If there's one dish that can make any Bengali's heart skip a beat, it's Ilish Mach Bhaja. The mere mention of it evokes a wave of nostalgia, reminding us of home, family gatherings, and the monsoon rains tapping against the windows. Ilish, or Hilsa, isn't just a fish; it's a sentiment deeply ingrained in Bengali culture. And when it comes to Ilish Mach Bhaja, it's more than just a dish—it's an experience.

Growing up, the first heavy downpour of the season was always met with a buzz of excitement at home. The rain meant that the Ilish season was officially upon us, and soon the markets would be brimming with fresh, glistening Hilsa. The weekend morning would start with a trip to the local fish market, where my father would haggle with the fishmonger to get the freshest Ilish and other fishes.

Not every Hilsa makes the cut for that perfect Ilish Mach Bhaja. There are certain nuances that every Bengali knows, passed down through stories and experiences. A good Hilsa has to be just the right size—not too small, not too big, but just enough to give you those luscious cuts with that perfect marbling of fat. Yes, fat—because a good Hilsa is oily, and that’s where half the flavor comes from.

As a kid, I would sit around the kitchen, impatiently waiting for that moment when the first piece of Ilish would hit the hot mustard oil in the pan. The aroma would fill the entire house, making it impossible to wait until lunch. 

The Art of Frying Ilish

Making Ilish Mach Bhaja isn't just about tossing the fish into the pan and hoping for the best. There's a certain finesse to it, a delicate balance that needs to be achieved to get that perfect golden crust while keeping the fish tender and juicy inside.

First, the fish is marinated lightly with turmeric and salt, allowing the natural flavors to shine through. Mustard oil is a must here—no other oil can give you that sharp, pungent flavor that complements the richness of the Ilish. The oil is heated until it's just shy of smoking, and then the fish is gently lowered into the pan. The key is to resist the urge to flip the fish too soon. Let it develop that beautiful crust before turning it over. And once it's done, you let it rest for a minute, allowing the oil to drain off, and then you're ready to dig in.

View from my home in rains

Rains, Ilish & a Sense of Comfort

There’s something almost poetic about enjoying Ilish Mach Bhaja on a rainy day. The pitter-patter of raindrops, the cool breeze that carries the smell of wet earth, and the sizzle of Hilsa frying in mustard oil—all these elements come together to create an experience that’s nothing short of magical.

Rainy days are also when Ilish tastes the best. Some say it’s the freshness of the fish, others say it’s the chill in the air, but I believe it’s the nostalgia. It’s the memories of sitting by the window, watching the rain, while the aroma of frying Ilish wafts through the house. It’s the stories shared around the dining table, the laughter, the love, and the sense of togetherness that make the experience complete.

For many Bengalis, the monsoon isn’t just a season—it’s a ritual, and at the heart of that ritual is Ilish Mach Bhaja. It’s comfort food in its truest sense, a dish that warms you from the inside out. The crispy, golden exterior of the fish contrasts beautifully with the soft, delicate flesh inside, creating a texture that’s as comforting as it is satisfying.

On those rainy afternoons, when the world outside is a blur of grey and green, there’s nothing better than sitting down to a plate of steaming hot rice, a piece of perfectly fried Ilish, and maybe a drizzle of ghee. Add a side of mashed potatoes or some mustard greens, and you’ve got yourself a meal that’s simple yet profoundly fulfilling.

The First Bite: A Symphony of Flavors

There’s something almost magical about the first bite of Ilish Mach Bhaja. The crisp exterior gives way to the tender, flaky flesh inside. The flavor is rich, with a slight bitterness from the mustard oil that perfectly complements the sweetness of the fish. And then there’s the subtle heat from the turmeric, which rounds out the dish beautifully.

Pair it with some hot, steaming rice and a drizzle of ghee, and you have a meal that’s nothing short of divine. It's the kind of food that makes you close your eyes and sigh with contentment.

For me, Ilish Mach Bhaja is more than just a dish. It's a connection to my roots, a bond with my past. Every time I make it, I’m transported back to those lazy Sunday afternoons, the sound of the rain outside, and the warmth of my family around the dining table. It’s a dish that tells a story—a story of tradition, of love, and of the simple joys of life.

So, if you ever get the chance to taste Ilish Mach Bhaja, take a moment to savor it—not just the flavors, but the history and the emotions that come with it. Trust me, it’s an experience you won’t forget.

The art of slowing down with Ilish

In a world that’s always rushing, the ritual of preparing and enjoying Ilish Mach Bhaja during the monsoon is a reminder to slow down. It’s about taking the time to appreciate the little things—the smell of rain, the taste of fresh fish, the company of loved ones. It’s about celebrating the moment, the season, and the traditions that make us who we are.

