Curries & Stories: 2023

They say Kashmir is heaven on earth, which it is. But they never mentioned that once you visit Kashmir you get into a never ending loop of romance with this valley. It is very hard not to fall in love with this beautiful place. After visiting Kashmir once, I have heard everyone saying I will come back once again some day - that's how strong the allure of this place is.

And its not restricted to just the beauty of the land, but its just embedded everywhere - in its people, in its culture and most definitely in the unique cuisine or food.

As I write this, Dr Rukhsar Saeed, a food technologist from Pampore has cooked up a storm in the latest MasterChef India edition and today would be the grand finale of season. She was one of my favorite contestants and I really wished she or Nambi had won the coveted title. But even though she didn't win, but she has already broken a lot of stereotypes about the region and put the Kashmiri cuisine on the center stage. People are getting to know Kashmiri food goes much beyond the Rogan Josh and Kashmiri Pulao. And it really is.

To experience Kashmiri food you have to come to Kashmir. Because what is served in the multi cuisine restaurants lack the warmth and love and cannot replicate the indigenous produce of the land.

What is so different in the produce in Kashmir you might ask. In fact the vegetables are slightly limited in variety which you may find in the plainlands. But still one thing I have realized, the produce may be limited but the flavor and taste is unmatched because most of the things are actually organic. In fact Kashmir is still one of those places where they do not need to separately tag certain produces as 'organic', everything is organic by default, especially once you leave the cities.

This blog series will be about some of my most memorable food/eateries experiences in Kashmir, which made the food lover in me really happy and left a long trail of memories to be savored life long. Some of these foods I am mentioning are not that fancy but have a are highly recommended just for the unique experience factor. I have grouped them based on the 3 trips. Hope you enjoy reading it as much I enjoyed reminiscing about them:

Trip 1 - May end 2022 ( Srinagar - Gurez - Reshwari [Bangus Valley] - Chandigam [Lolab valley])

Kashmiri Kahwa ( Dal lake, during Shikara Ride)

I think most of us Indians are familiar with the famous tea of Kashmir known as Kahwa. Kahwa is also known as qehwa, kehwa, or kahwah, and is known as the Green Tea of Kashmir. The word Kahwa derives from the Arabic word “qahwah,” which means aromatic beverage, and we can easily see why. is composed of delectably fragrant spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, and saffron, as well as dried rose petals, are boiled in water and then steeped with Kashmiri green tea and kept in Samovars before serving. My first rendezvous with the famous tea was on Day 2 of our first Kashmir visit. We were on our way to Gurez from Srinagar, and stopped by the Dal Lake to check out if we could do a quick Shikara ride before heading off to Gurez. The previous evening also we had come to the Ghat for a sunset Shikara ride but the prices quoted was too unreal so we had given up on the idea. The morning time looked much calmer, since it was just 8.45 AM and most of the tourists were still in their hotels. We did find a shikara at the standard rates and agreed to go for a 30 min ride around the lake as we didn't want to get late. But once you are in the lake 30 min just passes in a flash of an eye, and our 30 min soon became an hour. We were not charged additional for this. Since it was our first shikara ride we were very much left in awe by the life on the lake. Especially when our boatman took us through the water alleyways where there were residential boats of locals it was fascinating. During one of those alleyway ride, we came across an old man sitting on the edge of a wooden pier and preparing tea in his samovar. He saw us and signaled to come closer to him. It was a cold morning, so when we saw the steaming hot tea it was a very obvious choice. Me and mom both opted for kahwa. The aroma of the warm, spiced tea filled the air, tantalizing the senses. The Kahwa, a traditional Kashmiri green tea infused with exotic spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and saffron, is a fragrant elixir that promises both warmth and flavor.

Nuts in tea is not something we were familiar with so we took the first sip hesitantly. As we brought the cup with the pale amber colored tea to our lips, the first sip is a revelation – a perfect balance of the tea's earthy notes and the aromatic dance of spices. Even the nuts in the bottom of the cup tasted good. We became instant fans of Kahmiri Kahwa after that experience. We thanked the old man for inviting us otherwise it would have been a missed opportunity. I tried kahwa at a few other places in Kashmir, even big hotels, but the simplicity and authenticity in the kahwa that we tasted in Dal Lake couldn't match up to any other.

Surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of Dal Lake, the Shikara becomes a vessel of relaxation and indulgence. The rhythmic motion of the boat, the fragrant steam rising from the cup, and the panoramic views of the mist-kissed lake create a harmonious blend of nature and culture. It's a moment of sheer bliss, where time seems to stand still, allowing you to savor not only the flavors of Kashmiri Kahwa but also the unmatched tranquility of the morning on Dal Lake.

(Pic Courtesy : Google)

Fresh Cherry

If you visit Kashmir during the summer seasons then it is the best time to enjoy Kashmiri Cherries. All around Srinagar you would see roadside fruit stalls selling blood red cherries neatly packed in boxes. In Kashmir over a dozen cherry varieties are being grown which include Mishri, Dabal, Siya, Awal-number, Italy, Jadi and Makhmali. Mishri Cherries are the sweetest and most famous ones. Did you know even Dubai gets its share of Cherries imported from Kashmir.

The instant temptation you feel when you see these little juicy things is immense. During our first visit to Kashmir, after seeing so many shops selling cherries finally we gave in to our temptation and bought one box. I think it came for Rs 200 for 250 gm a year back. While the shopkeeper may show you the cherries placed on top as fresh sometimes there can be a few not so fresh ones hidden below them. So always make sure to check the bottom ones as well otherwise the whole pack may start getting bad in a matter of days. We bought them on our way to Gurez from Srinagar. And it was the best thing we did. The entire way we kept munching on fresh cherries, the best snacks for long road trip - it was serving the purpose of food and drink at the same time. And best part when we reached higher altitudes near Razdan Pass due to the outside temperature drop our cherries also became super chilled and felt like we were having some kind of juicy cold desserts! Later on we got some salt packed from our hotel and would dip the cherries in salt while eating. Salt pairs really well with fruits and makes them taste better. And you wont believe we still couldn't finish all the cherries in next two days so we carried them all the way from Gurez to Reshwari Guest house as well. By that time a few bottom ones had started rotting away, so the next morning at Reshwari when we saw lots of monkeys in the backyard, we fed them the not so good cherries. And the moneys loved them! They got more of their friends and tiny monkey babies as well. It was such an entertainment to see the moneys eating cherries with their hands and carefully spitting out the seeds!

Cherries being sold in roadside stalls

Fresh Cherries

Monkeys at the Reshwari Guest house eating Cherries

Suji Halwa Prasad (Peer Baba Mazhar - on Tuesday)

Venturing into the captivating landscape of the Bandipora district in Kashmir, a journey to Peer Baba Ka Mazhar near Razdan Top promises a unique blend of spirituality, diversity, and breathtaking scenery. Set atop a hill, the mazhar stands as a testament to the harmonious coexistence of various faiths in the region. When we travelled to Gurez from Srinagar, we had noticed the mazhar on the right hand side of the road and thought that while on our way back we would pay visit.

As you ascend the winding path towards the mazhar, the air becomes infused with a sense of reverence and tranquility. The hill offers panoramic views of the surrounding valleys, with snow-capped peaks standing sentinel in the distance. The journey is not only a physical ascent but also a spiritual one, as each step brings you closer to the convergence of religious traditions. You can see the Mazhar from a little distance away, perched on the hill top, guarding the area like a sentinel along with the army forces.

Peer Baba Ka Mazhar is a place of inclusive spirituality, where deities from all religions find a revered space. Managed by the army, the mazhar exemplifies the unity and diversity that defines the cultural tapestry of Kashmir. The architecture reflects a blend of local aesthetics, adorned with vibrant colors and intricate designs that stand out against the natural beauty of the landscape.

The moment you step into the mazhar entrance , you are greeted by a profound sense of serenity. Devotees from different walks of life come together to pay their respects and seek blessings but on the day we visited we were the only ones. There was a layer of cloud and fog covering the hill top and we made our way through it. A big bell is hung at the entrance which you can ring while entering. We saw a couple of army men standing inside. The army's involvement in the management adds a layer of security and order to the sacred space. They guided us where to keep the shoes and wash our hands before stepping into the sanctum sanctorum. The first room has deities and pictures of god and goddesses from all religions - Hindu, Muslim, Sikh, Christian, all existing under the same roof. The atmosphere is one of mutual respect, fostering an environment where people can connect with their spirituality irrespective of their faith. This was something very unique for me and it felt amazing to be in that moment.

