Meghayala Travelogue - Day 2 (Part 1): Laitlum Canyon, Cathedral Catholic Church and Elephant Falls

Elephant Falls

Continued from Day 1..

We visited Meghalaya at such a time when tourism was just reopening after the long Covid shutdown. The already beautiful vistas of Meghalaya seemed more untouched with very few tourists around. 

We started Day 2 as decided but almost 30 minutes late than planned time. As mentioned in the previous blog, the plan for the day was that we would split up in 2 groups - 

• Group 1 would go for the Mawryngkhang Trek. We heard that it takes about 4 -5 hours to complete it and hence once they complete the trek they would join group 2 where ever we were at that point in time.
• Group 2 would start with Laitlum Canyon, come back to hotel for breakfast, wash and change and then proceed with the local sightseeing.

Group 1 comprised of my cousin and his mother. And the rest four of us were in Group 2. Since I was not part of group 1 hence I do not have a first hand experience of how the overall trek was. However I would jot down some of the overview from what I heard from my cousin and some nice pictures which will give you a glimpse of the terrain in the next blog in this series. 

Laitlum Canyon

Laitlum Canyon:

• Entry Fee : Rs 50 / group
• Parking Available : Yes
• Covid Document Check : No
• Mask Mandatory: No

From Harish Bali's Meghalaya video and other bloggers videos it was very apparent that Laitlum canyon looks like a paradise if you visit it in the wee hours of the morning in monsoon season. Since we were not visiting during the rains I thought that at least if we can be there by 6 AM we would be able to see some clouds in the valley. Accordingly I told the time to the group and no one seemed to be excited by it. Finally I managed them to all agree that we should be at the spot by 6.30 AM. 

But it turned out to be easier said than done. Group 2 started from the hotel at around 6.15 AM. By that time Group 1 was still waiting for their car. It took us around 30-35 minutes to Laitlum Canyon. We went straight from our hotel following the main road, across the circle crossing the entire market which was looking sleepy. People in Shillong are pretty early risers, we would see joggers and morning walkers as early as 5 AM on the streets, even when the light would not come up. Especially you would see lot of youngsters running on the street in the morning. With almost zero traffic at that hour and good roads with various gradients, its a very good natural cardio that one gets. 

There is something about Meghalaya that makes you wake up early. Maybe because its in further east which brings the dawn pretty early. Or maybe it was the sheer excitement of being able to travel after such a long and trying year made us wake up sharp at 5 AM everyday during those 9 days. I for one, who doesn't wake up before 7 on usual days would beat the alarm every single day! And it gave us so much more time to enjoy the day.

View from the parking space

Walk down the paved path towards the canyon

Landscape keeps changing throughout on the way to Laitlum. From city limits to meadows, low-lying pastures and quaint towns would keep you company. Almost 10 km from our hotel we came across a small village which I believe is known as Smit village. Time stands still here and technology doesn't seem to have permeated yet into the lives of these simple villagers. Traditional Khasi houses, wicker fences, fields of crops, little children playing on the road (because hardly there were any vehicles on the road apart form our car at that time), ladies and men pushing a unique looking trolley to carry water and other amenities. We even saw a small boy pushing a trolley with water. Since it was a Sunday and a Mass day so we also saw many Khasi villagers dressed up in their traditional attire walking towards the village church with their kids tagging along.

If you love the virgin air of early morning and like to get lost among the vastness of nature then definitely visit Laitlum canyon. This beautiful untouched secret of a place lies about 30 km from Shillong. Laitlum Canyons literally translates to “end of hills” and it does justice to its name. A paved concrete way leads you on towards the canyon.

Once you reach there you will see there is a designated parking space for the cars and bikes. We got out of the car as our driver found a parking spot. The first feel was - this is what infinity would look like! We couldn't see the vantage view of canyons from the parking, but we could already feel the boundlessness. The view form this side looks very pretty with undulating layers of hills covered in greens waking up to the sun. As we started walking towards the main area we saw the hill top is a vast area surrounded by fields and meadows, with just a couple of houses/tea-snacks shop on top of the hill.

While driving to Laitlum, our driver had shared a lot of stories about his film shooting crew experience at this place. He told us about the time Rock On 2 crew was here and shooting on the canyons. he also told that recently Ayushman Khurana was here for a month shooting for his upcoming film. He used to take him in his car to Laitlum and other places. After hearing this story I again checked out which part of Rock On was shot here as I had not watched the part 2. It seemed they had created a stage on the edge of the canyon for a song shoot. Frankly speaking once I knew it was shot here it felt oxymoronic. I could not believe such a concert stage tearing through the tranquility of this place which was the main asset. 