So the next time it rains, and you find yourself craving something special, think of Ilish Mach Bhaja. Whether you’re a seasoned Ilish lover or someone trying it for the first time, let the rain and the fish create a moment of joy and connection, just as they have for countless generations before. Because, after all, there’s nothing quite like the taste of Ilish on a rainy day.

1. Cut and wash the hilsa pieces, pat dry
2. Now marinate the fish with salt, turmeric powder and 1 tsp mustard oil for about 30 minutes.
3. Heat mustard oil in a pan, when the oil is smoking carefully slide in the marinated fish pieces. Fry evenly till the edges turn slightly brown and crispy. Flip over the fish and repeat. 
4. Don't throw away the leftover oil in the pan, because that oil has a lot of flavor from the fish. You can pour it over steamed rice and have it along with the fish for the best flavors. 

Serve it with steamed rice, the leftover mustard oil from frying the hilsa fish, some fried green chilis, mash everything and enjoy. That's the most traditional way of enjoying a hilsa fish fry. You can also pair it with mashed potato and dal if you want.

It is only mid of April and the temperature in Pune is soaring like crazy. last week however there was some mild relief from the heat due to thundershowers. The beauty of Pune is that once it rains, the mercury plunges quite a bit so even during intense heat spells these occasional rains are giving us the much needed respite. I think all over India it is almost the same situation. Today morning itself i read a news update which said a Doordarshan news anchor fainted during a live telecast due to the heatwave. It happened because of some technical snag the temperature controls were not working in the studio and due to the intense heat her blood pressure plummeted suddenly. I can resonate with the situation, because I have seen such situations in which the ac malfunctioned inside a closed room and the heat and suffocation was worse than being out in the sun where you at least have natural air.

We are trying to be as much hydrated as possible when we are at home or while going out during the afternoon. Also I usually keep a water bowl on the terrace for bigger birds and a small hanging water bowl for smaller ones. Both are earthen bowls which helps keep the water cold. I have seen birds enjoying a good bath in the morning or having a drink throughout the day. I would request everyone to have at least some sort of water bowl in front of their homes or balconies. It will help street animals or birds to be hydrated during these harsh summer days. 

When it comes to food, due to the heat I don't feel like eating much especially during the afternoons. I know many people might feel this way. Like always, the summer months call for such foods which are light on the stomach, mildly spiced, mostly of soupy consistency which is easy to digest. More than a lot of oily and spicy non-veg dishes, I crave for simple old school preparations with seasonal vegetables. 

It is an age old traditional in Bengali cuisine to start the meal with something bitter or teto. The bitter taste cleanses the palate, aids digestion, and makes subsequent courses taste better. The bitter greens, such as hinche, kalmi, thankuni, and neem, also have medicinal properties. The tradition of eating bitter dishes at the start of a meal is rooted in ancient Ayurvedic dietary practices and medicinal value. The bitter dishes are eaten throughout the year, especially in late spring and early summer to ward off diseases like measles and chickenpox. And just because of that as a kid we were always advised / forced to have bitter dishes like neem pata bhaja or ucche bhaja during the summers. Obviously I hated it back then. But as I grew my palate for bitter also evolved and slowly I took a great liking for bitter dishes like shukto or fish curry with bitter gourd etc.

Shukto is one of the most iconic dishes of the Bengali kitchen is a distinctly bitter stew made with a medley of seasonal vegetable. Shukto can be made with so many different variations just by changing the vegetables in the dish. I have a couple of shukto dishes already in my blog including one with Hilsa. 

This time however its not a traditional shukto but a fusion of neem jhol and shukto. Neem leaves are known for their medicinal properties. And they are also tasty when used in the recipe in the right way. A small amount goes a long way in enhancing the flavor and taste.  You can also say this recipe is an easier version having all the earthiness of Shukto but with less hassles. So if you want to try out a simpler version of Shukto, do give this dish a try.

Preparation Time : 15 minutes 

Ingredients :

• Raw Papaya/ Kacha Pepe - 500 gm
• Potato / Aloo - 2 medium
• Drumstick - 3 whole 
• Neem Leaves - 3 sprigs
• Bori (sundried lentil dumplings) -10 
• Black Cumin / Kalo Jeera / Kalonji - 1/2 tsp
• Ginger - 1 tsp grated
• Milk - 1 cup
• Salt - as per taste 
• Sugar - 3 tsp or more as per taste
• Water - as needed
• Mustard Oil - for tempering

Procedure :

1. Wash and dry the neem leaves a day before. Take out the leaves from the sprig. Now heat a kadai, add 1 tsp of mustard oil, when oil is smoking add the neem leaves, fry on medium heat for 2 minutes till they turn crisp. take care not to burn the leaves. Take out the leaves into a plate and let it cool.  

