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Curries & Stories

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Day 60 of Lockdown

First of all Eid Mubarak to any of my readers who is celebrating it today. The year has been pretty weird for all of us, and we are spending most of the celebrations locked up in our homes. But this is also an experience. What cant we achieve even when our resources are limited? Its just a mindset change that's it. 

This being a long weekend, I thought why not try something more elaborate this time. I had some chicken languishing in the freezer for quite sometime now. Thought to put that to good use. I am not a big biryani lover or rather I am a biryani lover but I am very specific about what biryani I like. Most of the times biryanis have mint in it, and frankly for me that is a put off. Now being a Bengali you might assume I like the kewra flavored biryani. But o I don't like that as well. Any strong smelling agent really puts my taste buds off. Rice cooked with the natural fragrant of slow cooked meat with a few essential spices is all that I want in any kind of meat-rice. So I am more of a Pulao person than a biryani person I realized long back.

While checking out some nice pulao recipe on the net I had stumbled upon the name of Dhakai Morog Pulao. It was intriguing because Dhaka is the capital city of Bangladesh, and Bangladeshi cuisine, especially puran dhaka is really famous for its variety and taste. Traditionally this is cooked with desi morog (rooster) but if you don't get a rooster you can always replace it with chicken. That is what I have done here.

After browsing though almost 8-10 morog pulao recipes I made an extract of all the steps I felt would suit my palate. So this is how I made this recipe. The key to a good biryani or pulao is the ratio of meat to rice. Once that is handled you are good to go. I have basically  used 2:1 ratio of chicken to rice. Which means rice is half of amount of chicken. The recipe wont taste like a biryani, because its much mildly spiced than a typical biryani. Green chillies add the necessary heat to cut through the fried sweet onions. 

It is pretty elaborate and takes as much time as to make a biryani. But its worth all the effort.


Marination Time : Overnight
Preparation Time : 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 1.5 hours
Serving : 2 person

Ingredients (for Chicken):
  • Chicken - 500 gm
  • Hung Curd - 1 cup
  • Red chilli powder - 2 tsp + 2 tsp
  • Bay leaf - 2
  • Cardamom - 3
  • Black Cardamom - 1
  • Cinnamon - 2 one inch 
  • Clove - 2
  • Onion - 2 cup
  • Green Chilli - 2-3
  • Tamarind Paste - 1 tbsp
  • Ginger - 1 tbsp
  • Garlic - 1 tbsp
  • Green Chilli Paste - 1 tbsp
  • Sugar - 2 tbsp
  • Almond paste - 2 tbsp
  • Poppy seed paste - 2 tbsp
  • Milk - 1 cup
  • Salt to taste
  • Ghee- 1/4th cup
Ingredients (for Rice):
  • Basmati/ Fragrant rice - 250 gm
  • Ghee - 1/4 th cup
  • Water - 375 ml (3/4 th of 500 ml)
  • Milk - 125 ml (1/4th of 500 ml)
  • Bay leaf - 1
  • Green cardamom - 2
  • Cinnamon - 1 inch
  • Sugar - 1 tsp
  • Salt - As per taste
Ingredients (for finishing):
  • Raisin - 9-10
  • Green Chillies - 3
  • Rose water - 1 tbsp
  • Boiled Egg - 1
  • Potato - 1 large, halved and fried
Procedure (Preparing the chicken): 

1.  Wash and clean the chicken. Preferably take big leg piece. Make a few slits in the bigger pieces.

2. Take hung curd in a bowl and add 1 tbsp red chilli powder. Mix into a uniform thick paste

Tip: If you are using any market bought curd, then make sure you drain all the water from. Either keep it in a muslin cloth and let water drain. Or simply put it in a strainer and let it sit for a while. 


3. Coat the chicken with the paste and let it marinate overnight or at least for 2-3 hours. I marinated overnight. 

Tip: Please note I am not adding any salt to the marinate. Because salt would drain water out of the chicken and make the marinate watery.


4. Take a deep bottom wok and heat the ghee in the wok. When fragrant add the whole masalas - green and black cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaf and cloves.

Tip: To get the authentic flavor of Morog Pulao, make sure you do the cooking entirely in ghee. But if you don't want to add all ghee, then substitute half with any refined oil.