The visit on a Tuesday holds a special significance as it coincides with the day dedicated to Hanuman Ji. As we came out we, the two army men beckoned us to come where they were standing behind a table having a large steel pot. They have a unique tradition of serving Suji Halwa, a sweet semolina delicacy, as Prasad to who ever visits them on Tuesdays. One of the army person ladled out a scoop of halwa to each of us and we touched it to our forehead as a mark of reverence before having it. The aroma of the halwa mingled with the mountain breeze, creating a sensory experience that lingers in my memory till date.

As you take in the panoramic views from the hilltop, partake in the rituals, and embrace the diverse spiritual energies, Peer Baba Ka Mazhar becomes not just a destination but a soul-stirring journey. It encapsulates the essence of Kashmir's cultural fabric, where faith transcends boundaries, and the beauty of unity blossoms against the backdrop of the majestic Razdan Top and you realize all the tremulous history that the media asks you to believe is not the whole truth of what Kashmir was and will be.

The green building in the right corner is the Mazhar

On the way to the Mazhar

Entrance of the Mazhar

Inside the first room

Inside the second room

The history of the place

One of the deities of sherawali

Chai with the Locals

In the picturesque villages of Kashmir, where the warmth of hospitality rivals the beauty of the landscapes, an enchanting experience unfolds when invited for tea by the friendly locals. The people, especially the women, exude a genuine friendliness that transcends language barriers, creating a bond that goes beyond the ordinary. Hospitality towards any guest is very inherent to their culture but since they saw only two of us me and my mom travelling together in all these remote areas they were even more friendly towards us, especially wherever we went the womenfolk of the village would greet us - "Kaise ho, aao ghar aake chai piyo" (how are you, come to our homes and have tea with us). And this invitation to tea was like a standard thing everywhere. Since tourists were also not this much in 2022, I think the locals also were interested to interact with us and know about us as much as we were interested to know about them. I feel that to know the heart of any place you really need to interact a lot with teh locals. Unless you do that you just look at the place from the point of view of a tourist but once you talk to teh locals, get to know about them, their culture, their stories it makes you a traveler who comes back with a cartload of unique experience.

In one of my earlier blogs on Kashmir I had given a detailed account of how we were invited for tea by a women in Gurez and the experience that followed. The same thing happened in Lolab Valley also. When we had gone to visit Kalaroos cave, we had to cross a quaint village on the way. Apart from me and my mom there were no tourist in sight. As usual we got warm smiles from all the village women we met on the way. As I climbed up to teh caves, mom rested at the foothills of the mountain as it was too steep for her. When I came back I saw a women shepherd was chatting merrily with mom and Khursheed bhai our driver. On our way back through the village a young women insisted we visit her home for tea so we happily obliged. As we stepped into their simple dwelling crossing the wicker door, it felt like entering a sanctuary of warmth and tradition. She had a small daughter who curiously looked at us from the back of her mother and then shyly disappeared inside the house. The lady arranged for some cushions on the seating area outside and asked us to settle down. She then made her way inside to make tea. By then her sister in law had also dropped in. Seated on floor cushions, we found ourselves surrounded by the genuine smiles and lively chatter of our hosts. Her daughter had also made her way back and sat with us. She was cute as a button. The atmosphere is serene, with the aroma of freshly brewed Kashmiri tea wafting through the air. They didn't look much well off, but the way they welcomed us with open arms was really heart warming. They went to get milk from the market just to make tea for us. We sat with them for a long time chatting away just like a family.

The act of sharing tea becomes a cultural exchange, a bridge between worlds, as the locals eagerly share tales of their lives, traditions, and the unique customs that define their community. They become storytellers, weaving narratives that speak of the region's rich history, the timeless beauty of Kashmir, and the resilience of its people. Their stories resonate with laughter, joy, and a deep sense of pride in their heritage. As you sip the tea and listen to the captivating tales, the humble setting transforms into a sanctuary of connection and understanding. The hospitality of the Kashmiri locals transcends the material simplicity of their surroundings, leaving a lasting impression on the heart. The experience of sharing tea with these warm-hearted individuals not only introduces you to the flavors of Kashmir but also immerses you in the soul-stirring narratives that make each visit an unforgettable journey into the heart of the valley.

