Curries & Stories: Meghalaya Travelogue

Shnongpdeng

" It feels good to be lost in the right direction"

- Long Blog Alert -

I am starting the Meghalaya Blog Series with a overall trip summary giving the complete details of our route, stay details, vehicle details and few important and helpful pointers. It is going to be a long post but I am sure this is going to help you in planning your trip. The detailed day wise trip dairy will start next.

I am just back from a 9 Days trip to Meghalaya and it is such an incredible place to be in! This was a trip after almost 2.5 years and my heart feels super happy at this moment. A much needed detox from everything around especially after the sad demise of a near one.

During Pre-Covid days, a vacation was something which I would usually start planning a couple of months ahead so that I had ample time to figure out the places, stay options, logistics etc. But this Meghalaya trip happened almost on a whim. Till September I was in Pune and didn't have even the foggiest idea about a vacation that would take place in the North East.

During the Covid times since we couldn't travel physically so I found solace in travelling mentally through the videos and travelogues of fellow bloggers. Earlier Kritika Goel was one of my favorite Indian traveler. But recently my mother introduced me to Harish Bali's channel and I was hooked. I started loving his content more so because he would also cover the local cuisines of the place he was visiting. Frankly earlier when I used to travel my entire focus was on the sightseeing, food was a secondary thing. But during pandemic we all became chefs in some way or the other and for me I discovered a whole new interest in various local cuisines of our country. So I was determined that whenever my next travel was going to happen I would surely be looking out for tasting local cuisines..

Inception:

Just by coincidence I had started watching the Meghalaya series by Harish Bali and was already mesmerized by the beauty of the land. So when my cousin's family suggested we should go for a getaway when I am in Kolkata my default suggestion was Meghalaya. Assam was the second option, again based on what I saw in Harish Bali's video.

So we kept toying with these two places and decided to do a little deep dive about the weather, sightseeing and stay options.

Umiam Lake

How to start Planning?

Meghalaya and other North Eastern states still remain a little offbeat to the tourists of other parts of India. Mainly because of the history of tension in these regions and sometimes due to the lack of awareness about the region.

I would recommend make Google your best friend when you start researching for any place. I did the same and it gave me a very high level idea of the number of divisions and districts of Meghalaya.

Next was to get some genuine suggestion from travelers who have been to that place or local folks. There are two ways to do this.

1. Look up videos of bloggers on Youtube who have been to Meghalaya ( e.g I referred to the series by Harish Bali and Kritika Goel) and note down the places you liked in their videos.

2. Post a question on Trip advisor forum, mentioning a tentative number of days you want to be there, number of members in the group, age group, location/activity preferences, food preferences(if any). The more structured your question is the more chances of getting good responses. In Tripadvisor there are people who are experienced in certain regions and are known as local guides. They are usually very helpful and will help you plan your trip and give you other necessary information.

Here is the link to my question thread in Trip Advisor Forum which helped me prepare for my trip:

Click HERE to view the entire conversation.

Best Season To visit Meghalaya:

Best Season : The best time to visit Meghalaya is between the months of October to April. The landscape is still all green from the rains. The day temperature is moderate and nights are usually chilly. It is the time when the famous autumn festivals start in various parts of Meghalaya.
If you are a rain lover: Visit Meghalaya from July till September if you want to experience the full monsoon. Considered to be the wettest place on the Earth, the state receives heavy rainfall. Rainfall adds to the charm to the place and makes it look all the more beautiful. But, it is not the best season to visit because the heavy rainfall hampers your excursion to top tourist destinations in Meghalaya, especially you will find most of the waterfalls covered in fog.
If you want to escape the summers in the plains: Planning Meghalaya holiday in summer from April to June offers an ideal escape from the scorching heat. The temperature in many parts of the state never goes beyond 28°C. Mornings are as pleasant as evenings.

Basic Info about the state:

Located in North-east India, Meghalaya, also known as the Abode of Clouds, falls in one of the richest biodiversity areas in the world. The famed monsoons, the rich traditional festivals, and the dramatic terrain are just some of the many things this state is famous for. Whether you are looking for an adventure to give you an adrenaline high or a tranquil spot to recharge yourself, Meghalaya has plenty to offer.