5. Chop the onions into slices and when the spices are fragrant, add the onions into the ghee. Need to fry this onions till it attains the beautiful reddish brown color of barista. 

Tip: Keep the flame of the gas on high and you need to continuously stir to make sure the onion doesn't burn

6. When the onion gets the reddish color, add the ginger and garlic paste and fold in. Add about quarter cup of water and stir in, to prevent it from sticking to the wok. 

7. Add the chilli paste. Cover and cook till the onions are soft and oil comes out. Keep checking on the onions regularly to prevent from burning.


8. When the water dries out and onion is soft, add the marinated chicken along with the marinade. Fold in. 


9. Add the tamarind pulp at this stage and fold in

Tip: If you don't have tamarind pulp you can substitute it with tamarind sauce but it might tamper with the flavor. So i would recommend in that case omit the step completely.


10. Cover and cook the chicken till it starts getting white or changes color. Keep turning the chicken frequently so that it doesn't stick to the wok.

11. Make a paste of poppy seeds and almonds.

Tip: This can be done two ways. Either dry roast the poppy seeds and the almonds and then grind to a paste. Or simply grind the raw poppy seed and almond into a paste. The first option would give a slightly nutty aroma to the chicken. I followed the first. 

Tip: If you don't have poppy seeds or almond, you can omit this step. Or if you have any one of them that is also fine. Almond can also be replaced with cashew.

12. Add the poppy seed and almond paste and fold in. You need to stir continuously to make sure it doesn't stick.


13. Boil the milk and keep ready. At this stage after mixing the nut paste add the milk and stir in. Cook the chicken with cover on till the chicken becomes soft.

Tip: The milk should be boiled and hot when it is added to the wok, otherwise it may curdle.


14. Chicken will start releasing water. Now cook till the water starts to dry off and the gravy thickens. At this stage add the sugar and fold in. Now keep the gas on sim and let it cook till the water evaporates and gravy becomes pretty thick. Make sure you stir the chicken frequently. 

15. Now follow the rice cooking procedure

16. Chicken should be nicely cooked by now. Switch off the flame and take out the chicken in a separate dish. 


17. Now continue with assembling of the rice procedure

Procedure (Preparing the rice): 

1. Take basmati or any flavored rice and wash it properly. Drain the water and keep it to dry. All water should be properly drained before we start cooking the rice. 

Tip: The amount of rice should be half of the weight of chicken. Since I had taken 500 gm chicken so I have taken 250 gm rice

2. When the chicken is almost done, we will start cooking the rice. Take another deep bottomed kadai and add heat it.

3. Add ghee and when it is hot add the bay leaf, cardamom, cinnamon. 

Tip: Again the pulao should be completely made in ghee to get the authentic flavor.

4. Now add the washed rice into the wok and keep stirring softly. Fry the rice till you feel it becomes heavy.


5. Now the water to cook the rice needs to be added. Water should be double the amount of rice. Which means 500 ml of water. Now instead of 500 ml of water, i have taken 3/4th water and 1/4th milk.  Make sure both milk and water are boiling hot when adding, this will quicken the cooking process. Add 1 tsp of salt and sugar to it and fold in everything nicely.


6. At this point the gas is on full and cooking without a lid while stirring regularly. Continue to cook till the water starts reducing and you can see the rice. Now lower the gas on medium and cover and cook till the water is absorbed and rice is 3/4th cooked. You can occasionally give it a gentle stir just to make sure all the rice is cooked. 

Tip: Take care not to stir vigorously because it will break the rice. Be very gentle while stirring.


7. While the rice is cooking go to step 16 of chicken.

Procedure (Assembly of the Pulao)

1. The rice should be 3/4th cooked and all the water should be absorbed by now. Take off the lid and switch off the gas. Now the chicken and the rice assembly will begin which will take some time so it is better to switch of the gas at this point.

2. Take off half of the cooked rice into a separate dish. 

3. Take the gravy from the chicken and spoon it over the rice. You can also mix it a bit. 

4. Now place the chicken pieces on the rice in a single layer. Take care while handling the chicken as it might break. Add the fried potato and boiled whole egg at this point. 