2. In the same oil, fry the boris till they take a light brown hue all around. Take them out in the same plate and let them cool down.

3. Take out the string from the drumsticks and cut into 3-4 cm long pieces. Peel the skin and cut the potato into long segments of same size and shape. Peel the raw papaya and slice them into small half moon shapes, about 5-mm thick. 

4. Boil water in a saucepan, once the water is boiling add 1 tsp of salt and drop the cut papaya pieces. Cover and cook for about 7-8 minutes. Drain the water and keep the papaya to cool down.

5. Take a pressure cooker, add a cup of water and add the drumstick pieces. Add a pinch of salt. Cook these for two whistles and immediately open the cooker lid by placing the cooker under running tap water to release the pressure inside. This way the drumstick will retain its green color. Drain the water and keep the drumstick aside. Preserve the water.

6. Now in a kadai heat mustard oil. When the oil is hot, add kalo jeera or Kalonji.  Add the potato pieces and some salt. Fry on medium heat for about 5-6 minutes turning them frequently till they are 80% done.

7. Now make some space in the kadai and add a little more oil, once its hot add 1/2 of the grated ginger. fry for a few seconds and mix with the potato. Now add the boiled drumstick and boiled papaya. fold in nicely.

8. Adjust the salt and sugar at this stage. It should be a little sweet so add accordingly. Add the remaining 1/2 of the grated ginger fold in and cook for 2-3 minutes.

9. Heat the milk slightly, this will prevent it from getting split when added to the subzi. Now add the milk in the kadai and give everything a nice mix. Add the preserved water from boiling the drumstick to increase the gravy. I prefer this to be a little soupy as it goes well with plain rice.

10. Lightly crush the fried neem leaves and add to the kadai. 

11. Break the boris and sprinkle it in the kadai. Now finish off the dish by adding half a teaspoon of ghee and mix well. Keep it covered for a few minutes for the smell of the ghee to spread inside.

Serve it with steamed rice on a hot summer afternoon. 

Other Vegetarian Recipes for Summer:

• Lauer Khosha Bhaja | Bottle Gourd Peel Stir Fry
• Potol Shorshe Posto Aam diye | Pointed gourd in mustard & poppy seed paste with raw mango
• Bengali Shukto
• Potol Aloo Posto | Pointed Gourd & Potato in Poppy seed paste
• Doi Potol | Pointed Gourd in Yoghurt gravy
• Lau Palong | Bottle Gourd & Spinach Medley
• Jhinge Aloo Posto | Ridge Gourd & Potato in Poppy seed paste
• Beet Greens
• Tetor Daal | Moong Dal with Bitter Gourd

এটা আমার প্রথম বাংলায় ব্লগ লেখার চেষ্টা, তাই বানান বা ব্যাকরণ এ কিছু ত্রুটি দেখতে পেলে মার্জনা করে দেবেন সবাই। অনেক কাল থেকে নিজের ঘোড়ার গল্প গুলো বাংলায় লিখতে ইচ্ছে করে কিন্তু বাংলায় লেখাটা ইংরেজি তে লেখার চেয়ে বেশি খটোমটো এই ইংরিজি কিবোর্ডে। তাই আর করবো করছি করেও লেখা হয়ে ওঠেনি। কিন্তু শেষ মেশ একটা চেষ্টা করেই ফেললাম। এতো কিছু লেখার আছে যে প্রথম কিস্তি টা শুধু মাত্র কিছু দরকারি ইনফরমেশন শেয়ার করলাম। পরের কিস্তি গুলোতে ঘোরার ডিটেলস গুলো বলবো।

----------------------

#Kashmir #offbeatkashmir

Other blogs in the Kashmir series:

1. Is Kashmir safe for travelers?
2. What to pack for Kashmir in May -June ( for Gurez- bangus - Lolab circuit)
3. Kashmir Diaries - Day 1 : Pune to Srinagar | Nishat Bagh
4. Kashmir Diaries -Day 2: Srinagar to Gurez| Razdan Pass | Krishnaganga 
5. Kashmir Dairies - Day 3 : Walking around Gurez Village
6. My Top Favorite Foods From Kashmir - Part 1
7. Bengali Blog - Offbeat Kashmir (May 2022) - পুনে থেকে শ্রীনগর  

 

In this recipe I have used the stems of the red saag which is known as Lal Shaak in Bengal and Red Amaranth in Maharashtra. The leaves are usually used to make a dry subzi and the stems are discarded here in Pune.  In Bengal however the thick stems of this Red saag is used for making dals and data chorchori. Thick stems have more flesh in them which makes it enjoyable to chew them. In today's recipe I have used the tender stems of the saag which my maid discarded after cleaning the saag. My maid at times questions my sanity when she sees me cooking with all these waste items. But when the final dish tastes and looks stellar she has to eventually agree that all these wastes pack a punch and can be actually made into nutritious and delicious recipes. 

Since tender stems are used, I made sure to take off any hard skin from the stems. Its very easy to remove them. Just cut the stems halfway through, you will see threadlike skins coming out, then pull the cut stems down which will also pull out teh threadlike skin with it. Keep repeating until you have all the hard skin peeled off. This is also needed as Lal saag stems tend to be a little hard and they don't soak up the seasoning from the dal. Removing the skin helps them absorb all the seasoning. 

Now you might be wondering, the title says Red Saag Stems so why are the stems in the picture looking green? There is a scientific justification to this. Red vegetables lose their color when cooked because the pigments that cause the color, called anthocyanins, dissolve in water and leach into the cooking water causing color fading. Same is the case here, the color leached into the water in which it was boiled and the stems became green! Another surprising thing was, I did add the red color water into the dal when I boiled it but that did not make the dal red. Which means unlike Beetroot whose color is more pigmented and makes everything red, the Amamranth doesn't impart such a pigmented after effect. You can also make the same recipe with green Amaranth stems as well. The recipe is very earthy and pairs well with steamed rice and any vegetable on the side - perfect for hot summer afternoons.

Preparation Time : 15 minutes 

Ingredients :

• Masoor Dal - 250 gm
• Amaranth Leaves Stem - 50 to 100 gm 
• Radhuni / Celery Seeds - 1 tsp
• Green Chili - 2 (Slitted)
• Red Dry Chili - 2 ( broken)
• Bay Leaf - 2
• Turmeric - 1/2 tsp
• Mustard Oil - 2 tbsp
• Water - As needed ( 2 cups or more as per consistency)
• Salt - To Taste

Procedure :

1. Wash and rinse the masoor dal until all impurities are gone. Let it soak for about 30-40 minutes in some water. This will help in easily cooking the dal.

2. Meanwhile prep the stems. Cut the stems halfway through, you will see threadlike skins coming out, then pull the cut stems down which will also pull out the threadlike skin with it. Keep repeating until you have all the hard skin peeled off. This is also needed as Lal saag stems tend to be a little hard and they don't soak up the seasoning from the dal. Removing the skin helps them absorb all the seasoning. Cut all the stems into 2 inch pieces. Now wash the stems and keep it aside.

3. Now take a pressure cooker and put the washed stems inside. Add about 2-3 cups of water and 1/4th tsp of salt. Close the lid and cook it for a couple of whistles. Then immediately open the lid by placing the closed pressure cooker under running water and helping in the pressure inside to subside. Take out the boiled stems and keep the water ( red color) aside.

Tip: The key to making dals with vegetables is to have the vegetable stock cook with the dal. But if you boil the dal and the soft veggies together, the vegetables might disintegrate. So the tip is to cook them separately one by one. First the veggies, then use the veggie stock to cook the dal so that all the nutrients and taste remains in the dal as well.

4. Now take the soaked dal and add the red water from the steams boiled in Step 3. Top up with more water if needed, we only need to keep the water level as much in the pressure cooker to just submerge the dal. This ensures when the whistles start coming excess water is not flowing out.  Cook for a couple of whistles, and then let the pressure cooker stand till the pressure inside dies down naturally. 

5. Now open the pressure cooker lid and while the dal is still hot, using a ladle give everything a nice whisk for a couple of minutes so as to break down the dal into a uniform thick texture. Note that this makes the dal more tasty.

6. Now take a kadai and heat mustard oil. Once the pungent smell of mustard oil is gone and the oil is smoking temper it with bay leaves, radhuni and dry red chilies. Sauté it for a few seconds till you get the aroma of the spices. Now add the boiled stems from step 3. Sauté it for a few more minutes. Now add the whisked dal and fold in. Add salt, turmeric and slitted green chilies. mix everything well and cover the kadai. 

Tip : In case you dont have radhuni handy, you can replace it with Kalo Jire or kalonji or even the regular cumin.

7. Let it cook for about 3-4 minutes or until the dal comes to a rolling boil. Now drizzle some mustard oil on top and switch off the flame. Let is sit covered for the aroma of the mustard oil to incorporate with the dal.

Serve it with steamed rice and a choice of vegetables in the side. 

Other 'Best of Waste Recipes':

• Lau er Khosha Bhaja
• Beetroot Greens
• Kach Kolar Khosha Bata