We kept walking towards the canyon, it was like a 2-3 minute walk. As expected by the time we reached there was not even a spot of cloud anywhere. The sun was high in the sky and the grassland looked more yellowish at this time of the year. I could only imagine how pretty it might look during the rains with lush green rolling grasslands.

Laitlum Canyon is also known as the amphitheater of Meghalaya and rightly so. You feel like crying out - "I am on the top of the world!" once you reach the ledge of the canyon. The breathtaking gorges and steep winding stairways that snake their way down to the lush valley makes you feel like a speckle in the landscape. You feel miniscule taking in the all encompassing nature around.   There is a small viewpoint created at short gaps where you can stand and have a look down the deep valleys and gorges. You can see a serpentine silver river snaking through the forest land below. Though the sun was up it was very windy and cold. We saw a few families had got some food and tea and were enjoying their food on the grassland. There were cleaning ladies deployed as far as our eyes could reach to pick up stray litters. It is really impressive to see how cautiously the people in Meghalaya maintain the cleanliness of the places everywhere and not just at the 'Asia's cleanest village - Mawlynnong'. 

We learnt that a long, narrow  and steep flight of stone stairs snake through the edge of the Laitlum canyon to the tiny hamlet of Rasong. It is the only route form this village to the nearest market, has almost 3000 stairs and takes almost 5 hours for the hike. There is a rope rope-way from the top to the village, which supplies the urgent needs to the village. It is only meant for goods transportation and not human.

While my mother and granny waited at one of the viewpoints, me and my uncle made way along the fenced ledge deeper into the canyon grassland. I must say even though it looks pretty flat at a glance but it is not so. There are places where you need to cross some kind of a thin stream and it can become tricky. Also the land is very uneven at places and if you are not used to hiking, you might even feel shortness of breath after a while. This especially happens when the weather is cold and you struggle to breath in the cold air during a brisk walk. We kept going for some time and saw a patch of potato plants. I never knew how a potato plant looks but my uncle being a specialist in this area pointed out to me to take a note of those pretty plants. We had been seeing them even on our way towards Laitlum at many places. Small plants with pretty white flowers planted in rows very abruptly in a patch on the grassland. have a look at these pretty things below in the photo series. 

Potato Flower

Potato Plants

Potato Farming Patch

Village of Rasong at max zoon form my camera

A playground (?) beside the village

We spent some more time navigating through the terrain until we decided to walk back. We had a packed itinerary today and wanted to be back to our hotel by breakfast time. After getting some more pretty photos of the place we left for our hotel. On our way back we saw a group of bikers coming towards the canyon. The group even had lady bikers. Some more construction was happening at one side of the canyon and it seemed they were coming up with some staying options and washroom facility. 

Tips: 

• Visit the canyon as early as possible in the morning e.g. 5 AM to view the sleeping clouds or before 5 PM when the clouds again start settling down in the valley
• This place is best visited during the monsoon when it is stunning in green
• If you are carrying snacks or food, do not litter the grounds. There are trash bins placed at places, put your trash in designated bins only

We reached our hotel and decided to meet directly at the breakfast table. We had got information that the other group had already begun their trek to Mawryngkhang and almost half way done. So we anticipated they would be able to meet us pretty soon at some of the next viewpoint we were planning to go to.

The breakfast was served at the rooftop restaurant in Poinisukh. It was a buffet breakfast comprising of the very standard menu like - breads, sandwiches, fruits, cakes, tea/coffee, eggs, puri - subzi and some south Indian options like vada, idlis and chutneys. Unfortunately by the time we reached the place the previous group had already wiped the vadas clean and the hotel informed that they would not be repeating the vadas. I felt the south Indian menu was the best in the whole spread. We finished a nice breakfast and then headed for our next destination. The plan for the day was to do as many local sightseeing as possible. The original plan was like the below: 

• Elephant falls
• Umiam Lake
• Shillong View Point
• Don bosco museum
• Bara Bazar & Police Bazar
• Churches of Shillong

However we had already done Umiam lake the day before. So that was out. And as expected, our driver intervened in deciding the locations. He said Shillong view point was closed due to covid restrictions ( we didn't argue with him because there was no point). After this I simply submitted to his judgement and let him plan the day for us. The first place he took us was the Mary Help of Christians Cathedral. 

Mary Help of Christians Cathedral (both levels)

Mary Help of Christians Cathedral

• Entry Fee : Free
• Parking Available : Yes (There is a designated parking space inside the church premise at the first floor). However since we were only spending a short time here, we parked our car on the road itself (pretty empty at that time of the day)
• Covid Document Check : No
• Mask Mandatory: No

The first few things you notice about the church is the pretty powder blue color, Gothic style of architecture and how huge the place is. This church is located in the Laitumkhrah itself and was like a 5 minute drive from our hotel. This is a Roman Catholic Church and also known as the Cathedral Catholic Church. Dedicated to mother Mary, the Cathedral Church of Mary Help of Christians was built by the Germans in 1913. According to history, the construction of the present shrine was built after the first church got destroyed due to a fire accident in 1936. It got the status of a shrine in 1980, on completion of the Catholic Church's 100 years in North East India. This church falls under Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Shillong and is the principal place of worship of about 3,00,000 strong Catholics of Ri Bhoi and East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya.

