of the rooms is pretty good. You can book these bhavans online, but at the same time they don’t make all the bhavans available for online booking. 
Booking link: Click Here 

Or else you can go directly to any of these bhavans and try to get a room. I would not recommend that, as mostly the rooms get completely booked weeks in advance. So, if you are travelling with a family or aged folks, it is always better to pre-book.


2. Documents Needed & Bhavan Rules
  • Single traveler is not allowed to stay (They will call you to confirm if on the booking they see 1 Adult mentioned)
  • Visitors must carry a valid government photo ID (Aadhar, Passport, Driving License)
  • No smoking or drinking or any type of intoxication is allowed in the campus (not even milk tea/coffee)
  • Eating or carrying any type of non-vegetarian items inside the campus is strictly forbidden.
  • Playing any mundane music loudly is not allowed within the campus.
  • Married couples must have marriage registration certificate or legally matching IDs with them to avail accommodations
  • Life Member discount is not applicable on online bookings
  • No Pets are allowed inside the campus
  • Check In – 9:00 AM & Check Out – 9:00 AM
3. Dress Code inside Iskon

There is no specific dress code mandated. However, it is advisable to wear modest clothes since it is a religious place. Also dress according to the season. During winter months it gets extremely chilly.

4. Best Season to Visit
Though Mayapur can be visited year long, its recommended to avoid Summers because of the heat and you need to do a lot of walking around the campus. So best season will be from August to March.

5. Best Time of the Week to Visit
Weekends are especially crowded as well as if there is any special religious festival at the campus. So, if you prefer it to be less crowded go on weekdays or Fridays. We went on Friday and came back on Saturday. 
However there is a Elephant procession that happens on Saturday evening, so if you want to attend that, then stay back on Saturday.

6. Mayapur Climate
The hottest month in Mayapur, April, has days with highs of 41°C and lows of 24°C. The coldest month, January has days with highs of 25°C and lows of 8°C. If you are travelling in December or January, make sure to take enough warm clothes, especially puffer jackets/wind cheaters. The night temperature is unusually cold even within the hotel premises. Mayapur receives very heavy rainfall. Although the rain brings the temperature down by a few notches, several areas witness waterlogging during this time.

7. How to Travel from Kolkata
There are a couple of ways to travel to Mayapur.

Train : If you are travelling from Kolkata then you can either choose to board a local train from Sealdah/ Howrah (primary) and/or Dum Dum Junction/ Kolkata (secondary) stations.

  • From Sealdah:  Train ticket Fare Rs 25 per person
    • You need to take a local train to Krishnanagar City Junction. 
    • From outside the station 1st option is to take a direct auto or toto to Mayapur Iskon. This will take about 50 minutes through the highway and would cost around Rs350-Rs400.
    • The 2nd option is to take a shared or direct toto/auto to the Mayapur Ghat. This will cost around Rs 200 (direct) or Rs 60/per person (shared). Time taken around 30 minutes. 
    • Once you reach Mayapur Ghat, you can take a ferry ticket costing Rs 3 per person to cross the river and reach the other side which is called Hulor ghat. It will hardly take 5 mins to cross the river.
    • After that either you walk to the Iskon temple or take a direct/shared toto to the Iskon temple. Total time would be around 40-50 minutes.
    • The 3rd option is to take a direct bus from the Krishnanagar City Jn to Mayapur Iskon temple
  • From Howrah: Train ticket Fare Rs 25 per person
    • You need to take a local train to Nawadip Dham. 
    • From outside the station take a toto/auto to Mayapur Ghat. After that, cross the river in a ferry to reach Hular Ghat at Mayapur. Then either walk to the temple or take a toto/auto to reach the temple.
Bus: WBSTC operates daily 2 buses from Esplanade to Mayapur Iskcon Temple. \It also gives a stop at Airport Gate 1. They go till right inside the campus, beside Vamshi Bhavan Guesthouse.

Booking Website : Click Here

Bus Timings

Car: You can easily access Mayapur by road, which is located at a distance of around 130 km from Kolkata. 
  • Route 1: Kolkata - Ranaghat - Mayapur (fastest)
  • Route 2: Kolkata - Dhaniakhali – Mayapur
Please note the road condition is not that great in many stretches, so travelling by your own car may not be a very comfortable experience.

8. Food
Non-veg items are not allowed inside Iskon Campus. Even milk tea or milk coffee is not available inside. Outside the campus also you will hardly get a handful of places serving non-veg. So come mentally prepared for that. Below are some of the food options:
  • Prasadam: Almost all the bhavans have prasadam options both for lunch and dinner. The cost of prasadam is different for every bhavan. Reach your bhavan before 12 PM to get a confirmed prasadam coupon for lunch. And for dinner you need to get the coupon by 6-6.30 PM.
  • Govindas: Govinda’s restaurant is open from 7:30am. to 9:00pm. It offers different Indian and continental option. Fresh pizza is available during dinner time and south Indian dishes like dosas is available during breakfast hours. Its a relatively pricy place compared to other food joints inside the campus.
  • Radha Madhava's Mahaprasad Restaurant: Here you can get tea, pasta, pizza, cakes, burgers, dosa, idli, ice cream, fruit juices, lunch, Mahaprasad, and many other items. It is very near to Ishodyan Bhavan
  • Santa's Pizzeria - This place serves freshly made pizzas. The reviews are great but we did not have time to visit this place.
  • Small Food stalls: Apart from the restaurants there are small food stalls spread across the campus selling Panipuri, juices, cakes, pastries, momo, masala tea, dosa, vada, water etc. We had panipuri from a stall near Ishodyan bhavan and it was delicious. If you really crave for milk tea the closest counterpart you will get is the masala tea which is milk infused with many herbs and spices. We had this at Karuna Kitchen near Prabhupada Pushpa Samadhi.
9. Facilities within Campus
  • Washrooms: There are many public washrooms across the campus which you can avail at free. 
  • Drinking Water stations: Filtered drinking water booths are located near all main buildings.
  • Shoe Counter : There are designated shoe counters beside all the main temples. You can keep shoe for free. They will give you a sack in which you need to place your shoes and hand it over. Though they do not charge for it, you can give a donation in the donation boxes present in the counter.
  • Baggage Counter : There are a very baggage counters e.g near Govindas, where you can keep your bigger luggage (suitcases etc.) at a modest charge of Rs 10. 
  • Mobile/Camera Counter : Mobiles are not allowed within any of the temples, you can keep your mobile and cameras at the mobile counter for Rs 10.
  • Car/bike Parking : Parking spots are available across the campus at specific places
  • Wifi in rooms (selected bhavans) – We got wifi in rooms in Ishodyan bhavan
  • Grocery Store: There is a grocery store at walking distance from Ishodyan bhavan named Simply Wonderful Grocery Store. 
10. What to see within Iskon Campus

You can refer to the maps image below to see the location of these places inside the campus. 
  • TOVP ( New Chandrodaya temple) [A & B] - The Temple of Vedic Planetarium in West Bengal's Mayapur will be the world's largest temple and scheduled to open to the public in 2025. The temple is being built at an estimated cost of $100 million and can house about 10,000 devotees on each of its floors, where they can sing, pray and dance in front of Lord Krishna.The temple is envisioned by Acharya Prabhupada, who wanted a structure that would spread awareness about Vedic science. Right now its stil in construction phase, but they have a daily tour of the ground floor where you can get an idea of how big a project this is.
  • Sri Sri Radha Madhab Mandir (Old Chandrodaya temple) [C] - This is the main temple. Radha Madhav temple is also known as the Chandrodaya Mandir on the main altar are the presiding deities: the beautiful larger than life size Sri Sri Radha Madhav, surrounded by Their Ashta-sakhis , and Narshimadev, PanchTatva and his Divine Grace A. C Bhaktivedanta is presiding inside the temple in different altars . Once TOVP is ready, the idols will be shifted inside TOVP which is the new Chandrodaya Mandir.
  • Gaushala [D] - The ISKCON Mayapur Goshala is located in the south-east corner of the Mayapur campus. It is a happy home for more than 200 cows, bulls and calves. Here you can touch the cows and feed them specially made laddus. These laddus cannot be bought. You can give any amount of donation in lieu of which you will get some laddus which you can feed the cows. There is also a store at the ground floor where you can relish some of the dairy products and purchase ghee etc.
  • Mayapur Full Dome theater [E] - A few religious movies are shown everyday inside the 360 degree dome and gives a complete immersive experience.
  • Srila Prabhupada Pushpa Samadhi & Museum [F] - A memorial dedicated to the founder of ISKCON, Srila Prabhupada, the Pushpa Samadhi Mandir is one of the most iconic places inside the campus. The complex includes a grand main shrine surrounded by a museum depicting the life of Srila Prabhupada.
  • Bhajan Kutir [G]- When you walk in through the “main gate”, on the immediate left is the straw hut where Srila Prabhupada stayed from 1972 to 1976 while the first main building (the Lotus Building) was built.
 