Local Women curious to know where we are coming from

Kalaroos Cave

The shepherd woman chatting with my mother and Khursheed bhai

The surrounding area of our hosts home in Lolab

Our Host serving us tea, her sister in law behind

We enjoyed our time with this family

The cute princess

The princess up close

Kashmiri Rajma Chawal ( Kaka Palace, Gurez)

Rajma Chawal in general is one of the most loved food pairing in our country, especially for people from North India. But Kashmiri Rajma is regarded as the crème de la crème of all Rajmas. They are sweeter in taste as compared to common rajma and tastes delicious when simmered in tomato and onion based gravy. They also retain their deep red color after cooking. I have had the chance to taste Kashmiri Rajma a few times while travelling in Himachal and once in Kashmir. It was the first time we went to Gurez. On day two in Gurez we had gone to visit Sheikhpora, a small village located at one and a half hour from Gurez. On our return we wanted to quickly finish lunch before heading out to Habba Khatoon mountain as it was already past noon. We stopped at one of the most well known hotels in Gurez - Kaka Palace. They have a inhouse restaurant which is open for outside guests as well who are not staying at Kaka Palace. By the time we sat down for lunch it was already past lunch time and we were in a hurry. SO we ordered two items which were readily available - rajma chawal and chicken curry. The rajma curry was velvety smooth and flavorful. I think the usage of Fennel seed powder and Badiyan (Badi Elaichi) makes everything thing taste better in Kashmir. The rajma curry was giving a good competition to chicken curry and I would say it tasted better. Piping hot rice and this delicious rajma curry definitely ticked the right boxes for us. So when in Gurez you can give it a try.

Toasted Bread with Wild Amber honey (Pine Tree Resort, Gurez)

The climate of Gurez as well as the floral diversity of the different plants (like violet, dandelion, wild clover, wild strawberry, chicory, mints, thyme, maize, potato, buckwheat, wild mustard etc.) available in this region makes it an ideal place for rearing of honeybees. Gurez had been famous for its Honey and Jeera even up to late forties when it was a busy and important trade route to Gilgit (Pakistan). When we stayed at Pine Tree Resort in Gurez, their chef Shakeel was very forthcoming in recommending us different uncommon fares like the white wild honey. For breakfast he gave us an option of Jam butter and bread which usually tourists would go for but also added that if we want he can arrange for local honey to go with the bread. I never had tried honey with bread earlier so I thought why not? The next day he served us with a pile of toasted bread, butter and a bowl of pale amber colored, thick, sticky liquid slightly crystalized due to the cold. Shakeel bhai informed it was the famous honey of Gurez. In spite of getting crystalized, it was still easily spreadable on the bread. The honey had a pleasant aroma - much milder and sweeter flavor than the regular darker honey. As I took the first bite I was in for a surprise. It tasted yummy. No jam or jellies would be equivalent to the yumminess of this honey on bread. We ended up having more number of breads than usual just because we wanted to savor all the honey. The mistake we made is not to buy some of that honey while coming back from Gurez. But I doubt whether it was available in the open market of Gurez as when we went for the 3rd Kashmir visit and stayed in Gurez, we did ask around Dawar market for the honey but there was none to be found. Unfortunately by then Shakeel bhai had left Pine Tree Resort so there was no way to check with him. During the same trip, when we were in Pahalgam's Café Log Inn, I saw some amber color honey in fancy bottles and got them. Then later I saw amber color honey being sold in the roadside shops which serve apple juice. But still I think the version that we had tasted on that cold morning in Gurez would be the top in my list.

Honey from Gurez

Bread with Butter and Honey @ Pine Tree Resort Gurez

Methi Maaz - Mutton and fenugreek leaves curry (Pine Tree Resort, Gurez)