The church is built on a sort of high plateau and one has to take a steep short flight of steps or a gradient to reach it. The beautiful church has two levels. Each level had a church. While the lower level is a small chapel that has a prayer hall and is filled with candles and prayer books, the upper level is a huge cathedral with big seating capacity. The upper level church seemed to be for the elite and higher class while the smaller chapel was housing the tribes of this area and less well off class. The church has high arches and stained glass windows which add to its grandeur. 

Second Level - Main Church

Garden in the second level

Since it was a Sunday and a mass day, we saw people dressed in their Sunday best waiting in a queue to get into the church. We also saw a board by the entrance to the church which said tourists not allowed inside. Maybe because of it being a mass day, the restrictions on tourist was in force or maybe because of the pandemic the entrance was restricted to outsiders - I am not sure of the reason here. So we didn't try to go in but just walked around. There is a small garden outside where you can sit and enjoy the atmosphere. We could hear the choir inside playing. People were dressed so well it appeared they were here for some high class party. We even saw ladies in LBDs and gents sporting their best suits. The upper level has a huge parking area. There are a few buildings surrounding the parking area, one of which was a bookshop/ souvenir shop. We spent some time in the open area and then headed back. There were beautiful poinsettia blossoming in the garden which added a sharp red contrast to the otherwise muted landscape.

Before getting into the car we heard that the other group has completed their trek and will be heading back soon. We gave them our next coordinate which was going to be Elephant Falls and asked them to directly meet us there.

Poinsettia blossoming in the garden of the Church

Elephant Falls

Elephant Falls

• Entry Fee : Rs 100/per person
• Parking Available : Yes 
• Covid Document Check : No
• Mask Mandatory: No
• Covid Document Check : No

It took us about 30 minutes to reach Elephant falls from the church and falls on the road connecting Shillong to Sohra (Cherrapunji). When you reach the place you can see a number of souvenir shops, small restaurants and a gate with a flight of stairs going down towards the falls. There is ample parking space beside these shops. There is also a pretty tree canopied park behind the parking area which also has a kids play area. 

We started our descent towards the falls following the steps leading down after buying the entry ticket. It cost us Rs 100 per person and seemed kind of steep. But once you see the waterfall you will find it worth the amount. There was a shop at the starting of the stairs which was providing Khasi costumes for tourists who wanted to get themselves clicked in the traditional dress. We saw the kids were looking most excited in the costume because they were also given a fake sword which they were playing with. We passed the shop and headed downwards. The other group from Mawryngkhang Trek was yet to arrive. A man at the entrance to the first level of the falls took our entry ticket and let us enter the place. 

Shillong is especially known for some breathtakingly beautiful waterfalls it has. Out of which, Elephant Falls is the most popular. The fall is not named after the shape of an elephant as one might think, but it is named after an elephant shaped rock discovered here at the base of the waterfall at the last level, which was later destroyed by the 1897 earthquake. The original Khasi name of the waterfall is Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew, which translates to "the three - step waterfall".

Stairs going down towards 2nd level

Traditional Baskets made into litter bins 

The bridge at the second level

Light & Shade on water

Level 2 waterfall

As the name suggests this waterfall has 3 different levels and each level has a different beauty. The third and last level is the most pretty one. We visited on the last day of October and still the falls had good amount of water. I could only imagine how much more prettier it would look during the monsoon. While the first level of the falls can be easily reached by going down about 20-25 steps, the second and the third levels are much more difficult to navigate as the steps are tall and steep. Its almost 100 more steps down to the final level after the first level. Litter bins are available all over the trail so make sure you are not unnecessarily littering the place.

My mother and grandma decided to stop by the first level itself because the later part looked too daunting for them. And it is advisable that people with mobility issues should not go down all three levels because while coming back it would be very taxing. Thus only me and my uncle went down the next two levels. Going down is not that much of an effort. There are bends which is narrow and you need to make way for the people coming up but its a relatively easy climb down. 

3rd level

When you reach the base of the falls it ends in a small pool of water. There is a boating facility available and if you wish you can take a ride for an additional cost. Please note you cannot enjoy a dip in this pool, only boating is allowed. But you can definitely take some Instagram worthy pictures at this spot with the beautiful waterfall in your background. 