11. Temple & Show Timings
  • Sri Sri Radha Madhava temple:
    • Mangala-arati: 4:30am (Temple closed from 5:30AM – 7 AM)
    • Darsana-arati: 7:00am
    • Class on Srimad-Bhagavatam (English and Bengali separately): 8:00am
    • Bhoga Offering : 11:45 AM
    • Bhoga-arati: 12 noon (Temple closed from 1:00PM – 4:00PM)
    • Dhoopa Aarti : 4:00 PM
    • Sandhya-arati: 6:00pm
    • Class on Bhagavad-gita (Bengali): 7:30pm 
    • Shayana Aarti : 8.15 PM (Temple closed from 8:30PM – 4:30AM)
  • Srila Prabhupada’s Pushpa Samadhi Mandir
    • Srila Prabhupada arati: 4:00am
    • Srila Prabhupada Guru Puja : 7:30am
    • Bhoga-arati : 12:15pm
    • Sandhya-arati : 6:00pm
  • Boat Ride on Ganges/ Gaga Aarti : 
    • Ganga boat ride every evening is one of the other main attraction. You can go for these rides to see Ganga aarti, kirtan by the prabhus and triveni sangam darshan. Tickets need to be bought by afternoon. The boat ride starts around 4PM and it a one hour ride.
  • Full Dome Show timings: 
The full dome planetarium theater is a major attraction in Iskon Mayapur. Located close to Govinda’s restaurant on the ISKCON Mayapur campus, it’s twelve meters in diameter, has 108 comfortable inclined theater seats, and features a tilted dome to give audiences a 360-degree immersive experience.
The theater is currently hosting two films. The first, entitled “The Churning,” offers a unique look at the Srimad-Bhagavatam pastime of “Samudra Manthan,” or the churning of the Ocean of Milk by the demigods and demons to produce Amrit, a nectar that would make them invincible. This show utilizes classic paintings from Srila Prabhupada’s books mixed with 3D graphics.

The second film, 9 Steps to Eternity, explores the nine islands of Navadvipa, and the corresponding nine forms of devotional service to the Lord. It uses parallax motion effects against a surreal computer-generated cosmic universe. However when we visited in Jan 2023, the second film show was suspended.

Samudramanthan - The Churning 9 Step eternity (was suspended for time being)
10.10 10.50
11.30 12.10
12.50 13.30
14.10 14.50
15.30 16.10
16.50 17.30
18.10 18.50
19.30 20.10


12. What to see in Mayapur

For local sightseeing of Mayapur Town, one can hire a toto from right outside the campus. A 2 hr tour can cost anything between INR 400-500 (depending on negotiation). Following are some of the places they will take you to: 
  • Chaitanya Mahaprabhu’s birthplace - established by Bhaktivinoda Thakur in 1880s and houses the neem tree under which Prabhu is said to be born as Nimai
  • Chaitanya Math - which is Prabhu’s aunt’s place and has a beautiful pond where one can feed the huge fishes swimming in the pristine water
  • Ballal Dhipi - which holds spectacular ruins of what is known to have been a citadel dating back to the 12th century CE. It is a mound-like structure that spans over 1, 300 square feet and rises to more than 30 feet in height
  • Chand Kazi Samadhi : Chand Kazi was recognized as the magistrate of Nabadwip who went against the Harinam Sankirtana movement in Mayapur and destroyed the mridanga of Srivash Pandit, who was the leader of the Sankritana. He believed in the Islam religion. This Samadhi stands strong to celebrate his turning into a faithful follower of Shree Chaitanya Prabhu.
  • Nabadwip - birthplace of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu there are many religious spots you can visit here. It will take half a day to visit all the spots.

13. What to buy

Within the campus there are many stores where you can buy souvenirs of all varieties—Krishna idols, trinkets, prayer tools, framed photos, bags, idol clothes, flutes, ghee, jewelry, handicrafts and books. Also Mahaprasadam (dry packed prasad) is available in prasadam stalls for purchase. Outside the campus there are many markets where you will get souvenirs, dresses, restaurants, flower shops, fruit shops etc. 