Meghalaya has 11 districts, divided into three divisions, which are as follows:

Khasi Hills Division:

East Khasi Hills (Shillong)
West Khasi Hills (Nongstoin)
South West Khasi Hills (Mawkyrwat)
Ri-Bhoi (Nongpoh)

Garo Hills Division:

North Garo Hills (Resubelpara)
East Garo Hills (Williamnagar)
South Garo Hills (Baghmara)
West Garo Hills (Tura)
South West Garo Hills (Ampati)

Jaintia Hills Division

West Jaintia Hills (Jowai)
East Jaintia Hills (Khliehriat)

Meghalaya is inhabited by many distinct tribes, the most prominent being the Khasis, the Garos, and the Pnars. A visit to Meghalaya will be incomplete without some cultural experiences. The best time to observe traditional practices and imagery is during the main festivals.

In every division there are several 'not to be missed' points. This was going to be a once in a lifetime trip for us so we wanted to touch each of the 3 divisions at least once.

So the final plan looked like this :

Kolkata--> Shillong( 2 nights) --> Shnongpdeng( 2 nights) --> Sohra(Cherrapunji)( 2 nights)-->Nongstoin-->Tura( 2 nights)**--> Shillong( 1 night)--> Kolkata

The detailed trip dairy will start in the next blog posts. Keep tuned!

** Tura/ Garo Hills is a world in itself and 2 nights doesn't do justice if you really want to explore Garo hills. Its recommended you do a separate trip just to explore Garo hills or at least keep aside 4-5 days for this part of the state.

A broad route map that we followed

Tourism Places

Post Covid Travel Mandates ( as of Dec 2021):

1. Generate E-invite :

All travelers who wish to visit the State of Meghalaya, will need to mandatorily register on the Meghalaya Tourism App and generate an E-Invite for the proposed itinerary. The Meghalaya Tourism App is available on both the GOOGLE PLAY STORE and the APPLE STORE. The E-Invite can be generated on this WEBSITE.

This is a mandatory step. We saw many tourist didn't know about this and they had to do this after arriving at the Shillong airport. Without a valid approved e-invite you will not be allowed to enter the state. So its better to do it before the start of your travel. You need to fill the details of all the passengers, ID proof, address, details of your stay in Meghalaya for the first two nights at least etc. So the list is long, if you fill it before you land, then the check out of airport will be much smoother.

Note: Only 1 e-invite containing the details of all passengers in the group is needed. It will be checked at the Shillong airport along with the double vaccination certificate / RTPCR certificate.

2. Carry double vaccination/ RTPCR report

Tourists who are fully vaccinated will be allowed entry into the State.

Tourists who are vaccinated with a single dose and minors in the age group between 11-18 years who are accompanying adult tourists will have to produce negative RT-PCR/TruNat/CBNAAT report which will be valid only if they have tested within 72 hours prior to their arrival at the entry point.

3. Carry valid ID proof for all members ( aadhar card, driving license etc.)

Your IDs need to be furnished when you are checking into a hotel so carry the ID proofs

4. Carry multiple printed copies of E-invite and double vaccination/ RTPCR report

Starting from the airport to your hotels, checkpoints etc. you will be asked to produce these documents time and again. So keep at least 5-6 copies of these documents for each individual. Even at entry to some parks like Ward's Lake the vaccination report was checked.

5. Keep the Checkout Bill from hotels/homestays till the end of travel

There are places where you will get some check points on the road - like while coming from Tura to Shillong we passed through Assam and when we entered Meghalaya we had to furnish the proof of our stay. So keep the checkout bills from your hotels/homestays handy.

6. Regarding Mask Usage

The Covid situation is pretty much under control in this state hence at many remote locations you can safely travel without wearing a mask. But it is always recommended when you are in any crowded place like Shillong or local markets always wear a mask.

Krang Shuri Waterfall

Logistics: This is very important part of the travel.

Flight : Flights are not that costly in this route and also there is a direct flight from Kolkata to Shillong operated by Indigo (ATR). Approximately 2 hours of flying time. You will land in one of the most scenic and quaint airports of our country

Train: We wanted to save on time hence we opted for flights but you can checkout train details in the IRCTC website.

Car ( for local sightseeing): We got the car from the office of my relative so I do not have a contact number.