You can also see the The Mattilang Amusement Park from the boundary fence of this area. One might be tempted to just cross the fence and walk down to the amusement park but it is not allowed. An incident happened right before our eyes. There were a couple of over enthusiastic gentlemen who can down from the Amusement park side and tried climbing the fence of the Elephant Falls area. But immediately the guard on duty came down and scolded them. It happens that both the properties are maintained by different governing bodies and has separate entry fees so trespassing to either section is forbidden. Elephant falls is government managed while the amusement park is private owned.

Boating at the 3rd level

The climb back was really tedious. While coming down I was in a jacket but while going up I had to take off the jacket because I was sweating after going up some steps. I would recommend take frequent pauses on the way and don't try to climb at one go that will help in preserving your energy. The stairs are rather steep so just take your time to go up. We were completely dehydrated by the time we came to the first level. And I think I guzzled down two small bottles of water myself. By that time the second group - my cousin and aunt had joined us. They spoke very excitedly about their trek. After taking a breather both of them headed down while we rested in the benches around the first level. Once I was hydrated I noticed that probably the first level was the best part to sit and enjoy nature - pleasing waterfall, nice cool breeze and dense forest surrounding us. We also saw the mother-daughter duo at the falls whom we had met near the Umiam Lake on Day 1. 

The best thing about Meghalaya is that there are pay-n-use washroom facility at regular distances along the road as well as in the sightseeing spots. This place also had a pay-n-use washroom facility opposite to the parking area, which was nice and clean. You can also see some hand washing basins outside the washroom. They charged us Rs 10 per person (standard rate across the state at all pay-n-use washrooms).

As mentioned about there were a couple of restaurants around the parking spot which was serving snacks and some hot meals. Since we already had a heavy breakfast we didn't feel much hungry by that time even if it was almost lunch hour. But we saw a good number of people inside enjoying maggi and other Khasi foods. 

Tips:

• The steps of the stairs are tall so for anyone having joint pain issues, or old people who are not used to trekking should avoid going down all three levels. They can view the falls form the first level and rest in the benches placed there.
• Since it is quite a steep climb, wear good walking shoes
• Carry a walking stick, it just works wonders when you climb up. You can at times get these walking sticks on rent from the shops around
• Carry water bottle with you, its a tiring uphill climb and you will need the hydration
• There is a provision of aquaguard water inside the entrance of the first level of the waterfall. Fill up your empty bottles at this spot with the naturally chilled mountain water.
• If you want to purchase some souvenirs then there are souvenir shops near the parking lot.
• This place has a good pay-and-use washroom facility which charges Rs. 10/pp
• Tourists can get pictures in traditional Khasi costumes here.
• If you are visiting in rains , bring your own raincoat/ umbrella or you can rent umbrellas at the shops at the entrance.

Our adventures for Day 2 will be continued in my next Meghalaya blog. Till then stay tuned and if you haven't already checked out the other three blogs in this series do check the links at the end of this blog.

Important Takeaways from this part:

1. If you plan to visit Laitlum Canyon, then make sure you reach there by 5 AM max or come in the evening time just before sunset. 

2. Laitlum feels the best in monsoon.

3. You can also hire local taxis for half or full day sightseeing in and around Shillong.

4.  If you are planning to trek down to the Rasong village, do carry water and snacks as there are no shops around the area.

5. Elephant Falls is a must visit place. Till Level 1 everyone can walk down. Level 2 & 3 are pretty steep and not recommended for people having any kind of mobility issues. Ample seating is available at Level 1, if you want to sit and enjoy.

6. Carry a small bottle of water with you when you walk up and down the levels, you will feel dehydrated with the tedious climb. 

7. Refill your bottles with the aquaguard placed at the entrance of the 1st level. The aquaguard is fed by the mountain water, is super chilly and tastes wonderful. 

8. Wear good shoes, especially if you are going there during the rains. The steps might become slippery.

9. Paddle boating facility available at the 3rd and lowest level of the falls. You are however not allowed to go into the water for a swim.

10. Trash bins are available everywhere in Meghalaya viewpoints, so try not to litter any spot you visit.

11. Pay and use washroom facility is available at Elephant Falls. We did not see a functional washroom at Laitlum.

12. Ample parking space available both at Laitlum and Elephant Falls. 

13. Food/snacks facility is available at both the spots.

14. Mask is mandatorily used within Shillong city limits but in both the viewpoints we didn't see people wearing masks and it was safe. 

To be continued in Next Part 

Other posts in this series:

• Meghalaya Trip Summary
• Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 1) - Umroi Airport, Umiam Lake
• Meghalaya Travelogue - Day 1 (Part 2) - Umiam Lake, Shillong, Laitumkhrah, Police Bazar