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Last year when I was in Kolkata for my annual vacation time, I could spend prolonged time at my hometown. Because of the work from home policy, for the first time after I left home for my job, I could spend so much time back at home. And once you stay for so long you start understanding what you have been missing staying away from your home state. Like almost every weekends we would go and spend time at my relatives, there would be long adda sessions just like the old times when I was in my teens. It would be so good spending time talking with others instead of being glued to the phone or laptop. 

Then there would be the trips of the local produce markets. Kolkata has undoubtedly some of the best produce market in the whole country. The moment you step into one you will be bedazzled with the vast variety of fresh vegetables, fruits and fishes. The sheer variety of leafy vegetables itself is such a temptation, mainly because in Pune where I live, the variety is limited to maximum 3-4 varieties at a time. I think more than going out for sightseeing in Kolkata I love visiting the produce markets. For a foodie like me, they are literally a temptation central. 

The third thing is definitely the availability of infinite choices of street food. You would get the most exotic flatbreads and curries even in your neighborhood food shack. I would often get rumali rotis and chicken chaap packed from my nearest food shack and it was super delicious. You are really spoilt for choices I food when you are in Kolkata. I wonder how people manage to maintain their weights, because the moment I see all those street food I am tempted to eat them all! And best part, it is cheap. Street food in Kolkata would not burn a hole in your pocket but definitely make you full. 

And not only street foods, since you have so many relatives around whenever you visit their home you get treated to delicious home made food. Some of them which I had not had in like million years. Just like the dish called Muri ghonto - a signature dish in Bengali cuisine. Muri or Muro in Bengali means fishhead. So Muri ghonto literally translates to fish head medley. Traditionally there are a couple of ways to make it - either the crispy fried fish head is cooked with rice like a biryani or it is cooked with daal. Muri ghonto is typically considered to be a side dish and is had along with rice. So in yesteryears it was also made with chide or poha (flattened rice) instead of rice. I think the recipe originated to utilize the leftover fish heads in the household in older days. Our great grandmas and grandmas were really pro chefs who could think of making such amazing lip smacking dishes from even leftover ingredients. And Bengali cuisine is full of many such traditional recipes which were born out of the need to use leftover produce. 



To be honest, I had only head about muri ghonto before but never got the chance to taste it. Since the cooking process for this recipe is a little elaborated and many a times the fish heads are the most under rated things, gradually not many households used to make these old elaborate recipes on daily basis. So last year when I was visiting one of my masis home and she informed that my dida (grandma) was making muri ghonto for us that day I was really excited. And I was so ill informed about this dish that I had thought muri ghonto was like other ghontos where you would make a medley of some veggies and masalas and add the fish head to it. But at the lunch table when my dida served the muri ghonto, to my surprise it had rice in it.  I was a little flabbergasted for a few seconds, I was trying to understand how to eat a rice dish as a side with steamed rice. But then I decided what the heck, let me just try it on its own first. So i took the very first spoonful of it and was totally taken aback by the flavourful dish. Rich in spices, the flavour of the fried fish head was like the perfect match with the aromatic gobindobhog rice. To the uninitiated the combination of fish head in rice might sound a little weird but believe me it was really a match made in heaven and you wont understand how good it tastes unless you eat the version made by someone's grandma. Yes that's right, you just cannot bring the magic into this dish that your grandma would! 

But I was not gonna let that deter me from making this myself. So once I was back in Pune I asked my mom to get the recipe from grandma once again ( because I had forgotten when she had told me) and decided to go all in for it. How bad can it be was what I was thinking when I made it. And surprisingly it turned out amazing even at the first try. I was so overjoyed by it that I made it again a couple of times and each time loved it more. So I am now sharing this recipe with you all. While I would still say this definitely would not measure upto what your grandma would probably make but still it is worth the try - at least you will be able to keep a traditional recipe going and help it not get lost in the folds of time. I have added raisin and cashew in this recipe because I liked the taste. But traditionally they are not added so you can skip it. Also if you would have noticed from the title itself this is a pressure cooker method I have used just to make your lives easier and believe it the consistency turned out great. But if you have enough time at hand then go for a kadai method by all means. At the last step instead of pressure cooker use the kadai and cook it.

Marination Time : 10 minutes
Preparation Time : 10 minutes
Cooking Time : 30 minutes

Serves - 2 adults

Ingredients :
  • Catla Fish Head - 4 half pieces
  • Gobindobhog/ Ambemohar Rice - 200 gm
  • Onion - 1 medium sized, chopped
  • Potato - 1 big, cubed
  • Garlic Cloves - 8-9 or 1 tsp
  • Ginger - 1 1/2 inch or 1 tsp
  • Dried Red Chili - 3
  • Bay Leaf - 2
  • Kismis (Raisin) - 15-20 (Optional)
  • Kaju (Cashew) - 8-10 (Optional)
  • Cardamom - 3
  • Cinnamon stick - 1 inch
  • Cloves - 2-3
  • Jeera Powder - 1 tsp
  • Dhaniya (Coriander) powder - 1 tsp
  • Kashmiri Red Chili powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Turmeric powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Garam Masala powder - 1 pinch (optional)
  • Green Chili - 2-3 slitted
  • Ghee - 1 1/2 tsp + 1 tsp
  • Mustard Oil - 1/3 cup
  • Salt - as per taste
  • Sugar - as per taste
  • Warm water - as needed


Procedure:

1. Take the fish head from a big Catla or a paka mach as we say in Bengali. For this recipe I had taken the head of a Catla fish which weighed around 1.5 to 2 Kg. Clean the head thoroughly. If you want to keep the gills you can clean it and keep them too. Marinate the clean fish heads with 1/2 tsp of turmeric, salt and 1/2 tsp of mustard oil. Let it rest for 10-15 minutes.

2. Now wash the rice till the water runs clear. Drain the water and place the washed rice in a sieve with small pores. Place a bowl below to collect any excess water. Let it air dry. Or put it under a fan. The sieve will help in better air circulation and dry the rice easily. It will take around 30 minutes for the rice to dry.

3. Make a paste of the ginger and garlic. Chop the onions finely. Keep aside.

4. To make the masala paste in a bowl take turmeric, red chili powder, jeera powder, dhaniya powder and garam masala powder. Add 2 tbsp of water, give it a good mix and let the masala paste rest for 10-15 minutes before using it.

5. Heat mustard oil in a Kadai. When the oil is hot fry the marinated fish heads in batches till it is a little browned on both sides. Keep it aside.

6. In the same oil fry the cubed potatoes till the sides start getting some color. We don't need to completely cook the potatoes at this stage. Keep aside. 

7. Now take mustard oil and 1 tsp ghee in a Kadai and heat it. Once the oil is hot, add the Kaju and Kismis. Fry on medium heat for about a minute. Now add the airdried rice. Fry for about 1-2 minutes on medium heat. Take out the fried rice with kaju and kismis in a separate bowl. 

Note: Please note Kaju & kismis is totally optional. It is not traditionally added to muri ghonto, but I like the sweetness from the kismis and the crunch of the kaju in the final version hence I added these.



8. Now top up the mustard oil and 1 tsp ghee in the same Kadai and heat it. Once the oil is hot, toss in the bay leaves, whole red chili (break the chili and add), cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. Give it a toss till fragrant. 

9. Add the chopped onions and a pinch of salt. Fry till the onions are slightly browned. 


10. Add the ginger garlic paste. Sauté till the raw smell is gone.


11. Now add the masala paste that you had made in Step 4. Give it a good stir. Cook the masalas till oil separates. 


12. Add the fried fish heads and fried potato cubes into the masala. Fold everything in so that the fish heads are coated in the masala. Fry for 2 minutes. 


13. Now add the fried rice you prepared in step 7. Fold everything in. If you like break the fish heads at this point. I liked to keep them fairly whole so that it is easy to fish them out while serving.


14. I made this recipe in a pressure cooker/pan so amount of water is very important here. We do not want a completely dry or a completely mushy texture at the end. Transfer the whole thing from the Kadai to the pressure cooker/pan. Add exactly 2 times the water of the amount of rice you had taken and then add about 1/4 cup of more water. For me this was the perfect water ratio. Throw 2-3 slitted green chili. Stir in 1 tsp of ghee and a pinch of garam masala powder. Close the lid and pressure cook it for two whistles. Let the rice sit for a while without any flame before you open the lid. 



Usually Muri ghonto is considered a side dish which is served with steamed rice. But I had added more rice to make this muri ghonto because I wanted to have it as is, somewhat like a pulao. I had it with fresh salad.


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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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