Total Amount charged per day = Rs. 5000 ( Innova) and for Tura charge was : Rs 6000 (going and coming)

Accommodation Details ( 9 nights 10 days) :

Total Trip Cost / person : 20000 ( stay + food+ car) + 7000 (flight) approximately

1. Shillong ( 3 nights)

Name : Hotel Poinisukh
Location: Laitumkhrah Main Rd
Room : Delux Double room ( 2 pax / room) with breakfast and dinner included
Cost: booked by Relative's Company hence not aware of the cost.
Food Info : Breakfast is quite filling with a combination of south Indian and continental choices. Veg and non veg both options available in breakfast. They have 2 different in house restaurants serving an assortment of cuisines. Chinese preparations are a must try.
Charging Points : Ample charging points for charging phone, camera battery etc.
Hot water: Geyser available
In House Restaurant: Yes
Vaccine Report Check : Yes
Photo ID check : Yes
Wifi Available : Yes

2. Shnongpedeng ( 2 night)

Name : Brightstar tents and homestay( 2 pax per room) with breakfast
Location: Shnongpdeng
Details: They have both tents and structured building for stay options. We took 3 rooms in the building. It has 2 floors. Upper floor has two double occupancy rooms. Two washrooms are detached from the room but in the same floor. Both with Commode facility. Lower floor has two quad ( 4 pax) occupancy rooms with attached bathrooms. It also has commode facility.
Room 1 : Upper floor - Rs 2500 - detached bathroom - 2 pax - breakfast included
Room 2: Upper floor - Rs 2500 - detached bathroom - 2 pax - breakfast included
Room 3: Lower floor - Rs 2000 - attached bathroom - 4 pax - breakfast included
Website: https://www.facebook.com/Bright-Star-Camps-Home-Stay-Shnongpdeng-Village-Tourist-Place-636218953252889
Contact Number: 7005177829 / 8974227204/ 8787318215
Contact person : Micky
Food Info : Micky can arrange thalis for you in Dinner. There are also a couple of small food shacks serving Thalis ( fish, veg, chicken etc.) at nominal at walking distance from this place. If you are looking for some fancy food, there is a resort named Betlenut at a 2-3 minutes driving distance from this camp.
Food Cost : Nominal cost at about 150-250 / thali depending on what you choose.
Charging Points : Ample charging points for charging phone, camera battery etc.
Hot water: Geyser available
Additional Info : Micky arranges for all the sports activity you want to do at an additional cost
Vaccine Report Check : No
Photo ID check : No
Wifi Available : No

3. Sohra (Cherrapunji ) (2 nights)

Name : Abode of Clouds ( 2 pax per room) with breakfast
Location: Sohra-Shella Road, Seven Sister Falls is at walking distance
Details: Standalone Cottages overlooking beautiful vast landscape. Sunrise is stunning. If you love solitude this is the place to be. We took 3 cottages with double occupancy each.
Room : Rs 3000 - 2 pax - breakfast included
Website: https://www.facebook.com/Bright-Star-Camps-Home-Stay-Shnongpdeng-Village-Tourist-Place-636218953252889
Contact Number: 8787724200 ( whatsapp)/ 8118932889
Contact person : Who ever is at front desk will answer
In House Restaurant: Yes
Food Info : You will get a choice of Indian and Chinese dishes. Both veg and non veg available. Order at the front desk by 7 PM to get an early dinner.
Food Cost : Prices are like any standard restaurant.
Charging Points : Limited charging points for charging phone, camera battery etc. Take an extension board if required.
Hot water: Geyser available
Additional Info : They can arrange for a super early packed breakfast if needed. Usually the chef comes by 4 PM so if you are planning to stay in at lunch time, you might not be able to order food in the in house restaurant.
Vaccine Report Check : Yes
Photo ID check : Yes
Wifi Available : Did not check