I was very interested in tasting the Kashmiri Wazwan during our first first to Kashmir. But since we were visiting mostly offbeat places so I was not sure if we would get an opportunity to try out Wazwan at Srinagar during our limited stay in the city. So when the chef at Pine Tree Resort Gurez offered to prepare a Wazwan for us, we did not say no. He charged us a bomb for it but still I thought lets pay for the experience. We were called for dinner and served the food in a traditional way on the floor. While it was not the full blown Wazwan, the chef had prepared some of the main dishes like - Rista, Gustaba, Seekh Kabab and Methi Maaz. Considering the location of Gurez being so remote and the limited meat available in the valley, we were thankful that he could prepare even this much. We asked the chef how to start eating if there was any particular order of having the preparations. he instructed us to start with Methi Maaz. That was the first ever time I had heard about Methi maaz so I was not even sure whether its a veg or a non-vegetarian dish. The first bite confirmed that it was definitely mutton. Later I got to know that traditionally methi maaz is made using different cuts of meat in which lamb Tripe (intestines) is one of the key ingredients which is carefully cleaned and washed and boiled and used in the dish. The description may put some of you off, it would have also been the case with me if I knew before having. But believe me when I had it I was blown away - it was so delicious. The entire dish has a distinct flavor of fenugreek leaves which mingled so perfectly with the meat and created a symphony of rich flavors. With rice, it seemed like a pair made in heaven. It was a very cold night in Gurez with temperatures touching minus, and the common area at the homestay where we were served dinner, didn't have central heating mechanism so the food served was getting cold quickly. So to be very frank by the time we came to rishta and gustaba, I didn't have any space in my tummy as I had gorged so much on the Methi maaz and hence I didn't enjoy the rest of the dishes so much, and we returned some of them as is as one portion was enough for both of us. But the bowl of Methi maaz both of us finished with much enthusiasm. Later on during the other visits I didn't see methi maaz mentioned in most of the Wazwans being served at restaurants. Maybe its something which is only appreciated by locals due to the ingredient list. But I think we were very lucky to taste this in Gurez thanks to the chef Shakeel Bhai there. When in Kashmir, try checking with the restaurants- or homestays, if any of them serve this dish, this is something one should at least taste once for the experience.

Methi Maaz

Gustaba

Rishta & kabab

Rajma

Wazwan with fresh salad

Tea by the Riverside (Reshwari Guest House, Bangus Valley)

What is better than having a cup of steaming tea? Having a steaming cup of tea by the gushing mountain river with the sun setting in the backdrop. The perfect opportunity came when we reached Reshwari guest House. We had started the day from Gurez and had to reach the Bangus Valley, google maps gave an estimate of 6-7 hours which we knew probably would increase as navigating ghat roads will take time. What we didn't know that Google map had shown us a wrong location pin and would eventually get us lost. We had started around 8.30 AM and when the maps showed us that we were 30 odd mins away from our destination around 1 PM we thought to take a break and have lunch in a roadside restaurant as we wanted to rest when we reached the guest house. The lunch was good - chicken curry, rice and the onion chutney which is very typical of Kashmir. When we told the restaurant owner we loved the chutney he packed extra for us in a packet and gave us with a wide grin. These kind of gestures from complete strangers is what makes your journey memorable when you travel in Kashmir. Once we were on our way towards our destination, my only niggling doubt was that the guest house was supposed to be by a riverside and some rocky riverbed but the terrain towards which we were going seemed to pass through narrow lanes of a tiny village where at times we had to stop to check if our car could really fit in the narrow width of the road. Eventually we reached the pined location and it was like in the middle of a village. There was no guest house in vicinity, and needless to say no river either. We were bamboozled and Khursheed bhai our driver started asking a few old men sitting at a distance. Soon a big group of old men gathered and no one had any clue, they were very curious seeing two ladies travelling alone ( a year back tourists in these offbeat places were very less). Some one suggested to go right and then someone said to go left. The biggest mistake was us not having the guest house contact number with us. Finally our tour operator gave us the number to the guest house and Khursheed bhai got the new directions which was more than an hour away from where we were lost.

Finally when we reached the Reshwari guest house it was past 3 PM. This time it was the right place, I validated with the images I had seen online of this place : river - check, guest house - check! Nestled within the breathtaking beauty of the Kashmir Bangus Valley, the Reshwari Guest House stood as a tranquil retreat, offering a sublime escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. After dropping our luggage in the room and resting for a bit we headed off straight to the river side. Some picnic tables in a dilapidated condition stood on our way to the river. But the river itself was stunning. We navigated through some of teh large rocks and reached near the river. As we sat by the side of the gushing mountain river that ran adjacent to the guest house, a sense of serene bliss enveloped us. The sensory symphony of the river, its waters cascading over smooth rocks, was like a soothing soundtrack. . The sun, in its gentle descent towards the horizon, had casts a warm, golden glow over the landscape, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink. Our caretaker Nisar bhai informed that he will serve us tea by the river . We found ourselves a comfortable spot in the covered picnic area and settled down as our tea was served in porcelain cups. The aroma of the freshly brewed tea mingled with the crisp mountain air, the warmth of the tea created a sharp contrast with the cool mountain air, a taste that resonated with the surrounding nature. Gazing across the river, its waters reflecting the changing colors of the sky, we get immersed in a moment of sheer tranquility. No evening tea tasted this amazing ever as it did on that day. Surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Himalayas, one can find solace in the simplicity of this evening tea ritual, a harmonious blend of natural beauty and the comforts of a welcoming retreat in the heart of Kashmir.

The Picnic Tables

The Guest House from the river bed

The area where we sat and had tea

The seating area and the river

Bonfire and Open air Barbeque

By 6 PM it was pitch dark in the Reshwari Guest house. Electricity is always a problem in the remote areas of Kashmir and Reshwari was no exception. We had told Nisar bhai to arrange a chicken barbeque for us in the evening, since we were the only boarders that night I thought it would almost feel like a personal barbeque for us and no one else to disturb. The barbeque cost was dirt cheap. Rs 80 per skewer which would have 3-4 pieces of chicken. The barbeque was supposed to start around 7 PM so me and mom went outside and settled down in the chair around the place where barbaque was supposed to be setup. We saw Nisar bhai heading off to the wooded area in the back of the guest house with a hajak light. It looked like a scene from a Ruskin bond ghost story. After a while we could only see a light swinging in the dark in the jungle. My over imaginative brain for a moment thought he had abandoned us in this guest house and gone back to his home. But when we saw the light again coming closer the second line of thought was that probably he is not a human, otherwise who would even think of venturing out in the dark jungle armed with just a hajak? before my brain could conjure any more fancy thoughts we could see the silhouette of Nisar bhai with a bundle of wood in his arms. Little did we know under the expansive canvas of the Reshwari sky, a magical evening would unfold.

Soon, a crackling fire was ignited on the sprawling lawn, flames dancing high against the darkening sky. As the warmth emanated from the fire, chairs were arranged in a circle, creating an intimate setting for the culinary spectacle about to unfold. The anticipation for the open-air barbecue was heightened by the backdrop of the river's gentle melody and the surrounding mountains. It was numbing cold outside and the flames felt good, the chill in the air was replaced by the growing warmth of the fire. Soon Khursheed bhai also joined us and got busy helping Nisar bhai in the preparations. Nisar bhai, our caretaker, was a seasoned individual with a past deeply rooted in the army as a chef, took charge of the proceedings. With military precision, he began preparing the chicken marinade, infusing it with flavors that mirrored the essence of the valley. Threaded onto skewers, the marinated chicken pieces awaited their turn over the crackling wood fire when the fire would become embers. Gathered around the bonfire, Nisar bhai regaled us with tales from his army days, weaving a narrative that had so many interesting tales - why he joined army, why he left, how was it cooking for the army men, how every personnel in army was trained in using arms and many such things. The crackling fire provided the perfect ambiance for his stories, creating a sense of camaraderie between this small group of people.

Once the flames subsided and the embers glowed like a rubies, the skewers laden with marinated chicken were expertly placed over the grill. The sizzle and aromatic embrace of grilling meat filled the air, tantalizing the senses. With a seasoned hand, Nisar Bhai brushed each skewer with a dash of ghee, ensuring a perfect balance of flavors and tenderness. As the chicken skewers reached perfection, the Reshwari Guest House became a haven of irresistible aromas. Nisar bhai served all four of us in the plates which were kept ready. That particular barbeque prepared by the army chef would beat any barbeque of the expensive city restaurants fair and square any day! The juices were oozing out of the perfectly grilled chicken and the seasoning and masalas were to die for! Against the backdrop of the mountainous landscape, bone chilling night air, the open-air barbecue not only delighted the palate but also became a cherished memory, blending the essence of the Bangus Valley with the warmth of good company and the savory allure of grilled delights.

Nisar Bhai & Khursheed bhai setting up the fire

The raging fire

Chicken Skewers being cooked to perfection on the grill

Fanning the fire with a plate to control the fire intensity

The ashes from the last night Barbeque

Gande te kokur | Kashmiri Style Chicken Curry - (Reshwari Guest House, Bangus Valley)

Being a non-vegetarian I have had my fair share of amazing chicken curries in my lifetime. So the obvious question would be what is so different about the Kashmiri variant. I also thought - it would be just another chicken curry. But my perception was about to get changed during my first visit to Kashmir. So when we were staying in Reshwari Guest house, the caretaker over there is an ex-Army cook, his name was Nisar. He along with his uncle manages the place. That day me and my mom were the only two residents in that big property, much later we had got to know that there was a rule by the management - if there are only ladies in the premise no other groups will be given booking if they are not a family. When evening came the place became pitch dark as electricity is a problem in this area. We were given a battery operated lamp to keep in the room. It was dark, it was raining, it was deserted and cold- basically it was a perfect recipe from any horror movie setting. On top of this, Nisar was a towering 6 feet person and he looked pretty scary himself in that sinister setting. When he came to call us for dinner, we were in half a mind whether we should leave the room or not! But hunger got the best of us and we made way to the ancient setup dinning room with a large table and a non operational fireplace. Dinner comprised of a very simple fare - steamed rice, mixed soupy vegetables and chicken curry. In that cold, everything tasted heavenly. But the chicken curry was simply mind-blowing - light, very flavorful curry and juicy succulent chicken. The flavors were like a mutton gravy, but I could feel that there was minimal onion and masalas. I was so in love with that curry that I asked Nisar for the recipe. He probably never expected anyone to ask him a recipe. But then he explained how he had made it and as expected there were only two spices - meat masala and fennel seed powder apart from tomato and onion. The key however was to fry the chicken in a certain way. After coming back to Pune I made the chicken curry quite a few times and every time it turned out awesome. So when in Kashmir, if you get a chance to try out food at a local's place ask for chicken curry.

Alu Paratha with Alu curry and Achar (Reshwari JKTDC Guest House, Bangus)

Whenever you travel anywhere north of India, you will find Alu Paratha to be a stable breakfast alternative offered in the hotel if you want a Indian breakfast. I didn't expect that Kashmir would also not be an exception here. Many places, especially in remote places we saw Alu Paratha was being served as the default breakfast option. So unless you asked for bread they would make you parathas and serve it with some kind of mixed pickle. if you are a Alu paratha lover you would agree that not all aloo parathas taste good. The alu filling needs to be well seasoned, the dough needs to be well rolled out and finally they need to be properly cooked till the core to make it perfect. All these nuances are hardly expected in a hotel where they are making parathas for 20-30 boarders at a time. But in homestays you can still expect a certain level of home like taste. When we were staying in Reshwari guest house, the day we were leaving for chandigam, for breakfast our in house care taker Nisar asked if he can make alu paratha for us. I was not too excited for it, but looking at the limited resources he was at his disposal we didn't have the heart to ask him for something else. by the time we came down to the dining hall, the scariness factor of previous night had ebbed away in the sunlight filtering in through the tall windows. We found Nisar bhai inside the kitchen. His uncle who goes away at night was back again. Uncle was a jolly good fellow with so many stories to share from his Army days. He was cracking jokes as he rolled out the Alu Parathas. In some time Khursheed bhai also joined us in the kitchen. Since we were the only boarders in the property at that time it felt as if we were a family and chit chatting in the kitchen like old times when there were no mobiles. Nisar bhai got busy in preparing tea for us in the large saucepan. The aroma of the milk tea along with the smell of parathas being fried made us really hungry. Soon breakfast was served along with garma garam chai. The parathas were so good, like ticking off all the checkboxes for a great Alu paratha - super crisp, the filling spread in every corner of the paratha and perfectly seasoned. Again we asked uncle what was the trick to make such amazing paratha. To which he said, he knead the dough with the filling so that it spreads uniformly while rolling out. We also used to follow same trick at our home, but still the way the filling was seasoned - spicy, buttery yet simple - it was something I doubt we can replicate ever. We had absolute zero complaints for food at the Reshwari guest house and I think we will always remember the hospitality extended to two single ladies by Nisar bhai and his uncle was really outstanding.

Crispy Alu Paratha for breakfast

Nisar Bhai making tea

The Dinning area

Dinning area and kitchen door

Uncle making Parathas

Kashmiri Haak Saag( Chandigam Guest House)

The first time we travelled to Kashmir was in May 2022. If you would have followed my blogs you would know already that for the very first visit, we chose to go offbeat destinations like Gurez, Bangus and Lolab circuit. Now back then these places had very few tourists so apart from Gurez the other two places had only one option each for stay which was the JKTDC government guest houses. And since there were hardly any tourists hence all these guest houses didn't get any funding for maintenance. Especially during the Covid outbreak these guesthouses served as the boarding places for the doctors and thus the state of guesthouses were left in a very sorry state due to the use or misuse. The saddest part was that the locations of both Chandigam (Lolab) and Reshwari (bangus) guesthouses were just stunning, with best views around but due to lack of maintenance the insides were ailing. And it was upon the caretakers of both these places to manage with the zero facilities and still take care of guests. But still they did take care of the guest in a very warm manner and this was possible only because of the nature of how Kashmiri people are - hospitality is ingrained into their culture. Now coming back to Kashmiri Haak. The caretaker, Hamid Bhai at Chandigam guest house was passionate cook. I am using the term passionate as during our two day stay we found him in the kitchen 90% of the time. He would cater to all food needs without any question but he was very cold towards any other issues happening in the rooms like flush not working, water dripping, power not there etc. My mom jokingly would say this guy is only dedicated to cooking, maybe he should try for MasterChef! But jokes apart, he was actually a whiz at cooking. We saw him getting vegetables from the market which looked wilted and overripe but when the dish was served it tasted magical. No one knew what he added to them. This was the first time we tasted Kashmiri Haak or Kashmiri saag. Haak is the Kashmiri equivalent of the term 'greens' or the Hindi 'saag'. They have monjji haak (cohlrabi greens), mujj haak (radish greens), vopal haak (dandelion greens), vast haak and maybe a few more which I am not aware. The haak saag prepared by Hamid Bhai was super delicious, it was even better than the chicken and we wiped the bowl clean and wanted more. We asked the recipe but he was not ready to give out the secret. A few things we could identify was the presence of Badiyan ( Badi Elaichi) and garlic apart from the distinct flavor of mustard oil and green chillies. There was no turmeric in it and spice level was very low. But the greens itself tasted beautiful, buttery and flavorful. If you are in Chandigam Guest house do ask the caretaker to make haak for you. The second best Haak saag we tasted at our driver Khursheed bhai's house. During our 3rd visit this year in June, the very first day Khursheed bhai took us to his home and his family treated us to a big vegetarian feast. I had especially requested for Haak, so his wife had prepared a lot for us. At the end of the meal, she even packed us 3-4 boxes with different subzis and haak saag. We had that for our dinner at our Gulmarg cottage same day and it felt like we were eating home cooked meal at a hotel. I had haak saag many a times during all 3 visits and I felt everywhere they make it slightly differently but the taste is superlative in every variant. Adhoos also has haak on its Wazwan platter which was very nice. So never miss the opportunity to try out authentic haak preparation while in Kashmir.

First Night Dinner @ Chandigam - Haak, Chicken Curry, Rajma, Mixed Veg

Second Night Dinner @ Chandigam - Haak, Chicken Curry, Yellow Pulao, Onion Chutney, Dum Aloo & Gobi Matar

The Dinning Hall of Chandigam Guest House

The Chandigam Guest House

The Chandigam Guest House

The Kitchen of the Guest House, the person in white is Hamid Bhai, the caretaker and chef

Hamid Bhai's cute son paid a visit

Fruit Chaat on Dal Lake (Srinagar , Dal Lake)

After finishing our offbeat route in Kashmir we stayed for a couple of days in Srinagar. Our first shikara ride experience was very good hence when we were staying in Srinagar on our way back, we again went for a morning ride. This time though it was mid morning and most of the shops were open and we could see the regular hustle bustle. The number of floating shops selling, tea, flowers, jewelries etc. were also more compared to the last time. It felt warm under the sun though sitting inside the canopied shikara was soothing. The morning tranquility was punctuated by the occasional ripple, as the Shikara navigates through floating gardens and ornate houseboats, all set against the breathtaking backdrop of snow-capped Zabarwan mountains.

We were in no mood to shop but rather enjoying a peaceful ride was the only agenda. When we came around the bend of Meena Bazar, the main market area in Dal Lake, a Fruit Chat seller stopped us on the water. He had a number of fresh fruits lined up on his boat so that his potential customers are tempted to try some. i am not much of a fruit person so it didn't interest me but my mother instantly wanted to try it out. He asked our preference for fruits and made a quick serving. It was mango time in Srinagar so he graciously topped of the chat with mango pieces. he did ask me before leaving whether I would like a plate for myself as well but I replied in the negative. But I soon wished I had not, when I tasted the mango. It was very juicy and sweet. The overall fruit chat was a refreshing mix of seasonal fruits with a sprinkle of chaat masala for a hint of spice. I think during the day if you are going for a shikara ride, enjoying a fresh plate of this fruit chat would be the best snacks onboard, while you enjoy the ride. We did look out for the fruit chat seller on our way back around the water alleys, but he was no where to be found.