5. Now add the other half of the rice on top of the chicken and egg layer uniformly so as to cover the chicken completely.

6. Add a few raisins, slitted green chilli on top.

7. Sprinkle 1 tsp of rose water over the rice

Tip: For those who love the flavor of Kewra can add 1/4th tsp of kewra essence at this point. Personally I don't like it. 



8. Now cover the lid and if it has any steam outlet then block it with a clove. Put the gas on low and let it sit on dum for about 10 minutes.

Tip: If the wok doesn't have a heavy bottom then, the rice may stick, so just add a tawa below the wok so as to distribute the heat properly to the wok.

9. After 10 minutes, let the rice sit for about 5 minutes more before serving.

Gently mix the pulao before serving. have it just like that or with raita or any other non veg gravy side.

Do try this out and tag me (@curriesnstories07) on Instagram on your photos whenever you try the recipe and I will give a shout out to you.


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Biryani forms an integral part of of the menu for any special occasion in this subcontinent. Among Bengalis Pulao also is almost of the same stature but Biryani still takes the cake always. The basic difference between the two is the cooking technique applicable to each. Pulao or Pilaf(also known as pilau and plov) is delicately flavoured rice, sautéed in ghee and flavoured with whole spices like cumin, cloves etc and sometimes poultry, meat and shellfish are added as per choice. 

Biryani derived from the Persian word Beryan meaning fried or roasted is made from fragrant par boiled rice, which is then assembled with with variety of meat, seafood or assorted vegetables sealed and put on "dum" (cooking on very low flame, allowing the meats to cook, as much as possible, in their own juices and bone-marrow and the flavours of the spices are infused well) for an hour or so till the meat and rice is cooked to perfection. Biryani can again be categorised as Pakki and Kacchi Biryani. In Pakki Biryani you cook the marinated chicken, layer it with fragrant rice and cook it in dum. Kacchi biryani or ‘Kacchi Yeqni’ is a more enticing form of Biryani in which one puts the marinated chicken at the bottom of the pot,  cover it well with par boiled fragrant rice, layer the masalas on top of it and cook it in dum. Personally I always felt that Kacchi Biryani is more flavourful and succulent than Pakki.

As far as I am concerned, I am NOT a Biryani freak. The only Biryanis I ever liked were the one prepared by my Dida (Grandma) and the one that I tasted in a small hotel whose name I cannot recollect at Shyambazar panch mathar mor. After coming out of Kolkata I never ever tasted a biryani that would make my taste buds happy. I absolutely HATE any trace of mint or coriander in my Biryani hence the typical Hyderabad Biryani where mint is an invincible part, is not for me. I had some chicken Biryani from one of the most famous shops in HYD, but  it was too dry and minty for my taste. Also I have seen that Biryanis in other parts of the country , never contained the nice and soft halved Potato  and the boiled egg that we Bengalis are so used to.

I tried Biryani at many places, but got more and more disappointed so much so that I began to detest it. Since I am so choosy in the taste  I always shied off from preparing it at home thinking I will never be able to make what Dida  used to make. My Ma is also not a connoisseur of Biryani hence I could never learn how to cook it. This weekend while watching a chef prepare Biryani on a food Channel  I thought lets give this a try.

The Biryani they showed on TV had mint (!!!) and no way that was going to be a part of Biryani cooked in my Kitchen.So I customised the Biryani as per my taste. Finally after much anticipations and apprehensions that the chicken would remain uncooked when we tasted the Biryani at 11 pm, it tasted like heaven. It was beyond my imagination that the first try would yield such a superlative result, hence couldn't wait to share it with my readers.

We prepared the Kacchi Biryani. The list of ingredients may look as never ending but do not get intimidated by it, believe me each plays a big role into making the perfect-est Biryani. Also precision and patience is the key to get it right. When I say 45 min of dum it means exactly 45 min- not more not less. I used 1:1 ratio of rice and chicken, you can alter the ratio depending on your choice.

Preparation Time: 20 minutes
Marination Time: 4 hours
Cooking Time: 45 minutes

Serves:2

Cuisine: Bengali

Ingredients:

Marination:
  • Chicken - 300gm
  • Yoghurt - 150 gm
  • Red chilli powder - 2 tsp
  • Coriander powder - 1 tsp
  • Cumin powder - 1tsp
  • Onion - 1 cup deep fried (1 medium onions longitudinally sliced)
  • Ginger Paste - 2tbsp
  • Garlic paste - 2tbsp
  • Nutmeg(Jaifol) - 1/2 tsp grinded coarsely
  • Salt as per taste
Spice Bag:
  • Peppercorns - 10 (enhances the taste)
  • Clove - 5
  • Green Cardamom - 5
  • Cinnamon stick - Two 2" stick
  • Nutmeg(Jaifol) - 1/2 
  • Caraway seeds (Sahjira) - 1/2 tsp
Biryani:
  • Basmati Rice - 300 gm (I used Kohinoor silver range)
  • Potato - 2 medium, halved
  • Onion - 2 cup deep fried (2 medium onions longitudinally sliced)
  • Ginger -  A 2" piece cut into juliennes 
  • Bay Leaf - 2 big
  • Milk  - 1/2 cup
  • Sugar - 2 tsp
  • Rose water - 4 tbsp
  • Fresh Rose Petals - 10 to15
  • Kewra essence - 1 tsp
  • Saffron - 2-3 strands (optional)
  • Cashew - 10
  • Raisin - 10 -15
  • Other dryfruits - according to preference
  • Ghee - 1/2 cup
  • Wheat flour dough to seal - as required
  • Refined oil - as required for deep frying
  • Salt - as per taste
  • Yellow Food colour - 1 tsp
Garnish:
  • Boiled Egg - 1 (Halved)
  • Cucumber - Cut in angular circles
Procedure :

Marination:
1. Wash and cut the chicken and lay them out in a mixing bowl.
2. Beat the yoghurt into a uniform paste and add it to the chicken
3. Take 1/2 a Nutmeg and pound it coarsely.
4. Add the rest of the ingredients mentioned under Marination and the pounded Nutmeg into the mixing bowl. Mix well.
5. Cover the bowl and keep it in the refrigerator for 4 hours or more.
Note: If you don't have that much time to spare even an hour of marination is fine. But I like the chicken to be marinated for longer hours as it soaks up the flavour better.

Barista (Deep fried onion):
1. Slice the onions longitudinally with a sharp knife. Separate all the layers with your finger so that they are not in cluster.
2. Julienne the fresh ginger piece in thin slices. The deep fried onion is usually known as Barista but I have added the ginger to it as well
3. Heat oil in a wok and add the onion slices. Fry it in medium heat and keep stirring it so that all the slices are evenly browned.
4. Once all the onions are even in colour add the ginger juliennes and fry for a while
5. Take out the fried onions and ginger from the oil and spread it on a Tissue paper. The extra oil will be soaked up by the paper and the onions will become crispy as they cool down

Kesar Milk:
1. Take the milk and add the Saffron strands to it. The milk will take on a yellow hue.

Kewra & Rose water( To be done before Assembling the Biryani):
1. Take the Kewra Essence and Rose water in a bowl and mix well.

Readying the Rice and Spices:
1. Wash and dry the Basmati rice. The better dried the rice is the lesser chances are that teh Biryani will turn out to be mushy. So take care to dry the rice.
2. Halve the medium sized potatoes so that you have 4 pieces of halved potatoes.
3. Shallow fry the potatoes for about 3-4 minutes and then keep them aside.
4. Pound the spices mentioned under "Spice Bag" coarsely. Take a muslin cloth of the size of a ladies hankie and place the pounded spices on the cloth and tie it in a pouch.

If you don't have a muslin cloth you can use a normal cotton ladies hankie just like me which shall yield the same result. 

7. Take a deep bottomed wok. The water measurement for cooking the Basmati rice will be given at the back of the packet. I used 600 ml of water. Put the water in the wok and turn on the heat. When the water becomes warm place two medium sized Bay leaves at the bottom.
8. Add the washed and dried Basmati rice to the warm water .
9. Add 2 tsp of salt and 1 tsp of sugar in the wok and mix well.

The taste of this water will be the taste of the rice. Hence add salt according to the taste you want. I also added sugar to balance the saltiness.

10. Immerse the Spice Bag into the water in the wok. Cover the lid and boil it on high flame for about 7-7 minutes.
11. Par cook the rice (3/4 cooked). Avoid overboiling.
12. Drain the water and remove the "Spice Bag"
13. Take out all the spices from the Spice Bag and keep it aside in a bowl.
14. Take 1 tsp of ghee in a skillet and when the ghee is hot add all the dry fruits along with cashew and raisins. Fry for a couple of minutes and keep it aside.


Assembling the Kacchi Biryani:
1. Take a deep bottomed wok with a lid, preferably those glass lids from which you can see what's going on inside the wok.
2. Spread 2 tsp of ghee on the bottom of the wok.
3. Place the chicken marinade as a uniform layer over it.
4. Sprinkle half of the fried dry fruits over it.
5. Arrange the Partially fried Potato halves on it.
6. Sprinkle the punded Spice from The Spice Bag that you had kept aside.
7. Layer the parboiled basmati rice on top of it.
8. Sprinkle rest of the dry fruits and Barista over it
9. Pour the Kesar milk and Kewra-Rose water evenly covering the entire area
10. Take 1 tsp of yellow food colouring and spread it with a spoon in one particular area of the rice (1/5 rice)
11.Pour the ghee on top of all the layers generously and evenly.
12. Repeat the layers if you are left with chicken marinade and rice. For me only two layers were sufficient as I was cooking only 600gm of Biryani.
13. Roll the dough into a long strip. Cover the lid and seal the rim of the lid with the dough strip half on the lid and half on the wok . If you are using a glass lid it will also have a opening on top. Cover it with dough as well. Do not be a miser with the dough sealing as if you use less dough it may come off once the dough starts to get hard from the steam.

An alternate to the dough strip sealing : Cover the wok with a silver foil and place the lid on top. Though the dough strip sealing is more full proof.

14. Cook on high flame for 5 minutes and then lower the flame to minimum.
15. Place a tawa under the wok and cook the biryani for 45 minutes.

It's bad news if during the 45 minutes of cooking at any point you happen to get the awesome aroma of the Biryani. It simply means that your sealing has given away and it's time for damage control. Quickly prepare some more dough, let it be slightly watery, and stick it over the portion you see steam coming out. Since the wok would already be too hot hence the dough will immediately stick and become hard.

Serving:
Cut open the dough along the rim and you will be greeted with an aroma to die for!
Carefully mix all the layers so as to not break the chicken pieces. It will be a nice combination of yellow and white rice.
Arrange the piping hot biryani on a plate and garnish it with 3-4 slices of cucumber and top it off with the halved boiled agg.
The Biryani is a bit moist due to the presence of a generous amount of ghee and can be eaten alone. But if you want you can serve it with raita.


Vegetarians can also relish this Biryani. Substitute the meat or chicken with vegetables like cauliflowers, carrots, peas,potatoes or paneer. Just adjust the "Dum" time accordingly keeping the rest of the procedure same.

This Biryani is unique because it has the goodness of two cuisines : the perfect Bengali blend of sweet and spicy flavours and traditional Hyderabadi cooking technique. Try if and I bet you wont be disappointed.

This post is an entry for the "Awesome Cuisine's 2012 Favorite Recipe Contest" event.

End of the Year Favorite Recipe Contest




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About me

I am a software engineer by profession and a writer at heart. Born and brought up in Kharagpur, I moved to the city of dreams Mumbai when I got my first job. Till then I had not cooked a single dish in my life. Not even Maggi or tea. My dad had a strong belief that his little princess never will be in a situation where she had to cook for herself. Hence I was not allowed to spend time in the kitchen till I was studying.


So when I faced the daunting task of living alone, dabbas came to initial rescue. After that I managed a whole year on just boiled vegetables and rice. And then I landed in US. The bounty of fresh produce and cooking ingredients available in the super marts eventually lured me into making my very first meal ever. There was no turning back after that. I finally discovered how much I was in love with cooking and being creative in the kitchen.


This blog is a humble attempt to present our culinary heritage to one and all and document some of the very traditional recipes which gets passed on through generations just by word of mouth.


So just sit back with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the curries and the stories related to each.


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