4. Tura ( 2 nights)

Name : Dongrama homestay with breakfast
Details: They have one cottage which can accommodate up to 4 adults ( 1 double bed, 1 sofa cum bed and many sofas ) and one double room (twin beds) with double occupancy. Standard Breakfast is complimentary. Special breakfast ( local traditional food) can be ordered at additional cost.
Room 1 : In the main house where host stays - Rs 2000 - attached bathroom - 2 pax - breakfast included
Room 2: Standalone Cottage - Rs 3000 for 2 people and Rs 500 per extra guest ( 4 pax = 4000)- attached bathroom - 4 pax - breakfast included
Website: https://www.facebook.com/Dongrama-Homestay-319917645266663/
Contact Number: 8414803502 (whatsapp)/ 8787404158/ 9436108456
Contact person : Oswin Momin
Food Info : Oswin and his wife always encourages visitors to taste the local traditional fare at their place. We opted for total traditional dishes and they were really superb. Both vegetarian and non vegetarian ( fish, chicken, pork) can be arranged by them. The cooking is done in house by some amazing local ladies.
Food Cost : Nominal cost at about 150-250 / thali depending on what you choose.
Charging Points : Ample charging points for charging phone, camera battery etc.
Additional Info : Mr Oswin is a superhost who arranges different sightseeing activities you want to do at an additional cost. If you happen to turn up at their property on a weekend, he personally takes you around and even takes some amazing Drone shots while you are at the sightseeing points. He can also arrange for some experiential activities like tribal dance, tribal wine making process etc. if you request in advance. All these activities can be enjoyed at an additional cost. The property itself is so beautiful that you wont mind spending a day or two just lazing around the property and the quaint surroundings. They have a stunning garden ( Mr Oswin's mother in law is an avid plant lover) with some unique produce which you can check out as well.
Vaccine Report Check : No
Photo ID check : No
Wifi Available : Did not check

Tura Peak

Important Tips and Pointers:

1. Fix the start and end date of the trip and book your flight tickets in advance. This will give you some cost benefit. Usually booking a month in advance is recommended.

2. Look for some special festivals or events in the regions you are travelling so that you can plan your visits accordingly. (We missed the Wangala festival in Tura just by a couple of days as I had not accounted for it during booking flights)

3. Prefer to stay in homestays wherever possible, it will give you a good opportunity to interact with the hosts and get some experience of their culture.

4. Try tasting local produce and cuisines as much as you can. You will not get these anywhere else. Sometimes if you ask the homestay owners they also arrange it for you.

5. Mobile Network is very choppy in almost whole of Meghalaya. Jio works in almost all the regions, though signal strength is not very good at many places. Idea/Vodaphone and Airtel service is very transient and most of the times there was no tower.

6. Meghalaya is a safe place for travelling, even if its a group of ladies or a group in which senior citizens are travelling.

7. Keep cash handy. Though in Meghalaya you will find ample ATMs everywhere, still it is recommended to carry ample cash with you.

8. If you are planning to work from location, then do check about the wi-fi availability. Usually all hotels have wifi, but very few homestays provide wifi.

9. Experiencing local cuisines, local cultural activities are arranged at a cost. Check with your hosts about the cost before you avail them because at times they are pricy.

10. Contrary to what we might think from the photos, there are many places in Meghalaya which you can enjoy with senior citizens too. So pick the places accordingly and do prior research. Some waterfalls would be easy to walk down but some of them are very difficult. So in those places its better you let the senior citizens be in the car and wait.

11. Carry walking sticks (whether you have senior citizens or not). They are extremely helpful in navigating the infinite number of steps ( and believe me there are infinite number of steps everywhere!) especially at every waterfall viewpoint. You will also get walking sticks at the entry point of such viewpoints, make sure to ask at the ticket counter ( not many know about this)

12. Carry enough water with you in the car. The amount of hike you will be doing each day it is important to keep yourself hydrated.

13. If you have motion sickness, then do carry some tablets like avomine or ondem. Especially if you are taking the Nongstoin road to Tura, the road is full of curves and bends and you will feel dizzy.

14. Choose stays which offer at least the breakfast complimentary. That way you will save some money.

15. If you are taking the Indigo Flight ( Kolkata to Shillong) , note that its an ATR plane ( small plane ) with only single exit at the back. So choose the seats at the back for easier entry and exit.

16. Usually ATR flights are less crowded so it may happen that you see the seats in the very first row empty ( XL seats). The airhostess asks a random passenger to sit in the front seat since they are emergency seats and cant be kept empty. If you happen to notice they are empty you can check with the airhostess to occupy them and get a free upgrade to XL seats. We got the upgrade both the times.

Useful links:

1. https://www.meghalayatourism.in/

Comes handy to check out the list of all places you should visit, approved homestay and hotels, event calendar, guidelines etc.

2. https://app.meghalayatourism.in/tourist/

Generate the E-invite in this website

3. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xlayer.meg.gov.tourism

https://apps.apple.com/in/app/meghalaya-tourism/id1524458250

Download the Meghalaya tourism App in GOOGLE PLAY STORE and the APPLE STORE

The opportunities are infinite you just need to plan according to your taste to get the best out of Meghalaya.

The Meghalaya blog series has started. They mostly will be long travelogues but I hope you will love them. Below are the links.

Other Blogs in this series: